MtnMan Loc: ID

Hi,

If you right click on the jpeg file from your camera and open the properties you'll find the exposure information. Look on the "details" tab and scroll down.

It doesn't necessarily carry over if you process the image in a program and resave it.

If you upload the one from your camera and click on the "store original" that information will come along with it.

Regards,
Larry Leach

stchncandy

your photos are very nice like a Pro.

JimH Loc: Western South Jersey, USA

What does he do for the magazine, deliver it?...I guess we know now how much weight to give his advice, eh?

Here it is in a nutshell:

1) in "Auto" mode, your camera focused on the big bright leaf in the tree directly in front of you.

2) it set the f/stop, or aperture, to f/4, which is fairly wide, but not real wide. This caused you to have a narrow depth of field, meaning your people were out of focus as they were closer to you than the leaf was.

3) Not sure why it set the ISO to 800, must have been fairly low light - do you remember if the flash went off? Usually, if the flash pops up, the camera doesn't monkey with the ISO setting. Had nothing to do with focus, anyway.

4) AUTO mode is troublesome, because the camera can not know WHAT you're trying to shoot - all it can know is "WHAT ARE THE CONDITIONS UNDER WHICH I SHOOT"

Quick Answer: Next time you shoot two people next to each other, focus on ONE of them, press the shutter half-way down to freeze things, then move the camera to show both people, and finish the shot.

MtnMan Loc: ID

True enough for the M on the exposure dial.

With Nikons anyway the "M" on the lens is for manual focus. "A" turns on the autofocus.

I was pleased to see Ken Rockwell point out in his D5100 tutorial that one needed to turn that on on many (most, all?) Nikon lenses to have autofocus. I suspect some of the problems reported to UHH by people having problems with focus on new Nikon cameras comes from not turning the lens on. It isn't obvious to people (like me) with many tens of years of cameras that didn't need a lens turned on. To make matters twice as complicated the Nikons also have the switch for image stabilization (VR) on the lens.

Regards,
Larry Leach

evans2ann Loc: Mississippi

Thanks. I did go back and take a similar picture myself and it WAS better....but I made SURE that I had it on face priority which I'm not sure was before. There were overhead lights on but not very bright. You all have helped me very much.

JohnnyRottenNJ Loc: Northern New Jersey

I'd be willing to bet that you have the AF set on a single point. The floral arrangement is much sharper than the couple standing in front of it. But if you'll notice, the arrangement is dead center, right where the focus point is.

Also, Never say Never when it comes to cameras and lenses. The lens you have is a good starter, but if you decide to grow into other areas, you will want other lenses to accommodate your taste.

I started out with a Nikon D200, traded it in when the D300 came out because of the higher ISO ratings and was very happy. I had to send the D300 in for a repair but needed a camera in the interim, so I purchased a D7000 body. I love both cameras for different projects. But I have (mostly Tamron lenses,) an 18-270mm, a 70-300 Nikon (I use for sports) a 70-200mm f2.8 Tamron that I use for low light, concerts, etc. a 17-50mm f2.8 for low light (close up,) a 60mm F2 macro and a 200-500mm for sports when I'm up in the press box. So don't tell me one lens can do it all. LOL

evans2ann Loc: Mississippi

You have quite a collection of glass. Can't afford that but what would you say is a good lens for portraits?

JohnnyRottenNJ Loc: Northern New Jersey

I have a Tamron 60mm f2 macro that I use for portraits. I have been quite happy with it. My biggest problem is transporting all of these lenses around. More than once, I forgot to bring my 60mm when I knew I was going to shoot some portraits. My 18-270mm has had to do double duty in that respect, but then again, I'm not a professional. I give away most of my pics. If I give you a photo and you complain, my pat answer is "Well the price was right, wasn't it?"

pdwoodswood Loc: Lewisville, NC

Same in Canon

Dryart38 Loc: Carlsbad, NM

First of all, a tripod is cumbersome to use unless you're shooting interiors or in a portrait studio - your problem is not a movement problem. I'm not familiar with all the workings in DSLR'S, but, I'd switch to an average focus for the over-all frame. You must press your shutter button only half-way down, giving the camera a chance to focus and focus on one person or the other - it looks like you made the photo with one straight push, and the camera focused on the item with the most contrast, the white leaf. Hope this helps!

Adirondack Hiker Loc: Southern Adirondacks

Tripod is cumbersome???? WRONG My tripod weighs in at over 7 pounds, I would not think of going on a 5 mile hike without it. To get a sharp image, you must use a tripod. To further reduce bounce, I use a remote instead of pushing the shutter button.

Dryart38 Loc: Carlsbad, NM

AH: When you're inside at a party or other event where you're shooting several couples, and not in a studio, a tripod will get in the way more than handholding the camera. On a hike it's different - you've got plenty of room to place it. I've used a tripod a lot when I shot new samples of houses for builders for newspaper reproduction, and very defintely in a studio for portraits or still lifes. Also, the problem wasn't movement, it was a focus problem with something in the camera or a wrong setting.
I envy you having great feet - I can't walk more than a couple hundred feet without being in misery!