Testing Exposure Meter: Has anyone tested the accuracy of their exposure meter? I just preformed a test using Winston Hall/Tuner Photography procedures. He is a Nikonian presenter.

Jim S Loc: Barrington RI, DC now Hilton Head,

Has anyone tested the accuracy of their exposure meter?

I just preformed a test using Winston Hall/Tuner Photography procedures. He is a Nikonian presenter.

Using LightRoom 4 Histograms here is what I came up with:
Matrix Metering - compensation of +.7
Center Weighted - Compensation +1.0
Spot Metering - Compensation +.7

This was done with an 18% grey card, shooting in shadow, using aperture priority.

Camera is a Nikon D800E.

Do these numbers seem correct? Am I reading the histograms right.

If I post the shots that seem correct what size do I need to change them to?

Thanks

Radioman Loc: Ontario Canada

Jim S wrote:

Has anyone tested the accuracy of their exposure m... (show quote)

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"Has anyone tested the accuracy of their exposure meter?"

From what you are describing, I think you are asking the wrong question:

Testing the accuracy of an exposure/light meter requires a 'standard' light source, or a 'standard' light meter to compare readings.

Jim S Loc: Barrington RI, DC now Hilton Head,

Not according to Winston Hall. You can use a light meter but you also can use studio lighting as well a out in shadows.

If you go to Tuner Photography you can find the testing procedures.

Radioman wrote:

*********
"Has anyone tested the accuracy of their exposure meter?"

From what you are describing, I think you are asking the wrong question:

Testing the accuracy of an exposure/light meter requires a 'standard' light source, or a 'standard' light meter to compare readings.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Jim S wrote:

Has anyone tested the accuracy of their exposure m... (show quote)

Do you actually mean:

"has anyone adjusted their meter to match their camera's particular exposure performance to arrive at a "0" exposure when brought into LR?"

Jim S Loc: Barrington RI, DC now Hilton Head,

That is it

rpavich wrote:

Do you actually mean:

"has anyone adjusted their meter to match their camera's particular exposure performance to arrive at a "0" exposure when brought into LR?"

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Jim S wrote:

That is it

Yes, I have.

Jim S Loc: Barrington RI, DC now Hilton Head,

I did a second test with a brighter sun but I was in the shadow of my garage and all comps came in at +.7. I then did some test shots and I like vivid @ -.3 to -.7 best of all.

Not sure which way I should go??

rpavich wrote:

Yes, I have.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Jim S wrote:

I did a second test with a brighter sun but I was in the shadow of my garage and all comps came in at +.7. I then did some test shots and I like vivid @ -.3 to -.7 best of all.

Not sure which way I should go??

The ONLY way to make this consistent is to have flash power be the ONLY source of light and to do it many times to eliminate the error of flash inconsistency.

Jim S Loc: Barrington RI, DC now Hilton Head,

rpavich wrote:

The ONLY way to make this consistent is to have flash power be the ONLY source of light and to do it many times to eliminate the error of flash inconsistency.

Thanks

rebride

Good to see someone testing their light meter.
Coordinating what the meter is saying, the camera is doing and editing see it.
I would think all metering modes, if card fills the whole frame should read the same or close to it. Yours did.

winterrose Loc: Kyneton, Victoria, Australia

Jim S wrote:

Has anyone tested the accuracy of their exposure m... (show quote)

Do a number of test shots and determine a substandard exposure setting then in b6 set that compensation as a default for each exposure mode. Cheers, Rob.

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

Here's what I do:

Calibrate your camera for exposure.

The starting point is to find out how your camera's meter reads exposure. I know mine overexposes by 0.3 to 0.7 EV, depending on lighting, so I set exposure compensation for -0.3. To check this:

With camera on tripod, matrix metering ,exposure compensation at 0-0 and a scene with average tones:

set Exposure compensation (+/-) at +1 take a shot

Now in 1/3 (0.3) increments adjust exposure compensation and take a shot, all the way to -1, giving you seven images.

load these into imaging programme and select the image with best detail in shadows and highlights.

This setting will be your standard, set this on your camera, and you will never need to do this again - your camera will be calibrated for optimum exposure.
This is baseline, so if shot looks too dark or light, in certain conditions, just adjust (+/-) to suit.

winterrose Loc: Kyneton, Victoria, Australia

nekon wrote:

Here's what I do: br br Calibrate your camera for... (show quote)

Thank you nekon for expanding or elaborating on my reply. I wasn't sure how detailed the OP required the explanation of making a default substandard setting to be.

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

winterrose wrote:

Thank you nekon for expanding or elaborating on my reply. I wasn't sure how detailed the OP required the explanation of making a default substandard setting to be.

No problem-anything to help a newbie

ole sarg Loc: south florida

My question is can anyone tell the difference?

That aside, the first thing I would do is go to the eye doc and have my eyes checked. After all, that is the meter you are judging against.

Second, because one is talking about such minute changes, I would suggest one test the meter before each shot. After all, the meer jostling of the camera can affect the accuracy of the meter.

Additionally, bright can be brighter and shadow darker. Thus, one would have to adjust the meter again to compensate. I think that is why there is that ev thingy on the camera.