Seems like when I have my Circular Polarizer on my 55-300mm lens I can't seem to get a clear shot. Went out yesterday and forgot if it was on my lens took 93 captures and basically had to toss them all for lack of clarity. I have posted a few for analyzing, it was overcast and rainy at times plus glare from the haze. What are your thoughts? All of them looked like these, must be the filter.
Possibly too slower shutter speed, coupled with hand held???
dannyp59 wrote:
Seems like when I have my Circular Polarizer on my 55-300mm lens I can't seem to get a clear shot. Went out yesterday and forgot if it was on my lens took 93 captures and basically had to toss them all for lack of clarity. I have posted a few for analyzing, it was overcast and rainy at times plus glare from the haze. What are your thoughts? All of them looked like these, must be the filter.
The first has little contrast between the subject and the background and the last was shot into the sun.
The second the photo reads: Nikon D3200, f/5.6, 1/250sec, ISO-200 Focal Length 300mm (35mm focal length 450), Metering Mode Pattern, No Flash. The bird is out of focus.
If I were to guess you are hand holding the camera. The rule here is to shoot at least as fast as your focal length. 1/250 is too slow for 450mm.
Other things to consider are your position to the subject where CPLs work best 90 degrees to Sun. CPLs can remove 1.0 to 2.5 stops of light and depending on quality can vary the image.
Shoot at 1/500 sec and see if that helps.
St3v3M wrote:
The first has little contrast between the subject and the background and the last was shot into the sun.
The second the photo reads: Nikon D3200, f/5.6, 1/250sec, ISO-200 Focal Length 300mm (35mm focal length 450), Metering Mode Pattern, No Flash. The bird is out of focus.
If I were to guess you are hand holding the camera. The rule here is to shoot at least as fast as your focal length. 1/250 is too slow for 450mm.
Other things to consider are your position to the subject where CPLs work best 90 degrees to Sun. CPLs can remove 1.0 to 2.5 stops of light and depending on quality can vary the image.
Shoot at 1/500 sec and see if that helps.
The first has little contrast between the subject ... (
show quote)
Don't know if you have seen any of my posts, I have not had any troubles getting clear crisp shots because I don't use the CPL, my setting was a sport mode hand held, auto ISO, seems the CPL knocks this setting wacky every time I forget it is on the lens. I have taken many at this light angle before with no problem. I will just have to leave the CPL at home. Normally at this setting I get f/7.1, 1/1600, ISO 400
dannyp59 wrote:
Don't know if you have seen any of my posts, I have not had any troubles getting clear crisp shots because I don't use the CPL, my setting was a sport mode hand held, auto ISO, seems the CPL knocks this setting wacky every time I forget it is on the lens. I have taken many at this light angle before with no problem. I will just have to leave the CPL at home.
The CPL changes the light so you have to change your settings with it.
I seldom have a problem when I use a quality CPL. With a poor quality one, such as a Quantinary, two pieces of low quality glass always gave me a poor quality image. The best thing that ever happened to my photography was when my Quantinary rolled off my lens into a river.
This may not be your problem, but it is worth considering.
I looked at the eagle shot and it is 1/1600 @ f/6.3 so I doubt it is camera shake, or lack of depth of field. My first thought is cheap glass in the CPL.
A close look at the eagle indicate no motion blur either. If you are getting good images without the CPL, either forget using one or get a good one. Get a B+W and spend around $60-$70.
Get if from someplace like B&H where you can try it out and return it if your images do not improve.
steve40
Loc: Asheville/Canton, NC, USA
Well we might start with 300mm, ISO 100, shutter 1/60. I really don't care how good your stabilizing is, it ain't that good. Up your ISO, so you can get a shutter speed close to 1/300; or preferably better.
I think! that would probably, solve your problem.
in my case it has to do with using the Auto focus. Use the manual and see if this helps!
This is a longshot, but are you SURE you have a Circular Polarizer? The older Linear types mess with the AF system.
in my ideas, it's because you're capturing moving things, and I usually enhance photos with post production. since my equipment is not that high level.... and I'm barely not a professional...
It would appear you were shooting at 300mm. Long focal lengths is where suspect filters become apparent ! Also, if it were overcast - as you say - at ISO 400 - your shutterspeed should have been around 1/400 at F6.3 or 5.6 before subtracting 2 stops for the PL - leaving 1/100 at F6.3 !
CaptainC wrote:
This is a longshot, but are you SURE you have a Circular Polarizer? The older Linear types mess with the AF system.
It is a Rocketfish Circular Polarizer
dannyp59 wrote:
It is a Rocketfish Circular Polarizer
OK - That rules out one possibility.
imagemeister wrote:
It would appear you were shooting at 300mm. Long focal lengths is where suspect filters become apparent ! Also, if it were overcast - as you say - at ISO 400 - your shutterspeed should have been around 1/400 at F6.3 or 5.6 before subtracting 2 stops for the PL - leaving 1/100 at F6.3 !
I will have to let this go now I have determined that I will not use it on BIF shots anymore. Thank all of you for the discussions.
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