Need help/advice
May 15, 2013 11:43:49 #
I often just sit on my porch with my camera near by and simply take pics of birds. Often, I don't have much time to make many changes of the settings. I just grab the camera and just shoot. In such situations should I just shoot on straight automatic? AV/auto? What is your advice?
This photo was shot using evaluative metering, ISO 200, f/8, 1/15 using Canon 70-300mm lens. I often get this effect; one object is in focus (close enough) and one of the objects is out of focus. How can I avoid this? Use spot metering? Different
f stop/automatic?
I look forward to your advice/help.
This photo was shot using evaluative metering, ISO 200, f/8, 1/15 using Canon 70-300mm lens. I often get this effect; one object is in focus (close enough) and one of the objects is out of focus. How can I avoid this? Use spot metering? Different
f stop/automatic?
I look forward to your advice/help.
May 15, 2013 11:50:19 #
1/15 second is not enough time to stop action if the bird moves. Try using shutter priority: set shutter speed for at least 1/500 second to help with blur from hand-holding that lens, as well as to better stop motion blur if the bird moves. If in shade, set ISO higher too. Try at least 400, maybe even 800.
May 15, 2013 11:56:05 #
As Linda said, your shutter speed is way too slow to handhold, at any focal length. 8-)
May 15, 2013 13:35:03 #
rmpinkard wrote:
I often get this effect; one object is in focus (close enough) and one of the objects is out of focus. How can I avoid this? Use spot metering? Different f stop/automatic?
Picking up on your original question, it's a depth of field issue, and the answer would be to use a higher f-stop to get more of the scene in focus. However, looking at your settings, I'm not sure what else you can adjust to keep the exposure right if you increase the f-stop. Especially since you would definitely want to increase shutter speed, not decrease it. That leaves the ISO, so it looks like your ISO would have to be as high as the noise levels (graininess) allow.
On a more practical level, you could do something to encourage the birds to sit in brighter parts of the garden. The more light they are getting, the easier it will be to get acceptable settings.
May 15, 2013 13:49:16 #
May 15, 2013 14:57:51 #
What camera are you using. Many modern DSLR cameras can now shoot at relatively high ISO with a lot less noise. Perhaps you can try an ISO of 800 and see how it looks. That will increase your shutter speed considerably. With high ISO, try not to underexpose.
May 15, 2013 15:25:53 #
Keep in mind that to get two subjects, at different distances, completely sharp when using a long focal length can be difficult. This Depth of Field Calculator will illustrate this.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
At long focal lengths, it may be easier to concentrate on one subject to get sharp, or use the secondary subjects blur to your advantage.
In any event, you must use a higher shutter speed when you hand hold, or you will have camera shake blur in addition to subject movement blur. 8-)
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
At long focal lengths, it may be easier to concentrate on one subject to get sharp, or use the secondary subjects blur to your advantage.
In any event, you must use a higher shutter speed when you hand hold, or you will have camera shake blur in addition to subject movement blur. 8-)
May 15, 2013 15:35:20 #
gym wrote:
What camera are you using. Many modern DSLR cameras can now shoot at relatively high ISO with a lot less noise. Perhaps you can try an ISO of 800 and see how it looks. That will increase your shutter speed considerably. With high ISO, try not to underexpose.
I use a Canon T1i. In my first camera class, I was told to always shoot on the lowest setting possible and I am always too cautious
to shoot to shoot on higher ISO (to a fault). I'll shooting on higher ISO; good suggestion.
Thanks for the advice!
MP
May 15, 2013 15:42:04 #
R.G. wrote:
.Picking up on your original question, it's a depth... (show quote)
Yeah, I've got to start experimenting with higher ISO.
As for the birds, I've tried to to get them to pose in areas of my choice but the damn things are just hard-headed and won't cooperate! HA!
Thanks for your advice/input.
MP
May 15, 2013 16:04:04 #
Yes, the rule of thumb for shutter speed is 1 over your focal length, so if you are shooting with a 300 mm zoom, your shutter speed should be 1/300. If you use a tripod you can use a slower shutter speed, however. For more depth of field (depth of focus) you need a smaller f-stop (higher aperture number). To accomplish this you need a higher ISO. I recommend underexposing a bit to help compensate for this. I would suggest 1/100 on a tripod a f/16 and ISO 1600.
Check your results and adjust accordingly. If too bright, go to f/22 or 1/200. If too dark, increase your ISO. There are good noise reduction tools for noise due to high ISO. Good luck and Carpe Imago!
Check your results and adjust accordingly. If too bright, go to f/22 or 1/200. If too dark, increase your ISO. There are good noise reduction tools for noise due to high ISO. Good luck and Carpe Imago!
May 15, 2013 16:22:04 #
Once upon a time, you could read the depth of field for the given f/stop directly on the lens. Why? So that you could properly set focus within the depth of field and KNOW what is going to be sharp. Today, lenses have generally become more amateur, lacking built in depth of field reference.
That said, the trick for the bird photo is to first establish the f/stop, then determine what shutter speed, and finally, set the ISO to make the first two work.
You don't want to stop all the way down, as this is performance limiting. Wide open will be too shallow, and so, there will be some playing around to do.
That said, the trick for the bird photo is to first establish the f/stop, then determine what shutter speed, and finally, set the ISO to make the first two work.
You don't want to stop all the way down, as this is performance limiting. Wide open will be too shallow, and so, there will be some playing around to do.
May 15, 2013 22:51:23 #
There are some situations where you have to accept that you simply won't get both birds in focus. With your camera and using that lens you would never have gotten both IF no matter what the settings. Take a look at the picture again. The Cardinal is much closer to you than the Robin is. Your focus was on the Robin. Even if you cranked your aperture to it's highest number you would still not have been able to get both in focus. Next time I suggest you pick one bird and concentrate on that. I agree with the others. Crank up your shutter speed.
May 15, 2013 23:07:01 #
maurygriffith wrote:
Yes, the rule of thumb for shutter speed is 1 over your focal length, so if you are shooting with a 300 mm zoom, your shutter speed should be 1/300.
One thing to note- effects of camera shake increases with a decrease of angle of view. That "1/focal length" rule of thumb was for 35mm film ( or full-frame)
You should use 1/ff equivalent focal length. (this does not factor in tripod use or whatever camera shake function you have)
A 300mm lens on a crop-sensor Nikon camera has the equivalent focal length as a 450 on a full frame camera...so use 1/450 as your minimum. Not that much difference, but something to think about.
Lets apply this to, say- a Canon SX30, which has a much smaller sensor (5.2x crop factor, from what I could find). At 87mm actual focal length, it has the FF equivalent of about 450mm. At which minimum shutter setting would you expect to get something usable? The actual focal length or the equivalent?
May 16, 2013 06:35:32 #
May 16, 2013 06:40:16 #
Joe F.N. wrote:
There are some situations where you have to accept... (show quote)
Good advice; thanks. Maybe I'll just politely ask the birds to sit a little closer next time...Ha! (By the way, that's a great shot of the bird/duck you have)
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