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Posts for: Elmerviking
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Apr 2, 2019 11:25:03   #
Leeo wrote:
https://www.casualphotophile.com/2018/05/30/whats-an-apollo-nikon-f-and-why-should-we-care/

Recent article I found on the Nikon F2 that I received from a dear friend, who's husband purchased in 1973. I know mine did not go to the moon, but was made around that time. It's a great camera none the less.
If requested I will submit photos using my DSLR.



Nikon F2 are never called Apollo...only late Nikon F. There are more significant improvements that the article don't mention. One is the reinforced strap lugs, another is the threaded flash cable connection. (Sorry don't remember the correct word//I am Swedish). The little knob that disconnect the prism has a slot so you can press the button with your nails. There are many good articles about the Apollo version but the one you quoted is not the best.
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Apr 1, 2019 23:29:59   #
Gene51 wrote:
Elmer and Robert - you are both misinterpreting the DXO mark scoring. A score in their metric is how a particular lens and camera compares to a "perfect" lens on that camera. It is not intended to be a comparison between lenses. If you look at some of the lenses that are tested on full frame and crop sensor cameras have different scores - depending on the sensor size and resolution. No, the lens is not sharper/less sharp on a crop body than it is on a full frame - it's only a measurement of perceptual megapixels - or whether or not getting a lens that has greater acuity/contrast is worth purchasing on a given body.
Elmer and Robert - you are both misinterpreting th... (show quote)


Sorry..I think you have to learn more about dxo mark! The perceptual sharpness for example is an average of central and side/corner sharpness, and even average sharpness at all f-stops! That means that you can compare one lens with others on the same camera! If you look at the table, which is for Nikon D7100, you’ll find that the 18-140 mm lens is the sharpest.
Another common misunderstanding is that FF lenses are sharper on a DX camera because “you use the sharper middle of the lens”. That is not true. A DX lens is most of the times sharper than a FF with same focal length.
Check dx o mark if you don’t believe it!
Have a good day!
😊 Bosse
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Apr 1, 2019 12:47:00   #
As you can see, there are a lot of different opinions...from love this lens to less than mediocre. Only you can make the decision what fits your needs.
My advice is to buy one from Best Buy, test it and if you don’t like Return it!
Best Buy have price match warranty and free shipping and return policy.
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Mar 31, 2019 23:07:42   #
DaveyDitzer wrote:
Had one (18-140) that came with my first body. Used it 98% of the time in Hawaii and later sold it and now regret selling it.


Just one quick example:

Mediocre quality??


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Mar 31, 2019 21:27:43   #
Robert Bailey wrote:
Here is the dxomark sharpness test of this lens mounted on a D7100.
As you can see it yields poor quality once you go past f 8.
That was my experience in using the lens for about 2 years.

The main point is that a score of 10 or 11 is NOT a good score!
A score of 40 or 50 is a good score!

https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Nikon/Nikon-AF-S-DX-NIKKOR-18-140mm-F35-56G-ED-VR-mounted-on-Nikon-D7100---Measurements__865


Read the review! They say that the 18-140 is the sharpest in their database and also that the overall scare is”very good”. I guess you have your own opinion which nobody can tell you is wrong. I still go with the dx-o score and my own experience..it is a VERY GOOD lens!😊
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Mar 31, 2019 20:41:53   #
Robert Bailey wrote:
Dxomark has tested this lens. It performs best on a D500. (You can enter what camera body you have and see how it performed on that body. I have a D7100 and it tests not as well.)
Here is the test on sharpness from dxomark (when mounted on a D500).
I own the lens, but no longer use it because it is mediocre at best.

https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Nikon/Nikon-AF-S-DX-NIKKOR-18-140mm-F35-56G-ED-VR-mounted-on-Nikon-D500---Measurements__1061


I don’t know how you interpreters the data. They are almost identical for the 7100 and 500. As a matter of fact the D7100 has sharpness 11 when the D500 has10 my.how can you say it’s mediocre? See this table:




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Mar 31, 2019 16:35:03   #
There is not a single digital camera today that is comparable to an old high quality film camera. I shoot my vintage Nikon F because I enjoy the feeling of quality. That camera is built to last a lifetime, which you cannot say about DSLR. They just don’t make cameras like that any more!
Like others said, it also slows you down and make you compose more carefully.
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Mar 31, 2019 16:26:34   #
The Nikkor 18-140 is actually the sharpest of all comparable according to dx-o mark. It is my walk around lens...on the camera 99 % of all time. It is a big misconception that “plastic” lenses are fragil. I dismantled an old 80-200 mm plastic lens that was broken and not worth repairing. I was totally impressed how durable the “plastic” was. Really hard to break! Modern plastic is extremely strong and durable! Ken Rockwell stated that the 8-140 mm had a lot of distortion...maybe so, but you can set auto distortion control “on” and this will do a fantastic job reducing pincushion and barrel distortion! You of course need to have the latest firmware installed.
I never shoot birds so I have no opinion which lens you need for that, but the 18-140 mm is one of the best everyday lenses you can chose!
I highly recommend this lens...it’s very sharp and affordable!
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Mar 12, 2019 13:01:59   #
billnikon wrote:
NOT correct.


What is not correct?
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Mar 12, 2019 12:16:12   #
billnikon wrote:
The Apollo is easily identifiable by the large Plastic attachment to the film advance lever. The reason it was called the Apollo is that it was developed for the Apollo astronauts so they could advance the film with their gloves on.
Yes, they used STOCK Nikon's with few adaptions on the Apollo missions, just another feather in the cap of Nikon.
Astronauts still use Nikon rangefinders to determine distances for docking. Cool.


Sorry to correct you. The Nikon F “Apollo” is just a nickname. NASA never used stock Nikon F cameras!
The plastic advance lever is just adapted from Nikon F2 as is the plastic self timer. I have a Nikon F Apollo manufactured in 1973_1974 which still works great (even the FTn finder. Other things that separates the Apollo from older versions is the reinforced strap lugs and flash connection among other things. Only the very last 500 manufactured are collectors item.
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Mar 4, 2019 12:19:45   #
amfoto1 wrote:
You said you are 6' 2" tall.... 74".

The Manfrotto BeFree GT Carbon is 54" tall without the center column raised... and 63" tall with it fully raised, which will be the tripod's least stable setup.

What I don't know is if these dimensions are the tripod alone or if they include the Manfrotto 496 head that's normally sold with the tripod. I'm guessing the latter because I don't see the leg set selling anywhere without the head. If that's the case, unless you're seated while using it, you'll always be extending the tripod to it's max (and wobbliest) and still will be stooping to use it, which I suspect you'll find pretty uncomfortable fairly quickly.

Travel tripods, in particular, may be rather short for tall people.

You would probably be happier buying a "regular" tripod leg set separately and choosing your own head to use on it. For example, the Feisol Elite CT-3372LV M2 tripod weighs about 5 lb. and is about 60.5" tall without any head installed and without its center column raised (this model is available with or without center column... also available is a leveling platform that takes the place of a center column). Once you add a typical ballhead to that, the height will be around 65", still without using the center column. Of course, when it's mounted the cameras' viewfinder eyeport will be an inch or two higher than that.... and you're getting pretty close to your eye level. Further, this tripod has 3-section legs which make for better stability (and quicker setup) than travel tripods with 4-section or, worse, 5-or-more-section legs.

I no longer have any tripods with lever type leg locks. I've used them in the past and they're prone to wear and need adjustment or repair sometimes. Possibly more concerning, they also can catch on branches etc. while carrying the tripod... or snag on cuffs and sleeves while working with the tripod.

I have a heavy duty "studio" tripod with thumbscrew fasteners on the legs and leg braces. My "field" tripods are carbon fiber Gitzo with twist type leg locks. Both thumbscrew type and twist type locks are pretty much self-adjusting and not prone to wear. The twist type are low-profile, too... less likely to catch on things while carrying or using the tripod. They would be pretty hard to damage during shipment, too.

There are several companies making tripods like the Feisol mentioned above. I'm just using that as an example, partly because they have good info about it's dimensions online. And I think that the height of any tripod should be your first concern.... a lot of them will be too short to be used comfortably... or you'll need to extend them to the point they're so wobbly as to be hardly worth using.
You said you are 6' 2" tall.... 74". br... (show quote)


Thank you for your reply!
I am well aware of the lesser stupidity with the center column extended. I am mostly concerned about the carrying weight of the tripod. I have a very sturdy and tall Manfrotto which is probably 30 years old and still functions perfectly. But..and a big but...it’s very heavy so I tend to leave it at home. That’s why I started checking out travel tripods, like the Manfrotto Befree GT. As usual you get tons of suggestions here, which is both bad and good. I have now decided to stick with twist lock legs, but that is all I have decided so far. I am waiting until my local shop gets in more to chose from, which they said will be in a couple of weeks. Then I will go there with my camera (Nikon D7100) and my heaviest lens to really find the most cost effective and sturdy light weight tripod.
Meanwhile I am checking reviews of all brands the UHH’ers have recommended. I am on a pretty tight budget as I am retired. It might be the best choice to stick with a monopod..I dunno.
I have to thank everybody for many good suggestions!
/Bosse
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Mar 2, 2019 12:42:49   #
jeep_daddy wrote:
Sounds like you've made your mind up. Tripods are a personal preference. Go for it.


No..I haven’t made up my mind.
Due to my engineering background I do a lot of research before I make a purchase. I went to the local store, Norman Camera in Kalamazoo, and checked out a lot of tripods. Unfortunately they were sold out of many I considered. They had one Manfrotto Befree advanced which actually impressed me and ALMOST made me buy it. I have watched hundreds of YouTube videos and for the moment I am interested in the Manfrotto Befree GT, which is carbon fiber and a taller version of the Befree Advanced. I am also a little bit hesitating between twist lock and lever lock. As you understand I want good quality at a reasonable price.
Norman Camera have ordered more tripods and will get them in a couple of weeks, so I’ll be back there to check out more.
UHH is just one part of my research and I appreciate any opinion!
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Mar 2, 2019 11:30:14   #
I have an old Manfrotto with an ArcaSwiss ball head. At least twice I loosened the plate instead of the ball head by mistake. Both times I catched the camera before it fell to the ground! I use a Peak Design plate with the strap attached to it. That plate does not have the small protruding screws that prevents the camera to fall off. That is one reason I am considering Manfrotto with their quick lock system.
Well...I know that they are leight weight and can tip over in breezy wind, but too many times I never brought my heavy tripod when I needed it
Isn’t a travel tripod better than none?
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Mar 1, 2019 23:29:06   #
Strodav wrote:
A travel tripod trades off stability for height, weight, and load capacity. I take the befree when I'm going to be hiking all day and it serves me well even for birds in flight, but you have to be a little careful on how much force you use with it. Carbon is more stiff than aluminum but the thin leg weakness is at the joints whether its aluminum or carbon. I do not take the Befree when I'm shooting landscapes or for astrophotography, or in heavier winds or when the car is close to the shoot. For those cases I have a relatively compact SIRUI carbon fiber EN-2204 which folds to 19" (with the head), has much thicker legs, a 31 lb load capacity and, with a ball head, is 5' 7" at the quick release plate, so I don't have to crouch when using it. I have to strap it under or to the back of my backpack, but only weighs 3.3 lbs. For studio work, I've got a heavier duty aluminum Vanguard. You are not going hiking too far with that one. Now the Manfrotto Befree Advanced Carbon Fiber Travel Tripod with 494 Center Ball Head for $319 on Amazon has better specs than the one I own.
A travel tripod trades off stability for height, w... (show quote)


Thank you for your opinion!
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Mar 1, 2019 21:43:46   #
Strodav wrote:
Have an aluminum befree MKBFA4-BH I bought it along with a Manfrotto travel backpack, which has room for my 15" MacBook Pro. The backpack has a long side pouch for the tripod and the backpack is big enough for my D500 with an attached lens and for a Tamron 150-600mm f5-6.3 G2 birding lens + all of the pockets, nooks and crannies for all your accessories. The tripod is sturdy enough for my birding set up (I believe it's rated for about 9 lbs), but fairly lightweight and compact at 16". I'm sure the carbon version is even lighter. It is a bit short at 4' 9" (I'm 5' 8"), and I do have to stoop if using it standing up. For birding, much of the time I'm sitting on the ground or on a bench so it's fine in those situations.
Have an aluminum befree MKBFA4-BH I bought it alon... (show quote)


Do you experience any vibrations from your tripod? Is the carbon fiber that more vibration resistant in your opinion or is it just a sale trick?
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