I ordered my Z9 from B&H on the afternoon of 10/28/21 and am still waiting for it as well.

From Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge in Galloway NJ, last week.

I bought this rail as well - Have yet to use it, but it appears to be in good working order.

I'd recommend a cheap Chinese knockoff wireless model, good for 100 meters. I have one by Phottix (don't know if it is actually Chinese made).

Another

I was there last week with my Nikon D500 and 200-500mm lens. I wish I had a longer lens, since the sluices that were opened (where the eagles congregate to fish) where furthest from the bank where all us photographers were. My photos (except for the tree shot) are all heavily cropped (down to about 11% of the original).

Here's mine, from Central New Jersey. Nikon D500 with 200-500mm lens, set at 500mm. Exposure: 1.0 sec, f5.6, ISO 400, manual focus. Heavily cropped.

I have an Epson Artisan 810 printer that remains on all the time.

Based on your question, I just metered it, and it consumes 9 watts of power in this standby mode. Based on this waste of energy, I will turn it off and only turn it on from now on when I use it, which is very seldom.

P.S. I have this kill-a-watt device that measures power usage (in watts).

The D850 is one fantastic camera.

Definitely the Godox system (or Flashpoint - it's the same flash/system).

Nikon ONLY allows calibration at one focal length on a zoom lens. Unless all your intermediate focal lengths are front or back focusing the same, the recommendations I have read are to leave it be (unless you shoot primarily at one focal length - like primarily at 200mm, for instance, then calibrate it for that zoom length.

I have the same lens as you, and I have resisted a calibration attempt on it, or my other zooms for that matter. I only calibrated my primes (the ones that needed it).

I've seen Steve Perry's utube on this and have his book that further discusses this issue (thanks Steve). I will follow his suggested methodology. I just don't understand why manually defocusing in one direction from the other produces different results.

Yup, I'm on single point autofocus, and selected the narrow focus area option.

Yes, I found a link that describes the process and button sequence to push to have the camera auto correct the auto focus. It doesn't work 100% - you have to check the results and perhaps manually adjust the calibration number.

The url I found on this is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-kt7B0rNvM

I'm trying to calibrate my prime lens on my Nikon D850. A couple of my primes have the following issue:

If I de-focus my lens by rotating my focus ring to the left and then autofocus I get an in focus reading of -1 to +4 on my target scale. If I then de-focus my lens by rotating my focus ring to the right, I then get an autofocus reading of -4 to +2.

This has happened with two of the four lens I have attempted to calibrate, so far (numbers of course change between lens).

Has anyone else had this problem? Am I doing something incorrectly?

My cam is on a tripod, I'm using AF-S, no vibration reduction, in aperture priority, with widest f stop an a well lite subject.

BTW - this does not happen in Liveview.