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Posts for: Tomfl101
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Apr 13, 2024 07:48:19   #
I just recently noticed this about Canon vs third party batteries in my R5. When 2 Canon LP-E6NH batteries are in place (with grip) the burst indicator icon will light green and the frame rate is around 12 fps in mechanical mode. If off brand batteries are installed the icon blinks white and the burst rate is significantly slower. In electronic shutter mode the green/white indicator stays white and the burst rate seems to be the same at 20 fps. So for sporting events I now use Canon batteries when possible. Especially if I’m indoors with flickering light sources that occasionally cause banding with the electronic shutter. All other functions seem the same with no ill effects to the camera that I’m aware of.
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Apr 12, 2024 07:23:48   #
Blaster34 wrote:
Everything I read points to turning off stabilization (OS) when using a tripod. However, presuming the electronic shutter works by turning the sensor on and off again and is supposedly silent, ie, without the moving parts of a mechanical shutter, then should it really matter if the camera's OS is turned off or not while on a tripod? Does that technique also apply to lenses with built-in stabilization? Cheers!


I’ve never turned IS off and have never noticed any ill effects. Run a few tests at various shutter speeds and determine for yourself.
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Apr 8, 2024 12:04:01   #
wdross wrote:
If he "experiments" with his 3 stop ND filter and his 1.5 stop polarizer, his shutter and/or sensor will be damaged. If you are using only an 8 stop filter for your camera, you are at risk (Are you really sure that your filter is only 8 stops?). Check B&H Photo, Adorama, Thousand Oaks Optical, and the NASA website and see the minimum is 16.5 stops (in photographic ND terms, 100,000X). If you are using a DSLR, your eyes are at risk. With a mirrorless, at least only your camera will be at risk. When I was choosing what level light reduction using welders glass, I tried ND 16, ND 17, ND 18, and ND 19 darknesses (16 to 19 stops). Although 16 and 17 were too bright for my viewing taste, they were more than acceptable for a camera. The 19 was too dark for my taste. Based off my own experience, if you are only using an 8 stop filter, you are only taking an unnecessary risk of camera damage and/or permanent eye damage. And for the OP, at only 4.5 stops, it would be a very ignorant decision.
If he "experiments" with his 3 stop ND f... (show quote)


I was using a 400 2.8 lens with a rear mount filter slide. The huge 4 inch+ front filter mount was damaged on the barrowed lens I was using. As I recall the darkest rear mount filter I could find was an 8 stop. Since I used a 2x converter it allowed an exposure of 1/8000 at f22. My Mark3 camera suffered no damage. The converter made the difference. See samples


(Download)
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Apr 7, 2024 10:06:48   #
No definitely not. The 9% still visible will be too bright without the special glasses.
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Apr 7, 2024 08:18:07   #
In 2017 I used an 8 stop ND on a 400mm lens with a 2x converter and a Canon 5D3. I used live view. See my avatar for the results. Do some tests before the event with your 10x.
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Apr 6, 2024 07:46:03   #
burkphoto wrote:
I have good luck in venues where I can scout ahead and learn the actual color temperature of the light sources. It's less and less common to be in a theatre with 3200K Tungsten-Halogen Quartz lights these days, because 4300K to 4700K LED fixtures have replaced most of them, especially in newer areas. HMI lights are usually 5000 to 5600K.

The trick for working with colored accent lighting on location is to set the camera for a fixed color temperature they use for WHITE light, and let the color fall where it may. There is no point in color correcting colored light back to "white." I'm thinking of theatre, rock concerts, and shows where color is used for mood... Runway modeling may or may not be a fit, depending upon what is important to capture.
I have good luck in venues where I can scout ahead... (show quote)


👍👍
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Apr 5, 2024 06:27:42   #
With different color light from multiple directions no color checker/card will help you. Even in clean continuous light color checkers have never given me results that didn’t need additional tweaking. I stopped using them and just work with kelvin, tint and HSL sliders as needed.
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Mar 28, 2024 08:10:03   #
Excellent!
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Mar 23, 2024 08:35:07   #
First and foremost to earn a living. Secondly, knowing that my clients are happy with my work and will enjoy it for years to come. Photographs, especially of people, actually gain value in time. I’m proud to be the photographer that has locked in so many precious memories.
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Mar 19, 2024 08:04:24   #
The 85 is bested used for outdoor portraits when extremely shallow DOF and bokeh is desired. Since you are primarily a landscape photographer I say skip that purchase and stick with what you have. Your 24-105 is an excellent lens.
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Mar 19, 2024 07:52:53   #
I hope I’m not missing something here but a simple way would be to import all images in LR. Sort by date created, then rename all files starting with a consistent prefix like AAA_0001. This way all your keepers will be in order whether they are sorted by date or file name.
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Mar 19, 2024 07:36:09   #
If you’re a landscape photographer shooting small apertures of still subjects, I agree there’s no reason to switch to mirrorless. But if you shoot sports, weddings or portraits at wide open apertures you will see significant improvement in sharpness and consistency of focus with mirrorless. Faster frame rates allow you bring home a higher percentage of peak performance imagery in sports and or birding photography. A mirrorless camera is just better tool. Embrace the improvements if your forte demands it.
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Mar 7, 2024 07:44:52   #
Mainridge wrote:
As a wildlife shooter, one is always instructed to fill the frame. When the distance is such that the frame cannot be filled using a full-frame camera, is there a hard and fast rule as to the best alternative method to fill the frame? In other words, should I switch over to Aps-c, add a teleconverter or crop in post. I am usually shooting with a 45 mp camera if that helps.


I always fill the frame as is possible, but I switch to crop mode when needed for sports. Doing so in post would be better but I don’t have the time to custom process hundreds of photos.

Note: My 45 mp camera is an R5. I never use the depth of field preview button so I customized its use to automatically switch from full frame to crop mode. It gives me an instant zoom effect on the fly. I hope you’ll try it.
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Mar 3, 2024 06:42:40   #
I hate to be the party pooper but it looks a bit underexposed and blue to me.
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Mar 2, 2024 08:07:01   #
Warhorse wrote:
My 19 year old grandson is participating in an indoors Brazilion Jiu Jitsu match this weekend. I would like to shoot some of the events with him in it. Having never been to such an event, I am looking for advice on how to go about getting some good shots.


I have never photographed a Jiu Jitsu match but have shot high school wrestling many times. My usual settings for wrestling would be 1/500-2.8 with a 70-200 zoom. I assume Jiu Jitsu is a faster sport so 1/1000 may be a better choice. Your ISO will most likely be 3200-10000 depending on lighting. Use Auto white balance unless you’re comfortable setting manual kelvin/tint or using a white/gray card for a custom WB. I would not use a flash, and I’m surprised you were told it was OK. Flash on-camera images will look old and dated to when ISO was impossible to change on the fly as it now is with digital. It is also distracting to the athletes and referees. Look to magazine or newspaper photos for current examples of how pros shoot the sport. Good luck.
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