Ugly Hedgehog® - Photography Forum
Posts for: Tomfl101
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Apr 22, 2019 08:57:55   #
I need readers to see camera settings and image previews so I leave them on but low on the nose. I’m able to look through the viewfinder without them. Trouble is the glasses push up against the monitor and have marred the glass on both bodies I own.
Apr 22, 2019 06:27:09   #
I love it. I could see this on any wall in my home. Very very nice!
Apr 21, 2019 08:45:17   #
Apr 20, 2019 07:52:18   #
From my perspective polarizing filters are not worth it. Although they sometimes improve skies they also tend to dull down natural reflections from leaves, rocks, etc and just take to life out of some scenes, not to mention losing 1.5-2 stops exposure. I believe better results are rendered in post processing with an "original" file.
Apr 20, 2019 07:34:00   #
Apr 19, 2019 16:32:10   #
Some amusing photographs to share. Enjoy....

Apr 19, 2019 11:59:58   #
Cool! Good title too.
Apr 19, 2019 11:58:29   #
Brookside never disappoints. Great images
Apr 19, 2019 11:56:58   #
Last vehicle made before Ford switched to war production I believe.
Apr 16, 2019 08:34:03   #
Well you did a great job capturing it here!
Apr 16, 2019 08:31:33   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
I have a grey card in my wallet, the same size as a credit card. Easily can be moved from wallet to pants pocket or to breast pocket of shirt for easy access and use in the field when actively needed.

But, it's getting onto years now since I've used the card. I now let the camera operate in auto WB in all situations while shooting in RAW in all situations. I then adjust the K temp and Green-Red tint in LR during editing. You need a calibrated monitor and may need to futz with the values both initially and during a final check of results after editing. I don't click a control point within the image, rather just eye-ball. Use the before / after swap to help eyeball the needed changes.

The auto WB adjustment within LR is usually worse than no change, but the software analysis helps you understand, typically, the direction of the update needed. The auto analysis may make the image too warm or cool, but you can use the direction of the change to determine the update to the original WB / K-temp as determined by the camera. Or, sometimes the LR software will indicate the opposite direction, making an image warmer (higher K temp) when the "correct" update is to pull the K-temp lower from the out-of-camera temp. As you experience and observe the tendencies of the camera and the software, you get a feel for how they work, and over time, can work more efficiently in your editing.

To me, the best aspect of LR is setting the WB on one image and then syncing that change across all similar images. I may tweak the WB further as I work across the images, but usually, after I've "established" the WB for that situation / time of day, I just need to sync across the images and move onto other edits.
I have a grey card in my wallet, the same size as ... (show quote)

I’ve tried Auto WB and find it very erratic. It always attempts to counter the dominant color of the scene. For instance, a red shirt will render a face blue, then point to a pink shirt and the face goes magenta. I like to use manual WB. It tends to lock the correct color in similar lighting and allows for more accurate syncing in post.
Apr 16, 2019 08:16:59   #
Good timing getting the ball in frame. Too bad no faces show. You might try moving closer to first or third base for at the plate shots.
Apr 16, 2019 08:02:25   #
Yes, good for exposure but not for color.
Apr 16, 2019 06:41:42   #
elliott937 wrote:
For years, in using my Canon DSLRs, I've always turned off the gazillion focusing squares and elected for just one in the center. I suppose if photographing a moving subject, moving either toward or away from the camera would be a perfect time to have the gazillion squares turned on. For me, I prefer to have just one focusing square and have total control. Am I missing something? Or, do many of you turn off all but one of the focusing squares?

I use centered single point focus most often in single shot mode. For slow moving objects I use continuous mode and move the square to fit the composition. For fast moving sports I use multi-point continuous since it’s too hard to hold a single square on a moving face or body. It will miss focus maybe 20% of the time but still yields the best results for me.
Apr 16, 2019 06:20:45   #
Maybe that explains why you won’t get the same reading when you measure light in a scene with an incident meter vs a reflected reading off a gray card. So why would Kodak continue the 18% standard?
Also- how do you get proper white balance from a red hat?
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