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Posts for: FTn
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Dec 23, 2023 10:20:03   #
This is just speculation. I have no inside information but if you look carefully at the sensor it appears that Nikon has left room for a sensor that is larger than 24x36mm. Could the S series lenses be larger to cover the larger sensor? If larger sensors become the latest thing Nikon is in a good position. If not no big loss.
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Apr 11, 2022 09:14:12   #
Yes. You will be fine with the Z50 and the 16-50 and the 50-250. You can always crop a little in post. Go have fun and come back with some amazing images.

- FTn
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Aug 2, 2021 09:16:59   #
It's a PEZ candy. Look around for the PEZ dispenor.

- FTn
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Apr 9, 2021 21:28:46   #
Sorry these don't work for me. Try some different angles. Get down lower or up higher. Try filling the frame. Use fill lighting (cards, lights, speed lights) to open up the shadows on the car. You want people to see the car in a way that they normally don't see it but is still aestheticly pleasing.

- FTn
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Sep 20, 2020 09:20:30   #
Sure smells like the work of trolls to me. Boone posts a very vague question about Micro lenses. Thomas slams me when I ask for more information to try to help Boone and Boone's only response is to post a snarky smiley face and then is never heard from again. There is more and more of this going on here. The bad actors are going to ruin this place.

- FTn
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Sep 19, 2020 11:01:25   #
Boone wrote:
I do not ask this question of all Photographers because I am asking this question to those of us that have been in this art for a long time. And I hope, all Photographers will understand why I am asking this in the manner in which it is asked! I thank you in advance!

The question: If you were buying a Macro Lens (Or as Nikon calls it..."Micro Lens")

"What lens would you buy"?

Parameters are: Fx, Under $700

I would like your "Unbiased Opinion" (Dose not matter if you own the lens, as long as you have "USED THE LENS".

If you own, or you have used this lens, I would appreciate any good photos you have using this lens!

I thank you for your honest opinions.

Thanks,

Boone.
I do not ask this question of all Photographers be... (show quote)


Hi -

We're going to need some more information before we can really give you some guidance.


1. What lens(es) do you already have?

2. What do you want to photograph that you can't with the lens(es) that you already have?

3. What camera body or bodies do you want to use this new lens on?

Once we know these answers we can not only help you with a suggestion for a micro lens but also lenses that also work well in other situations. For instance the Nikon 105mm micro is not only a great for photographing flowers and insects, it is also a great portrait lens. The Nikon 60mm micro lens(es) are great for shooting small objects like coins and stamps as well as copying old slides and negatives using Nikon's ES-2 attachment.

Once we know what you want to do and what gaps you might have in your equipment we can be much more help.

- FTn
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Sep 17, 2020 13:39:57   #
An old iPhone should work well. It doesn't have to have active cell service to take photographs. If he starts to really get into it you can buy a cheap set of clip on lenses to use on the phone. If he "misplaces" it it's no big deal. The phone was probably living in the back of your desk draw anyway.

- FTn
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Sep 15, 2020 18:47:02   #
If I remember correctly the threads are plastic on that lens. It sure sounds like they are stripped. Do other filters stay on the lens under the same conditions? Also Does the filter also have plastic threads?

- FTn
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Sep 15, 2020 11:01:13   #
b top gun wrote:
Finally a break in the gloomy weather so I could set up a test of my copy of a Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 non VR lens. Primary reason for testing, check lens performance primarily at the 24mm setting from f/2.8 through f/16 in whole stops. Have questioned the image sharpness of the corners of this lens since I got it. Test target, my back fence, 5 foot high wooden privacy type with lots of detail; target chosen because of the detail available. Lens on my D850 on a tripod. Distance to the target, about 8 feet; D850 as square to the fence as possible; 2 second exposure delay selected to minimize camera shake. Shots were taken in sets of 6 exposures; one set in color, a second set in monochrome for extra detail. 24mm starting at f/2.8, about 65% of the image had acceptable sharpness from the center out. Did not get acceptable image sharpness until f/11 at 24mm and even then not sharp all the way to the corners/edges. Same lens, same string of shots except at 28mm; immediately better results. Did not shoot beyond 28mm by choice. All this with the camera and lens set for auto focus.

For comparison sake, switched to live view, full manual focusing, and used in camera focus peaking option available in the D850. Manual focus shots gave better results especially at the wider apertures almost immediately. From experience I know not to shoot this lens at 24mm and forget f/2.8 at pretty much all focal lengths. I start at 28mm, have learned the sweet spot of this particular lens is f/5.6 or smaller. When shooting landscapes and seascapes I have come to prefer f/6.3-f/7.1 minimum aperture and a tripod whenever convenient. Will try some 'scapes using live view next. I have been researching 24mm primes and lenses like the Nikon 14-24 f/2.8 to renew my faith in the 24mm focal length; want to use it for low light and night time shooting as well. All this for me begs the question...."Why would you make a lens with a max aperture of f/2.8 if said lens does not yield sharp images to at least 80% of the image from the center out???" Using my copy of the 24-70 f/2.8 is like shooting through a tunnel at times. One option is to select the 1.2 crop factor available in the D850 menu, however that crop factor computes to around 28mm soooooooo, just set the lens there and shoot away, which I have been doing. Another option is to put this lens on my D7100 and get something else wide angle for my D850. Note: I am not looking at third party lenses, Tamron in particular; have owned four Tamron lenses, returned two to B&H a week after getting them, dumped my 150-600 due to auto focus issues; still have the 18-270 but should have sent it back because it is softer than my Nikon 18-200 VR.
Finally a break in the gloomy weather so I could s... (show quote)


A good friend of mine, another commercial photographer, had exactly the same problem with his Nikon 24-70 non vr lens on the D850. It just wasn't really sharp at the wide end. He borrowed a Nikon 14-24 f2.8 from NPS and tested them side by side in his studio. He found that the 14-24mm was much sharper at 24mm than the 24-70mm at 24mm at all aperatures. Needless to say he got rid of the 24-70mm. The D850 really demands great glass.

- FTn
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Sep 12, 2020 14:24:15   #
John Ryberg wrote:
I have a lot of slides and also early 1900's black and white negatives that need to be converted to digital. I am wanting to make or purchase a light box or light table so that I can photograph the slides.

My question concerns the light source behind the slide. Most sources say to use a daylight ( 5K - 6K) bulb or led. Nothing is ever mentioned about the brightness or lumens needed to accurately reproduce the slide. Daylight bulbs I have seen range from 500 to 2000 lumens. If to dim the colors can't be seen and if to bright the colors will appear washed out.

Is there a correct brightness for this or is it just personal preference and trial-and-error?
I have a lot of slides and also early 1900's black... (show quote)


Hi -

This is a copy of a Kodachrome slide that I did using the Nikon ES2 copying attachment mounted on my Nikon 60mm 2.8 AF-D. Shot with my D850. Light source was an old Balcar studio strobe with a defuser in front of it. I did shoot this tethered using Capture One so I was able to make my corrections while shooting. I did do some spot healing using Photoshop in post.

Originally I sent the slide out to a lab to have a drum scan done. The the $12 8 mp .jpg file that I got back was nowhere near the quality that I was able to get using a D850 and the ES2 and once set up it only took a minute or two for each slide I copied.

- FTn


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Sep 11, 2020 21:31:24   #
- FTn
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Sep 11, 2020 10:01:34   #
Just another Click Bait Clown. No value added here.

- FTn
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Sep 10, 2020 13:07:47   #
I evaluated it along with along with Capture One and Lightroom when I was looking for a tethering solution. I tested it on an old Dell with an i5 processor and 12 gigs of ram. I found it a bit sluggish and as a stand alone app a bit less feature rich than Capture One. If you shoot only Nikon, Sony, or Fugifilm exclusively, Capture One has versions that are dedicated to that manufacturer at a very attractive price.

- FTn
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Sep 10, 2020 09:14:15   #
You have pretty much reached the bottom of the rabbit hole with the D750 for right now. Nikon does make a couple of bodies that have 45 mp sensors but that's it right now. The D750, with its 24 mp sensor, will give you the image definition that we used to associate with 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 film cameras along with at least 10 stops of latitude at ISO 100.

The technology train has slowed down for the time being. The transition to mirrorless technology has not really gained a lot of speed yet.

Computers and post processing software have replaced the darkrooms of the past so there are other skill sets and expenses that will also loom in the not too distant future if they haven't already.

Hang in there. The technology and what it does for your workflow is amazing. I can't wait to see what you do with it.

- FTn
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Sep 9, 2020 08:50:40   #
I test my lenses using the process that Steve Perry outlines in his ebook. Most of my lenses need no correction except my 50mm f1.8. That one requires a -5 correction on my D850. I also check my lenses for chromatic abortion but that is another topic. It really doesn't take that long and once you have gone thru the process once you are essentially done unless you drop the lens or whack it against something hard.

If you want to consistently take great photographs, testing your equipment is an essential part of the process.

- FTn
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