It depends on the application and the subject. I s... (
This is the reason why extracting stills from video is not optimum, in the sense of anything being close in terms of IQ. It's less about the mp, its about freezing the subject. It is a great if the other option is nothing:-)
Attached is an extract from a Gopro Hero6. 8meg file. Poor quality picture due to the lens and sensor are not very good but I will take this very low Quality pick over nothing at all :-)
Better result if shooting 4k from my 5dDmkiv but still not as good as a photo from my 5D where I control everything.
(fyi, my son did survive the jump)
Kauai anytime to see the Na Pali coast
Oahu in Winter to witness the surfers
Hawaii if the Volcanos are active
Mauai - Road to Hana if you like waterfalls, Sunrise at the peak.
...all the above are unique!!!
(surf you can see in California at Mavericks when the swells are rolling but they are 2 miles out..... you can see it close to shore in Oahu (Pipeline/Sunset etc)
We did all 4 islands on a cruise and went back 2 years later and just stayed on Kauai.
How would you like 227,000? Seller faked (Photosh... (
...hope it keeps working for you...
I have a lowepro slingbag that I bought after owning a Protactic AW450 and another smaller/lighter Lowerpro and found the slingbag to be virtually useless. However, the AW450 is too big (great for transporting all my crap when I fly but dont like carrying it all day.
If you want to put a 7500 with 70-200 attached plus a 300mm on its own plus (during transport to and from the field) another body and lens. Then my mid-size Lowerpro can handle it.
You simply need to go to the website for Lowepro (or thanktank or domke etc ) and look for a bag with the configuration you described (you may have to transport one of the bodys separate from the lens but you will attach them together and carry it as soon as you get to your shooting location). They all usually have a raincover and lots of pockets for batteries and SD cards so that is not an issue. Get a "light" one. Again the AW450 is really heavy but it can carry 2 pro bodies and 5 lenses (including a 70-200). I recently went to Hawaii and I had 2 bodies, 70-200 2.8, a 150-600, 50mm, 24-70mm and coould have taken 2 more <85mm lenses easily...it weighed A TON. (also brought my midsize backpack crumpled in my suitcase to use for daily outings :-)
I would also recommend carrying both bodes and lenses ON YOU rather than having it in the backpack
BlackRapid has a great dooublestrap (there are other options) and you can also find some cheap alternatives that will work too.
I find that backpacks are good for transporting but find them a little cumbersome to make changes with on the fly.
For sports/events/weddings especially, it is more convenient to simply have the 2 bodies on me and I can instantly use either when I need to.
Any path to get to the ocean floor where the waterfall is?
The options for shooting at the sea level look awesome !
A new reply to your prescient input is a good way ... (
Got caught buying a high shutter count 5dmkiii too when I bought it as a 2nd camera for weddings. (Have a 6D too but stressed about the single card slot). The 5Dmkiii was advertised as a mostly video camera, rarely used, it looked 10/10, not a scratch. Got it home... 198,000 shutter actuations.... Seller vanished. Good news is that these cameras are reliability beasts and could last well beyond their rated shutter life. It was a good deal and with the 300 shutter replacement, probably would have paid the same as lower acutations body....still, I was pissed. Luckily, I only use it during weddings and still have my 6D as backup to my backup. (and the 6D is awesome in low light and low light focusing with the center pt. Not nearly as good as the 5dMkiv but comparable to the 5Dmkiii. ...keep clicking until it dies. Pay the $250-300 for a replacement shutter and keep rockin'
Have the 24-70 F4 version. Decided on the 35mmF1.4Lii over the replacing my F4 with the 2.8.
The extra creative possibilities with bokeh and low light shutter speeds convinced me in the end. The F4 IQ difference from the 2.8 wasn't enough to sell me.
If I was buying my first 24-70, I may be convinced to get the 2.8 but given I already had one and the IQ was good enough, I wen tthe 35mm route.
I find I use my 35mm most often doing still/couples work and the 24-70 ONLY when I I need fast framing flexibility...otherwise I zoom with my feet:-)
35mm 1.4L is my go-to street lens.
At 1.4, it can give you artistic blur and low light performance. Its pricey.
Have the 85mm 1.4L IS ... portraits only not as sharp as the 35mm.
MC11 is the go-to adapter for Sony according to reviews ( for photography and not video).
Cropped looks best. Imho.
Keep a 1/3 of the moon and lower its brightness a little with a filter. (Someone did that already and I probably like that best.
Bracket next time and then combine but I think you have gotten that feedback already
The landscape and lights on the houses with the detail you were able to get is compelling in its own.
Forget the moon on this one and enjoy this gorgeous photo without trying to make the moon the subject. My personal opinion is that all the efforts to save the moon are not better than the original...other than some tweaking in the sky around the edges of the moon that Linda suggested.
The detail on the house's is really good especially given the low light.
Road down, the best, hands down :-)
If there was no risk to life and limb, I may have ventured to the center of the road and get a perfectly symmetrical pic.
Love the sky and the overall landscape. Good one.
Chris Hayes wrote:
Go to Steve Perry's website or search YouTube for his video on using a tripod. He also has a video on waterfalls i believe. Moose Peterson uses the same technique. Sturdy Tripod light downward pressure on the lens right above the tripod.
Buy the best and sturdiest tripod you can fund. Anything less will disappoint you, just be prepared to carry the weight.
It's a good technique and I use it on my monopod when shooting sports/wildlife (I dont have a Gimbel/Gitzo setup....although all my research and this thread is convincing me I will have to spend the $ to get a properly stabilized setup to shoot long exposure)
Rather than speculate (like I did to the previous poster), I watched Steve Perry's video on the subject and he has confirmed for me that the "downward pressure" for a long lens is for shooting sports/BIF/or non-moving wildlife stabilized down to about 1/15 sec @600mm. I am shooting at around 0.3 to 2sec...not exactly "long exposure" but probably longer than I want anything to be "touching the setup" ....whether my hand, eye socket, fingers on the shutter, wind etc. Hence I use Mirror-up with trigger or mirror-up with 10sec delay. (Focus in Liveview and shoot in Non-live view mode so I dont need to touch the setup to trigger the photo).
...and SteveP uses IS (or VR in his nikon case) to further help stabilize in the case of shotting wildlife.
The IS activates at half press but is otherwise off, if shooting long exposure, does the IS turn off after 2 sec in the long exposure? I can see this having a negative effect unless the IS stays on between the shutter opening and closing...I will need to research that unless someone has the answer.
I would use a plain old 6 or 10 stop Nd. I tried the variable Nd but moisture got in between the elements and I couldn’t get rid of it. Also make sure your tripod is plenty sturdy!
hmmm...will check for moisture.....never thought of that...
Sometimes keeping your hand with slight downward pressure on your set up helps with vibration on a tripod. I think Moose Peterson ( & maybe Steve Perry) have vids on you tube on this subject. I gave tried this with a longer lens & it does work.
I do this with my monopod when shooting sports/BIF as iit helps me isolate the target but thought that my own body movements even with the downward pressure would mess-up a longer exposure shot on a tripod.
(Works great for trying to find the receiver in a football game through the viewfinder and getting the spot-AF on the target....wasnt sure it would be as good given the lack of sturdiness of the travel tripod. I will try it next time nonetheless....can't hurt and I have lots of "film" :-)
I have a question first of all - did you shut off ... (
IS was on I believe but I may have shut it off as I was trying different methods (IS on/off, F8-F18, playing with ISO/SS/ND gradient to see which combo was most effective for getting the blur and still getting the exposure I wanted.
It was a hazy day and yes, its several miles away across the canyon. There was haze and that for sure could have affected the AF. (I tried Liveview and Mirror down AF with triggers and also withg 10sec timer on the shuttger release.
...and I like the fog too....
see photo I got on the same day at the top of the Na Pali coast :-)
....will look into the tripod upgrade I think...
Bill Munny wrote:
Might try this method, which will cause a lot of g... (
Will try it....I would think that the wind would need to be 0 with leaf movement etc wrecking the bracketing. I suppose you could go into photoshop and mask the water area with the bracketed shots and then just use one of shots to do the unmasked areas around the water so the tree/leaf/cloud movement would be eliminated...