Here is what I have done. I did a time lapse on the construction of our cabin in Colorado. Mt intervalometer (homebuilt) was set for one shot every 15 seconds. It would run for about eight hours shooting .jpg files. That went on for about 30 days. It didn't do to bad.

After I bought my Canon EOS t-6, still no built in intervalometer, but I did purchase an external one for about $30. I did a time lapse of a Christmas cactus blooming here in Arizona. I set the interval for one second, used .jpg files again, using a 64gb card the amount of frames available was 9999. I just set it up on a tripod, framed my shot turned everything on and let it do its thing. As far as exposure went, I used aperture priority and auto focus. It ran for eight hours non-stop and it was a good thing as there were only about 30-45 seconds of usable frames of the actual blooming. Don't be afraid to "over shoot", the more frames the smoother the final product. I then assembled everything in Apple's Final Cut Pro X. Hope this helped, and good luck, I'd like to know ho things turned out for you>

I have shot several in camera time lapse videos with a Nikon D850; there is no default frame rate setting in that camera, the operator has to input everything. Things to consider include shifts in lighting during shooting the time lapse; using manual focus and full manual for consistency; and....make sure you have a fully charged battery, among other things. I have shot multiple time lapse videos that typically begin late afternoon and finish well after sunset so know the challenge of the change in lighting. I would practice as much as possible. In my cases it got pretty boring sitting there while the D850 did its business. And overstating the obvious, shoot from a safe and secure location; in my case I was at a park that was open 24 hours a day; safety is a concern these days when you are by yourself and have easily $5K in equipment on a tripod visible for most anyone in the neighborhood to notice.

How many 10 hour days? If it is very many, you have a big job!

There is a company called "Brino" that makes a timelapse camera aimed at construction companies. Take a look: https://www.brinnostore.com/collections/construction

Even their "low end" $300 version looks usable: https://www.brinnostore.com/products/brinno-time-lapse-camera-tlc300-m-bundle-2023-timelapse-camera-outdoor-construction-jobsite-camera-hdr-fhd1080p-timelapse-camera-with-wall-mount-lcd-screen-extended-battery-life-waterproof-case?currency=USD&variant=42561714815164&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=0a41a45edeb6&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvoqsBhB9EiwA9XTWGbZ2li4ypj77_mwrqOITfNEB6fc4RMcjQhwOFhDmv5YO2MMM2ekGrBoCH6sQAvD_BwE

The latest Adobe softwares support "CR3" files, in the general sense. But, every RAW file is unique from every camera. The file extensions are just a generalization for each brand of camera. So, the CR3 of an EOS R3 is distinct and different from the CR3 file from an EOS R10. Adobe has to update their software to process each of these CR3 files from each distinct camera model. You can review the Adobe.com site and find the minimum LR / PS software needed for each unique camera model. Then, confirm that software version operates on your target mobile device.