Picked a GoPro 3+ Silver Edition up at BJs for $199. I've been thinking of a Disney trip and thought this was the best way to take video and stills. Mounting the camera to my hat during some of the rides was my ultimate goal.
Still haven't been to Disney but I am having fun using it. There are three setting for video, wide, normal, and narrow. Narrow gives more of a zoom, while wide is really wide.
My issue was not seeing what was recording without using my smartphone, so I bought the LCD Touch BacPac that let's me see what is being focused on and allows for playback also. It cost $80 from GoPro.
I like that it is small and can fit easily in my pocket. I often pull it out of my pocket when I see something interesting happening.
The quality is very good and has a setting that helps in low light.
If you have the money and the interest, it's a nice little unit to have at your disposal when needed. PS, make sure you have at least two batteries.

I always put my camera in Program Mode (P) when I shut it off. If I have to hurry to get a shot off the P Mode will give me the best chance of getting a good photo when I'm in a hurry.

With adequate time, I will start in Aperture Priority unless I am shooting sports, then I use Shutter Priority.

The great thing about Program is you can make adjustments in aperture or shutter and use Exposure Compensation.

It should be called Safe Mode!!!

Just some advise as a guy who entered the hobby a year and half ago, what you start with will be your camera forever. If you already have access to Canon lenses, then that helps sway your decision towards Canon. I am a Nikon guy myself, and I have had multiple upgrades until finally reaching my first full frame camera, Nikon D600. I have had great success buying used on eBay. Make sure the seller has a long history on eBay though. My used D600 was not much more costly than my original new D3200. Final advise is to buy smart. I have bought a lot of lenses that seemed like a great deal but now are collecting dust. Save your money and invest in quality lenses that work well in low light situations (f2.8 or better). Good luck with this wonderful hobby.

Once again thanks for the suggestions. As far as repositioning or moving in anyway, it was not possible. The scene was a dedication of a memorial stone for the husband/father of the subjects. The shot was taken at a football field and the lights are powerful when you are near to them.
Looks as if post-production corrections are the simple solution. I did bring photo into Lightroom and the correction made the photo far more pleasant. Thanks again to all who contributed.

What I thought was a simple question turns out to be a subject that brings about a series of answer, all of which are apparently correct. What all your contributions have done is to get me to further examine the areas of metering and exposure that I had limited or no knowledge about. Next time I face this problem I will have some options that I am now aware of that could improve the photo, but may not totally solve the dilemma.
I did go into Lightroom, as many suggested, and within seconds had made the necessary adjustments to bring both subjects into a similar exposure.
I thank all the contributors for bringing up my knowledge level on the subject. You are all Aces of helping me out.

My understanding of the different options for metering are that Spot Metering will only give you the exposure for what is located in the camera's focal point, center weighted will concentrate on the lighting at the center of the frame and not in the corners and will not take into consideration the focal point, and matrix metering will take into consideration the entire frame but will give a priority to the focus point.
Is there any other definition that makes more sense or is easier to understand for a novice?
Lastly, if I use Spot Metering can I lock in the exposure by pointing at a certain object and then move and recompose?

Thank you to all who helped. I guess that the answer may be that there is no one answer to solve the problem. I guess my next attempt will start with matrix metering and if that doesn't solve the problem work within Lightroom to correct it.

Thanks. This photo is pretty similar to all that I took that evening. By the way, I did not use a flash.

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Haven't really gotten into taking photos of people, especially at night or with artificial lighting, but last week took a photo at a night football game with two people in the photo. One of the subjects came out perfectly exposed, the other (who was taller) was overexposed. What is the best way of getting both subjects to an acceptable exposure. I shot in program mode to select my highest ISO, but I let the camera determine the aperture and shutter speed. I did select the shutter speed once I saw that I didn't have a balance between both subjects, but still no improvement. I can't recall the metering mode I selected. Can anyone suggest how to correct this in future photos? Taking landscape, daytime photos is far less complicated. Isn't nature wonderful to photographers. Thanks in advance for any reply.

I have a grip for my D7000 and D600. They are the cheaper knockoffs because I didn't feel the OEM's were worth the price.
I find only one purpose behind the grip. If I am shooting the majority of photos in portrait mode, the grip is very helpful. I shoot a lot of sports and basketball and baseball (shooting the batter or pitcher only), will be done primarily in portrait mode.
The extra battery power is not a reason because, as others wrote, you can carry a spare in your pocket or bag.
There is extra weight and that works against a grip.
Other than shooting portrait the only other reason for a grip is to impres someone with your oversized camera.

I have both the D7000 and D600. The D7000 is a wonderful camera with most everything you'd want to take serious photos. However, my new love is the D600. It is my first venture into full frame and I'm enjoying it immensely. It's like being the older brother of the D7000.
I purchased both used and I feel that's the only way for me to go once I passed the D3000 series.
I would recommend wither of these beauties if it fits your budget.

With all the anticipation of a moon event, thought I'd post a photo I took earlier this week.

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These settings have always worked well for me when shooting the moon:
Taking Photos of the Moon

You will need at least a 300mm lense

Take off your UV filter

Use a tripod - Ballhead preferred

Set your camera to fully Manual

You can use Exposure Compensation if using Aperture or Shutter Priority. Use negative compensation

ISO 100 or 200

F 8.0 to F11.0

Shutter Speed 100, 125 or 250

Turn VR off

Use a remote shutter control

Shoot in RAW

Use Spot Metering

Manual Focus at Infinity

There is no limit to its use and you are bound to be close to a devise that can run Evernote. You can even email your favorite photos to Evernote to have them to show off to friends.

The Evernote app is my personal filing cabinet. I file many useful bits of information in some of the folders I have created. One folder - Personal, contains documents like a scanned copy of my drivers license, birth certificate, auto insurance policy, etc. I have one called Travel where I put in flight, auto rental and hotel reservations (when you sign up for Evernote you get an email account that you can forward any email you received to be filed in Evernote.

But I also have a Photography folder where I keep my camera equipment inventory, a .pdf of my camera's manual, and other subject related to photography. But what I also place in the folder (notebook) are instructions for setting on different kinds of shots that I don't take frequently, but need to have available when needed, like cheat sheets. These shots include instructions for: taking shots of the moon, fireworks, Disney rides, from an airplane, sunsets, landscapes, snow, and at a concert.

Evernote is free and available on IOS, droid, etc. So you can have it on your desktop, laptop, iPhone, iPad, and smartphone.

It's a great app to file anything that you may need to access for work, home, hobby, travel, etc.