One quick way, is to slide the print head out of its park position at least half way out on the print platen. Unplug the printer, wait a few minutes, then press the power on switch. If the print head does not move you are safe to proceed. If it does move back towards the park position but does not park, slide it back to where you started, and press the power on switch again. If no movement, you are safe to proceed with the following. Fold a paper towel in half, saturate the fold with a non foaming window cleaner that has ammonia. Slide the print head out of the way so that you can place the folded edge on the printing portion of the platen, and then carefully slide the print head over the folded paper towel. Since you have done multiple cleanings this may take a couple of hours to set in this position. Close the lid so that the towel does not dry out, as this will make your clogs worse. Keep checking the towel every so often by sliding the print head off, to make sure it is not dry. You should see inks on the towel when you slide the head off of it. If not, double the fold thickness and repeat until you see ink. Do not force the print head over the paper towel. Once you have done this,(seeing ink on the towel) and let it set for an hour or two, making sure the towel is wet, replace the soiled towel with a fresh towel soaked in cleaner again, for another hour or two. After this is done, assuming you now have ink flowing onto the towel, dry and clean the print platen, fold a dry towel to the same thickness and slide the print head over it to remove any ink that is on the head it self, until you get a clean towel. While this is being done, inspect the parking tray for the print head. You should see a small O ring around the perimeter, and using Q tips with window cleaner, clean it. Don't try to clean the screen within with the Q tip. If you have a syringe, you can saturate both the park screen and the cleaning screens by saturating them with window cleaner. Once everything is cleaned, plug the print power cord back in, turn on the power, let the printer cycle, do a quick clean. This should make sure there is no air bubbles in the lines, and now try a print pattern check. For my Epson printers it works 90% of the time, then it's time for a power clean.

Yes, empty cartridges filled with warm water and a few drops of windex is another way to do this. But, and this is the tricky part, you have to first remove the ink lines from the print head and make sure they are absolutely clean. If not, this method will break up the sediment in the lines and force it into the dampners and print head. Then it's good by print head. If you use this method, I suggest that you remove the disposal tray, remove its grid, remove the felt absorption pads, refill it with some old rags, put the grid back on, and go to it. This is the method I have adopted for the old printers I have adopted. So far, out of the seven 9000 series printers, I have had to replace only one print head. Took me two months of soaking and flushing to get it cleaned, so now I have a spare.

Ron

Tiffen I believe used to make 3 grades of filter. The less expensive was an unanodized ring, an excellent glass, and their top line glass. When I bought their top line glass, it was usually within the same price range as Hoya and Nikon. I saw a discussion on filters back in 2000, and Tiffen was rated slightly under Hoya, because of the sticky non anodized screw rings. As far as affecting image quality, on prime lenses at 300% I can tell a difference. On zoom lenses, it depends on the zoom of the lenses. Some will not tolerate a filter on the low end, others on the upper end, you just have to be aware of the lens. But this is still pixel peeping at over 100%. Also with their top glass as with Hoya and Nikkon they have a beefier ring. I use Tiffen, Hoya, and Nikon filters, the biggest I believe is 140mm for my Nikkor 400 and 600mm Q lenses. Now those really hurt your spare change. Also I believe if you check the Hoya web site, they have different grades of filters.

Ron

Wow, that series brings back a lot of memories. Some even before there was a bridge. I really can't be that old, can I?

Long before the bridge, it was a biker hang out. Some interesting times there.

Ron

Do a search for the "Norton Removal Tool". Otherwise it is going to leave a lot of crap behind which will still use system resources and nag screens popping up from time to time.

An excellent AV is Bitdefender. Runs without hiccups with windows defender and router firewalls.

Ron

Will this work?

(Download)

Check your fusion rollers, and make sure printer is level. You may be able to clean the rollers, or see if that end of the rollers is disintegrating.

Ron

In the Photo Persona it is just above the magnifier in the tool panel (bottom of tool bar). The Perspective Tool.

Ron

I apologize if I came across as confrontational. I too have a lot of the software you have listed, and tried every one that has a trial, but when I tried the Beta version of Affinity for windows I was intrigued. After the release of the official Windows version I have not upgraded any of my other software. My basic processing software is still NX-2, and I'm still learning all it is capable of. As far as Affinity goes, I won't be around long enough to explore all of its capabilities.

Ron

Why spend the time? If we are going to get so off topic, one click in NX-2 will do the same or better with the jpeg the OP posted, a total of maybe 15 sec. The OP asked a specific question about Affinity, not DXO, ON-1, ect, ect. If you are an Affinity user, and you have played with it, it is an exceptionally strong raw processor. I"m still learning things that it will do that are not obvious. But, you have to learn how to make it work. It is not as simpalistic as the sliders in LR or DXO, but if you are willing to learn you can do what you do in other programs, maybe even better and with more precision.

or your cameras software.

Affinity states that the develop module is destructive in the help menu and on the tutorials...

However, if you go into the properties of the program, you can strip out all the Affinity presets (for any or all modules) for the develop module, leaving you with the raw file as imported or as close to the original file as Affinity can interpret, as it is with any other software that you use to develop. Process the file as is and you are taken into the next module,Photo Persona. Go to layers, and duplicate the layer. Then turn off the Base layer and bring the second (new) layer into the develop module process as desired, and you are taken back into the Photo persona to continue to your hearts desire. Before you start changing things, you can switch back and forth between the layers to see if your development made the changes you anticipated. If not, turn off the Base layer, and take the new layer back to the develop module.

When you are done, "Save" the Affinity file with "all" layers, and then you can Export to your desired format. Now you can go back to the saved Affinity file and "all" your layers are there including the initial raw.

Ron

Go to File , Export. You will be presented with a window with multiple export types.

Ron

If I recall, it might have been the old Q series that Nikon made that were also used also on the Bronica's. The 400mm and 600mm lenses that I have weigh in the neighbor hood of 19 lbs each. They also made an 800mm, 1000mm and 1200mm. Have seen the 1000mm f4.5 at $20K on average for one that shows an extreme amount of external wear. I have seen the 1200mm f4.5 and f5.6 only in articles. Mine are fun to use, but the focus ring is really, really critical.

Ron

This puzzled me for a while until I took a long look at the overall effect of the center flower. It looks more like a demon monster flower. Clone out what looks like a demonic eye to the right of center.

Ron

Hrummph! Younger generation has no appreciation for older glass.