Think Tank is what I have. They have a variety of suitable choices...
I think it comes down to the personal preference and what equipment you have. I prefer my RRS gimbal over their ball head 99 percent of the time. I can use it with long lenses or short lenses such as the 24-70. There is no right or wrong answer, just what works for you based on what you have and like to use. I believe Steve Perry is even recommending using a gimbal on a monopod. I have not tried that yet though.
It is a nice portrait lens on a full frame sensor and it has the FOV equivalent of 110mm on my 1D MkIII with is 1.3 crop factor. On an APS-C body it is equivalent to about 135mm FOV. But because it focuses so quickly I find it great for indoor sports and outdoor fast action too. On a crop body it can be an advantage because of the narrower FOV. Highly recommended especially if one is looking for a fast sharp inexpensive lens.
👍👍 Absolutely. One of the best bargains in the Canon lens lineup. Tack sharp (sharper than many “Ls) light weight, less than $400, and a perfect portrait and low light lens for many shooting situations.
Yes, the 85mm f/1.8 is a great lens for the money with fast focusing and solid sharpness. I have also used this lens for portraits, indoor sports and drag racing shooting.
The simple answer is "yes".... those two... (
With any of the lenses you will need to consider the reduced angle of view with your crop sensor body. There are several good options especially if you have and are willing to spend the money. I would think that the 2.8 zooms might hold their value better than the primes over time if that is any consideration. The zooms would not disappoint as I have and use both.
If you shoot or will consider shooting RAW I will suggest you spend $100 on a Xrite ColorChecker Passport. That is the best $100 I ever spent on photography. You can look at videos about it on YouTube.
If ultimate sharpness is your goal (along with con... (
Agree, I also shoot with mostly the 24-70 and 70-200 too on my MkII. I had the 40mm pancake but gave it to my daughter. With it it doesn't even look like you have a lens mounted...
Old Edmundo wrote:
I have both the 1Dx2 and the 5D4 , Love them both.... (
When I was making my decision in August- September 2016 the 5D4 was still coming and the 7D2 was a couple years old. The MkII has almost the same MPs as the 5D3 which had been the Canon go to camera for many professional shooters. So, you could get similar MPs with 14-16 FPS. The MkII has better video capabilities than the 5D4. Since I had a 1D MkIII I was used to that size, form and functional layout. If I would buy a 7D2 or 5D4 I would add a vertical grip and extra batteries. At the time that would have made the price about $4k vs $6k between the MkII and the 5D4.
One thing I did consider was getting both the 5D4 and 7D2 for about the same money as the MkII. But I prefer to have a single body...just my choice.
The MkII also has a ton of processing power for focus and moving data. It also has 360k and 200plus zones sensor for metering and does an amazing job of matrix metering even in difficult conditions. It is also rated for 400k shutter actuations and built for rugged use.
Bottom line is any camera is a compromise in one way or another. There are different choices for different reasons and every body will be eclipsed down the road. If they had full touch screen capabilities like the 5D4 it would be even better. I think that could be implemented within the software but don’t expect it to be. The button layout is easy to learn and duplicated in both horizontal and vertical grip layouts.
If I was a professional sports shooter or shot in ... (
I have had my MkII since October 2016. I have no regrets. I consider it the Canon low light champ. I want only one body that can do most any shooting I need. It is big and heavy but that can be an advantage in some respects such as balancing the weight of larger lenses. It is a tank build wise and I prefer the built in vertical grip and controls. It really comes down to what you want to do with it. The 5D4 would be my second choice and it will be interesting to see what a 7D3 might offer too when that comes along.
Start at ISO 100-200, f/5.6 to f/7.1 and 1/125 to 1/200 and see if this will kill all the ambient light. Then your flash will be providing all the light if you kill the ambient light. If your flash is not powerful enough to shoot the longer distance shots with these settings you may have to use some of the existing fluorescent ambient light as part of your exposure. Perhaps increasing your ISO to do it. The fluorescent light will likely be at a different Kelvin temp than your flash. Many flashes are close to daylight white balance. You would probably need to tell your flash to match the flash light to the in room fluorescent light. I am sure you can find some YouTube videos to help you out. And experiment beforehand if you can.
I still have a couple 256 mb CF cards around I might be willing to sell you. You can get 6-10 images on each card...
Mark Bski wrote:
I need a larger memory card in my camera.
I believe it is all still done with skill, practice and radio calls by the leader.
Well worth seeing the Blue Angels or Thunderbirds if you get the chance...
Yikes! Makes me wonder if they are the ones that pioneered the accident-avoidance systems we have in our cars.
Awesome planes, awesome shots!!!
Thanks for sharing...
Are those Super Hornets now...
Does your 5D4 body have high ISO noise reduction in the menus and was it turned on? You might also think about using the Canon DPP software for noise reduction in pp.
Sirui carbon fiber is around $100 and is very nice for the money. I used one for a while but then went to a Gitzo.