I own the Sunwayfoto GH-PROii+. The "plus" version differs from the original GH-PROii that you (OP) mentioned in that the "+" version has an additional geared adjustment in the top portion of the head to allow for micro-adjustments in the panning movement at the top of the head. Of course you can still pan from either the base or the upper head with the non-+ version, but it's nice to have that extra geared knob at the top for small panning adjustments. Other than that it is the same as the non-+ version with the same max load. I could not find the + version on BH nor Amazon, but got mine at Adorama. If you're considering the GH-PROii, you might want to also look at the + version. It's a little bit more money ($55 more at Adorama) but I think that extra geared adjustment for the panning motion is worth it.
Now, as to the question of whether it would work with a "DSLR" (unspecified weight) and a Tamron 150-600. The advertising on Adorama says load capacity up to 10 lbs (I know the published specs says 8.0 lbs). I can only tell you that I have used it with my R5 with a Sigma 150-600 attached and it seems to handle that set up with no issues, even when the lens is fully zoomed out. (I mount it on the lens foot not the camera to keep the CG a bit closer to center) I'll attach a picture of this setup. My combo, with an EF-RF adapter on the lens and ProMediaGear L-bracket attached, weights about 6.2 lbs, which is within the 10lbs advertised max load (and even within the 8.8 max load in the spec sheet). I would suggest that you look at the weight of your specific camera and lens combo. If it is within the advertised weight I'd think you should be ok, but as others have suggested, you might want to make sure you can return it if not completely happy.
Now, that said, I would suggest that a geared head is probably not the best choice for a large zoom lens. Yes, I have used it, but honestly I prefer using my gimbal or a sturdy ball head with my big Sigma lens. I really purchased the gear head for landscapes with much smaller lenses. Yes, I have had the larger lens on the GH-PROii+ and didn't have any particular issues, but I'd really be concerned about the long term effect on the wear and tear on the gears.
I hope this helps.
I just learned that one of my favorite landscape night sky photographers and YouTube personalities, Alyn Wallace, has passed away. Don’t know the details, but he was a fairly young guy. Really sad to hear this news.
I learned a great deal from his channel about milky way photography and even bought two of his Z-brackets sold through MSM. His Milkyway videos were always well done and informative.
CHG_CANON wrote:
What caused you to buy a camera? What caused you to buy your lens or lenses? What are your interests? Do you view the Photo Gallery here at UHH or other photography sites for ideas and inspiration?
Some people might like certain seasons more than others, say flowers and insects that kind of need to wait for warmer weather. Others might like people over animals. But really, you must know yourself enough at this stage of life to know what / where your interests reside.
What caused me to buy my first “real” camera, with interchangeable lenses (Canon T-70), was being stationed at a very remote location overseas. I felt that getting into photography, and trying to actually learn the craft, would be a great way to make the 2 years on a mountain top go by faster.
As I’m driving or walking around, I’m constantly looking around and asking myself how I could frame things for a photograph. I consider what sorts of interesting perspectives I could use to make what may otherwise be a boring subject more interesting. I’m always taking pictures in my minds eye, even when I don’t have a camera.
I recently upgraded from a so-so Sirui tripod to this ProMedia Gear. While it is very tall with all four leg sections extended, with only the first three sections extended it is the perfect height for me (I’m 5’10). But in rough, rocky terrain it’s nice to be able to extend one or two legs more to compensate). This is hands down the best tripod I’ve ever use.
https://youtu.be/SFg5HEQ7ZBw?si=HaKUVblT4SNYQLA-
joecichjr wrote:
Nice shooting, Basil 🖤🖤🖤
Thanks but those were jkm757's shots, not mine. Here is one of mine from 2017 (actually a composite of 10 shots at different shutter speeds)
In case this might be useful for someone else. I’m shooting the upcoming eclipse with twin R5s. One with a 150-600 Zoom for close up/ corona shots and the other with a wider angle to capture a scenic shot. For the wide angle I have a Thousand Oaks filter which fits easily over the lens and is easy to pull on and off. However, my filter for the Zoom is a fairly expensive Firecrest 95mm glass screw-on filter (ND5.4=18 stops). In my practice sessions, I’ve found that it is difficult to mess with a screw on filter when removing and putting back the filter. I'm afraid if I only lightly screw it on, it might end up falling off at an inopportune time and frying my sensor. So, I had an old paper “DayStar” filter I had bought for 2017 that I wasn’t going to use. What I did was cut out the film from that filter and then use gaff tape to afix my glass filter into this paper filter. Now it’s very easy and fast to pop my glass filter on and off. Perfect solution.
Judy795 wrote:
My understanding from reading and watching numerous videos is that Bailey’s beads appear, then Diamond Ring, totality, 2nd Diamond Ring and 2nd Balileys Beads.
I am bracketing Baileys Beads from 1/1600 down to 1 or 1.5 seconds, and Diamond ring at 1/250 more or less. All at F/8 and 100 iso. I also have the eclipse app Solar Eclipse Timer, that alerts me to each phase, if it works.
I've seen many videos and descriptions that describe it exactly the opposite. Hence my confusion. For example, this site:
https://www.timeanddate.com/eclipse/diamond-ring.html which has a very good interactive eclipse map, describes it this way:
Quote:
As totality approaches during a total solar eclipse, the solar corona forms a faint ring around the Moon. Meanwhile, the Crescent Sun shrinks to a single, dazzling jewel of sunlight—producing the effect of a diamond ring in the sky.
Seconds later, the jewel of sunlight breaks up into points of light known as Baily’s beads.
cahale wrote:
How about everyone who photographs the next eclipse posts their results with equipment and settings. Pick the best and you have your guide. Hang on to it- there will be eclipses in the future.
I'll certainly do that. I probably won't be around to see another eclipse, so I'm asking for help now. This was my shot in 20217, but I didn't catch Baily's Beads or Diamond ring, which is what I'm asking about.
Orphoto wrote:
Pick 'em. As to the exposure difference, a 2/3 stop change if shooting raw just doesn't matter. I would err on the side of not overexposing, and hence choose the faster one.
Thanks. That's my inclination too WRT Baily's Beads (or maybe split the difference). But why such a slow shutter speed being suggested for the Diamond ring? That's what's really got me confused. Hoping someone with more experience than I, who has shot total eclipses before, explain that one to me. (I've only shot a total eclipse once - in 2017)
Conflicting / confusing exposure suggestions for Baily's beads. Also, confused about the Diamond Ring.
Two very prominent names in the solar eclipse photography world are Fred Espenak (Mr Eclipse) and Xavier Jubier (creator of solar eclipse timer software).
Fred has a suggested Eclipse settings chart where you pick your ISO and F-stop, then it suggests best shutter speed. Xavier has an online tool where you enter your ISO and f-stop and it suggests best shutter speeds.
For Baily's Beads, Fred's chart, at ISO 100 and f8, suggests a shutter speed of 1/4000th, but Xavier's tool suggests 2/3 stop faster at 1/6400 (note these speeds are with filter off).
For the Diamond ring, both the chart and the tool suggest the same: 1/125th
Discussion: What are your thoughts on the Baily's beads settings? would you shoot at 1/6400 (pretend you're using ISO 100 and f8) as Xavier's tool suggests, or would you slow the shutter speed to 1/4000 (which would move the exposure 2/3 to the right)? I'm conflicted. I will be shooting High Speed shutter and don't want to bracket because the R5 will only shoot the bracketed shots then stop unless you release the shutter and re-press it again, which I don't want to have to do.
Also: I'm a bit confused about what is called the "Diamond Ring" effect. Many resources seem to imply that the Diamond Ring is the bright bit just before Baily's beads, but then I've seen other resources that suggest that Baily's beads occurs just at the end of Baily's beads. In both Freds chart and Xavier's online tool, the recommended shutter speed is significantly slower than what they recommend for Baily's beads. This would suggest that they are referring to the latter definition of Diamond Ring" that would be at the end of the Beads and thus have less light. Otherwise, if the Diamond ring is what occurs before the Beads, why would you be shooting so much slower when there would be much more light? I'm confused. Thoughts?