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Mar 1, 2021 07:38:42   #
sudamar wrote:
Faststone is free and I have been using it lately, but I like what I hear about Affinty. I seem to be able to do everything with Faststone but wondering what Affintiy has over Faststone. Both have a RAW converter, right? Affinity is on sale now for half price and I'm thinking of getting it. Please let me know if you think it is better than Faststone as a photo editor. Thanks.


First, yes - you can process raw files in FastStone. Raw is what got me using it in the first place. I needed something that would let me open a raw file before I invested in a more advanced editor and FastStone did it. Furthermore, I have purchased multiple newer cameras over time and FastStone always opens the raw files from them - no messages about not recognizing the format. Just because a file contains more pixels does not mean the format of the raw file changed. That message from Adobe is just to get you to buy the latest version of whatever!

Affinity gives you the ability to do more creative things with the photo - gradient masks, layers, selections, etc. In short you can do most of what you can do in Photoshop. However, with that comes all of the complexity of learning what all those terms mean and how to use them! If you are getting the results you want from FS, you don't absolutely have to buy something "better". Do though send some money via PayPal to the creator of FS. It is an absolutely great piece of software!

I have Affinity and use it when I need something beyond Lightroom. I also have PS, but would love to know that some day I can cancel my subscription if money gets tight, so I use Affinity 99% of the time. That said, I now and then use FastStone to adjust a file, and I always have FS open because that is how I view the jpegs I export from Lightroom. It is so nice to just alt-tab over to FS and see how the jpegs look, set up a slide show, browse through libraries of photos, etc. I know there are capabilities in LR to do that, but it requires no brain power to just alt-tab and scroll!
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Jan 18, 2021 08:01:54   #
LCD wrote:
A not uncommon thing for me is to see a nice shot while driving, but there is no safe and convenient place to pull off. I wished I was in a motorbike and could pull off onto whatever meager strip of shoulder the road might offer me. Has any tried photography from a bicycle, motorbike or Vespa motor-scooter?


I carry my camera in a tank bag on my motorcycle. On the bicycle, I often use a messenger bag as my camera bag. When I stop, I can easily access the camera and shoot. I wear a modular (flip up full face) helmet on the motorcycle, so I can usually get the camera to my eye, but I can use live view if necessary.
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Dec 21, 2020 08:55:51   #
RE wrote:
I took this one last night, I’ve been trying for day this is my best so far.

Nikon D750
Tamron 150-600
600mm
1/60
F/6.3
ISO 800


Very nice! Here in the east, we have heard rumors that something like that is happening above the clouds :(
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Nov 23, 2020 08:43:16   #
Tea8 wrote:
Well I took the plunge and just ordered one of Peak Designs aluminum travel tripods. Hoping that I don't end up regretting the purchase since I went with the aluminum over the carbon fiber. I've had a Vanguard tripod for years that I absolutely love, mainly the pan-tilt head on it, but don't carry around much anymore simply because of it's size and weight.

I did a search and haven't seen any new posts about their travel tripods on here lately. So, any new feedback anyone wants to share while I wait for mine?

Oh, and if you didn't know, they have a Black Friday sale going on through mid week next week if there's anything of theirs you might want to pick up.
Well I took the plunge and just ordered one of Pea... (show quote)


I have the aluminum one. Love it. Somehow it feels heavier than it is. I think that it is because it is so compact that you expect it to weigh less based on looks. But it is sturdy, easy to use, and fits in my bag soooo well!
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Nov 23, 2020 08:40:24   #
Go when the lighting is better (early morning or evening depending on orientation of the subject). Some shadows will give it more depth. You can also enhance a little in LightRoom or whatever software you use to increase contrast (slightly).
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Nov 9, 2020 14:23:42   #
I have one in my pocket and a bunch in my camera bag in a small zipped bag that contained a backpacking towel originally. I put an elastic band around each charged battery. If I find one with no band, I know it is dead.
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Aug 17, 2020 13:27:12   #
User ID wrote:
That is waaaaaaaaaay off. Not half size, not 10MP. It’s quarter size and 5MP. You do recall this is about FF and m4/3 ???

Not meaning to single you out. Yours just happens to be the most recent posting of that idea. Nothing personal. Bogus math is a disease around here and apparently contagious in the extreme. UHH is pretty much the “Phlat Urph Photo Phorum”.


Thanks for correcting the math. I was thinking it was not half (some rule of square or whatever), but it does make the point even as I stated it. You make it even more clear that there is an advantage to using the crop sensor with the 300. Thanks!
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Aug 17, 2020 11:35:51   #
Gene51 wrote:
You need to qualify some of your statements.

Depth of field is less, not more, for a smaller sensor, at the same distance, aperture and focal length.

Spatial resolution will make the image from the larger sensor, even if the image is cropped to a lower pixel count.

All the sensor resolution in the world will not help a printed image from a smaller sensor - which has to be magnified considerably more than the same image from a larger sensor.

https://www.strollswithmydog.com/equivalence-sharpness-spatial-resolution/
You need to qualify some of your statements. br b... (show quote)


You are not magnifying anything. The size of the final print is determined by the information captured on the sensor. 20 MP contains much more info than our older 6 MP sensors. The sensor is just an analog to digital converter in a sense. I will concede that a better lens will produce a sharper image, but the Oly 300 is no toy.

Also, I believe that smaller sensors have greater DOF for a given aperture. Think of how it is nearly impossible to get a blurred background on a cell phone (tiny sensor) and how small an aperture you need to get great DOF on say an 8X10 view camera - some of those lenses had an F64 setting to get better DOF.
Remember, this is not film. Yes, with film a bigger negative could be enlarged more than a small one. My 20 mp olympus has no problem printing a 30 X 40 metal print with stunning sharpness.
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Aug 17, 2020 08:28:22   #
kenArchi wrote:
FF or 4/3, they are 300mm. And they are both 600mm.
4/3 say it is equivalent to FF 600mm.
Crop the FF 300mm from a FF camera by 1/2 and you have 600mm.

So don't FF cameras have better image resolution than smaller sensors?

And the Nikon 300mm is half, half the weight, half the price, and a little smaller than the Oly 300mm.

Does make sense?


Not correct.

If we call both cameras 20MP, then the cropped part of the Nikon image is half the size of the sensor, or 10 MP. If you want to print that, you have only half the pixels of the Oly version. On the Oly image, you can crop in closer and still retain a lot of pixels - crop by half as you did with the Nikon and you still have 10 MP. Crop the already cropped Nikon image by another half (to simulate what you did with the oly) and you have lost some serious resolution.

Also, mega pixels are mega pixels. Size does not matter in that case. Both cameras will have about the same resolution (assuming careful focus, camera handling, and the same glass quality of the lenses). The FF advantage is in noise control and depth of field (less for a given f-stop than the cropped sensor). That DOF difference might be against you when using FF if you are shooting landscape, but an advantage in portrait work.
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Jun 22, 2020 09:07:39   #
edmac wrote:
Hi my name is Edna Maclean I haven't been on here for a long time
I have windows 10 on my computer but I do not like the photo editing program they offer
are there any free photo editing programs out there very new at this on this new computer
any help would be welcome.


FastStone Image Viewer (and editor). Free and very capable. www.faststone.org
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Jun 1, 2020 11:24:13   #
b5white wrote:
I have an Oly OM D E M1 Mark2 that I PP raw files with the Olympus Workspace software. I don't know if it is my computer or the program but it takes forever to work on and edit the files. Does anyone use this program and find it as slow as I do. Considering changing to a different program.


Probably the software. I have tried it and found it, as you do, painfully slow. I stick with Lightroom.
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May 11, 2020 08:36:37   #
pjalper wrote:
Wish to print 11X14 (very large container ships entering L.A. harbor and Vincent Thomas bridge ove harbor at night). Mostly use Pixma for 8X10. Have no clue about paper supply, and feed into box. Thanks.


Turn printer on if not already on
In Lightroom, crop to 11 X 14
Launch Print Studio Pro (File|Plug In Extras|Canon Print Studio Pro)
Get a cup of coffee (just joking, but be patient - PSP takes a lonnnnng time to launch)
In Print Studio, under Print Settings, choose your paper, profile, and size. You will probably need to use the "Custom" button under Paper Size to get 11X14.
Adjust the border around the print by dragging sides to edge of easel
Print
When done, close PSP and choose another photo to print in LR. You cannot just open another file and if you try to print a second photo from LR without closing PSP, you will get an error message.

I have been using this workflow for a few years now and have consistently gotten great prints on the first try.
It is the only way I have used this printer where I can get satisfactory results. Wish it could be launched standalone instead of as a plugin.
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Apr 22, 2020 11:32:30   #
5dogsken wrote:
Can eye damage occur by viewing the sun through the electronic viewfinder on a mirrorless (Sony a6400) camera? Or would it be the same as viewing the sun on a TV? DO NOT view the sun through an optical viewfinder!!!!


No. The viewfinder cannot produce the amount of light that is emitted by the sun, so the brightest light from the viewfinder is the same as a blown out highlight.

Although I have heard that you can damage the sensor from the sun, so far I have been lucky. I have several times shot toward the sun without thinking about it and have purposely shot a welder at work, up close and personal. No damage that I can detect. I won't make a habit of it, since it might be a cumulative type of damage, but so far, no problem.

This advice does not apply to a DSLR since that is an optical system and it would be similar to looking at the sun through a telescope!
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Apr 22, 2020 11:21:25   #
Ed Chu wrote:
Have used Elements for 10 yrs; never used their Organizer; I accidentally pushed a button(s) and the photos disappeared into the Organizer; have no clue how to find those pictures - have Googled, but the answers don't help


I believe you can sort the organizer by date - descending order. If you do that, the most recent photos will be at the top of the organizer.

Personally, when I used PSE, I started at the organizer and only opened the ones that were worth the time to edit. It was also where I tagged them so I could later find all photos in the categories I had created. I think a lot of people don't take advantage of this powerful part of PSE that is what drove me to it in the first place.
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Apr 22, 2020 11:15:21   #
Jim70 wrote:
So, the problem could be either your conversion or the printer. To test this out, I'd suggest you send this image to a reputable commercial lab with instructions to print B&W, then compare.

I suspect a more advanced printer would also give better results.


Try Nations Photo. They will print a black and white on black and white paper and I have never had a bad print from them (color or monotone). Also, if you are mounting with a window overlay, you can order the print with a 1/4" border. I usually get the black border because I use window mats with a black core, so if I get one off slightly it will be less noticeable.
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