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Posts for: texashill
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Nov 29, 2021 15:25:46   #
thank you
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Oct 9, 2021 13:53:08   #
I skipped step 1. Step 2 was also not important for me but the rest of it was a game changer.
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Oct 9, 2021 13:50:16   #
Alphabravo2020 wrote:
I have been wondering if spot metering could be used to determine the dynamic range of the scene when shooting posed subjects in high contrast situations. I seem to be often unsatisfied with matrix metering to pick the ISO, especially when the sun or specular highlight is in the frame or the subject has dark skin, etc. I'm still not yet completely fluent on exposure and metering theory so I'd appreciate comments.

I'm thinking this could work several ways as long as the dynamic range of the scene is less than the dynamic range of the camera at the selected ISO:

Manual mode (AutoISO). Set aperture for scene. Choose shutter speed for scene, say, 1/125. Note ISO at brightest and darkest areas of the scene to be exposed. Calculate stops from ISO range. Turn AutoISO off. Set ISO at lowest metered scene ISO plus half scene dynamic range.

It would be cool if cameras had a mode/tool where it would ask you to point the spot meter at the darkest and brightest locations you want to be properly exposed and then choose for you the lowest ISO that would cover the range.

TIA
I have been wondering if spot metering could be us... (show quote)

The post below from Armadillo has helped me.


Armadillo Joined: Oct 4, 2011 Posts: 2549 Loc: Ventura, CA

Brian Roberts wrote:
I am currently doing interior photos for several local Realtors, and hope to get better results with some advice from UHH. I am using the Canon 5D with a 16-35 'L' lens, set up for aperture priority and post processing with LR5 and Photoshop. My goal is to allow exterior images such as green leaves, trees, etc. to appear through the windows, and believe that HDR might be the answer. Would anyone have any suggestions?


Brian,

You have a tough project in mind, there is a way to resolve your problem. HDR is one choice and will present its own problems.

Setting your camera up for Exposure Compensation is another, and possibly the better choice. Try the following in your own home first.
1. Set the camera up for one - three external flash units controlled by the camera hot shoe. This requires ETTL exposure control.
2. Pick a manual ISO where the flash output will illuminate the entire room ahead of the camera. (ISO = 200 - 400).
3. Set the camera mode control to "Program". This will allow the camera to control the exposure and flash independently.
4. Point the camera out the window, with the center spot exposure box targeted to the bright area (not the sky), and press the back button for exposure lock. This will set the shutter duration for correct exposure out the window.
5. Point the camera "Center Spot Focus" square on the wall to be included in the composition, depress the shutter button half way. This will set focus lock for the scene and set the flash output for the room. The flash output will be controlled by the light measurement of the flash coming (TTL) through the lens.
6. Re-compose the scene in the viewfinder, make sure the center spot metering square is not near the window. Press the shutter button all the way down to capture the scene.

The above recommendations are based on decades old photographic practices with film cameras, but with the addition of modern camera electronic measurements and controls.

Another option you can try for effects is to use Ev (Exposure Compensation Values). You can set the Ev to -.3 to -2Ev to reduce the exposure out the window. You can set the Flash Ev to any where between +2 to -2Ev for effect on the flash exposure.
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Jul 17, 2021 15:48:51   #
I thought about you when trying to turn my new phone on :-) I may not have a manual but do have my unglyhedgehog friends !
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Jul 6, 2021 14:53:11   #
I guess that sometimes iCloud is free and sometimes it is not? I don't know how that works. I was thinking of mostly using jpeg but for important photos use Apple ProRaw and transfer to my hard drive with Lightroom and other software.

I always wanted a full frame camera but could never justify the expense. Years ago I bought a Cannon G1 X Mark II with an APS size sensor; pretty large but not nearly full frame. I have been a reader of this great forum for many years. In the early years, I read time after time how powerful RAW was. I tried free trials of RAW processing software but for some reason they never worked with my Cannon. Finally, I just bought Lightroom; the one that stays on your hardrive and involves no continued expense. I needed to photograph the interior of a house that had no electricity. The dynamic range between an open window and unlit room was demanding. 8 years ago a poster ( thanks again Armadillo) on this great forum explained how to get the camera to control the exposure and flash independently. This helped but it wasn't until I shot in RAW and used Lightroom that I saw what my camera could really do. I was amazed to see what could be pulled out of black shadow.

I am certainly no expert; only have done some reading or youtube nowdays, but apparently these cell phone companies, Apple in particular, have devised ways to work around a small sensor size. I guess they take multiple photos and use pieces of each to solve dynamic range and other issues. I seem to remember programs that could do something like that with cameras but there were problems; don't remember what they were. So now with Apple ProRaw I am wondering if it will be amazing as was the experience with my Cannon was.

Currently, I use my iPhone 7+ for non serious photos and my Cannon for better quality and post processing. The cell phone is much easier and honesty, I am not sure that I can always see a difference. I know that for something like snapping a driver's license photo the cell phone is much easier to focus. I have a feeling my Cannon is about to be put, rather permanently, in a drawer :-)
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Jul 5, 2021 20:53:18   #
I guess a book would need to deal with Apple ProRaw. What do you guys do with it? Do you move to computer and use your old software tools or do you use an app? I don't really like doing much on my phone. I prefer to do things on computer; can see much better :-) but I guess the big 'ol pro max might change things for me.
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Jul 4, 2021 17:42:10   #
Anyone have a book that they have read and recommend on iPhone 12 pro max photography ? I dropped my 7 plus and have ordered it's replacement.
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Jan 17, 2021 12:11:06   #
Colosij wrote:
I value burkphoto's informative responses


no kidding; he has been a treasure for years
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Nov 18, 2020 12:25:05   #
https://www.cnet.com/how-to/apple-iphone-12-pro-proraw-photos-everything-to-know-about-new-raw-picture-file/
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Oct 28, 2020 11:07:01   #
Fstop12 wrote:
I suspect that on most Smartphones today you can attach a specific lens. Currently I have a 60mm Moment lens for my IPhone 8 plus. I haven't used it much but when I do, the phone is mounted on a tripod to help prevent image shake. In my opinion, DSLR's with specific telephoto lenses are the best choice for wildlife photography.


I imagine that DSLR's with specific lens is best for ALL photography :-) but we are here to close the gap and I surely do appreciate your effort and want to join others in expressing thanks. Image shake is another issue that came to my mind, along with small sensor size, when considering smartphone photography. I have an iphone 7 plus and have only used the camera for messaging but have never noticed a blur the way that I can get with my regular camera. I figured it must be set on a fast shutter speed. All I know is that a phone does not feel nearly as stable in my hand as does a camera and I wonder if image shake is going to be an issue?
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Oct 28, 2020 10:53:05   #
Marianne M Banks wrote:
Thank you for starting this section Fstop12.
I’m looking forward to learning a lot and having fun.
I’m currently using an old iPhone 6s and in the process of deciding between a 12 pro vs 12 pro max.
Any input regarding the decision?


Hi Marianne, I believe that the 12 pro max will have RAW processing and the others will not. I went for years reading on this forum about the power of RAW and ignoring the advice. Then one day I tried it. I am a realtor and was taking interior photos of a foreclosed house that had no electricity; very challenging dynamic range :-) I was shocked to see the shadow areas become enlighten in post processing. My Cannon G1 X Mark II with 18x14 sensor was now MUCH more powerful! I am not an expert and have come here to learn and not to teach but I believe that the big issue with smartphone photography will be how to work around the small sensors. I believe that Apple will have great resources to cleverly design around that limitation. 12 pro max sensor is 47% larger, it has RAW processing, it has Lidar. I don't even know what Lidar is but the others don't have it and I just get the vibe that it will be an important difference. Hopefully, some of the true experts that we are blessed to be posting with will comment.
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Oct 28, 2020 10:36:40   #
To me, the fact that cell phones have modest mega pixel specs is a plus. I believe that it better utilizes the comparatively small sensor and I don't need large images. Occasionally, I will see a bird or deer in the yard that I would like to shoot and closely crop. Big mega pixels would be good then but I suppose that some phones have lenses that can be attached?
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Oct 27, 2020 14:50:25   #
I'm excited. I have always wanted a better camera but I am not a pro and can't justify the price. I have monitored this site for years and know that many very smart and helpful people post. I have never considered my cell phone for taking my best photos but from what I read iPhone 12 Pro Max is a big change. The sensor size is very large for a cell phone but still small in comparison. Perhaps Apple can design around this limitation; 12 mp, Lidar(whatever that is), RAW processing? I am due for a new phone and can justify reaching for the upgrade. As Burk points out, the cell phone is ascending now and in the foreseeable future. Any skill learned now should be applicable to the future in a way that I am not sure skill using a one-trick pony will carry forward for an increasing number of people like me. Admittedly, "people like me" doesn't describe the great experts on this forum. I am not knowledgeable enough to know what percentage still need the one-trick pony or be able speculate how many will need the one-trick pony ten years from now but others are that knowledgeable and I look forward to reading :-)
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Oct 17, 2019 12:06:26   #
You have a better camera than I do but your post reminds me of my experience. I tried free trial subscriptions for a few different software products for RAW processing. None of them were really usable for me; some looked like I was shooting through a pipe. Lightroom was different. Lightroom processed usable files for me. I bought the one that does not have an annual subscription; that was a few years ago. I was amazed at how I could now pull images out of shadow and overblown highlights. My four thirds sensor was made much more powerful. I did some searching and found free tutorials from Anthony Morganti. He suggested heavy use of the shadow and highlight sliders. It was like getting a new camera!
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Jul 30, 2019 11:24:33   #
After upgrading to Topaz 2, I was very surprised to see all of the adjustments that I now have. I only had Precision Contrast and Dehaze that I paid for before but it appears that I have them all now. AI clear is incredible.
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