You pose a topic that sooner or later everyone has to confront. For years I carried a canon monster, generally with the strap on my shoulder, not around my neck. You have been given several ideas for straps which distribute the camera's weight well in most cases, but eventually all straps, in my opinion, get to be difficult to work with particularly if you do "fast" shooting and need to get the camera to your eye in a hurry.
I finally changed systems to the Fuji and have not had a problem since. Yes, as others have noted, you may lose a little with the crop sensor, but, and it's a big but, with Fuji's excellent lenses, you can still enlarge to 11x16 without any noticeable loss of sharpness etc. And if you use a professional organization for enlarging, they can do some correction if the image begins to fall apart. I selected Fuji because it has a great selection of lenses, and you can taylor make you system over time, one piece at a time. Some argument exists among the "super" pros re: full frame, and for what they do to earn their keep, they are probably correct. However, in the long run, most of the pros I know are slowly turning to the mirrorless
and using the full frame for "special shooting" and argue that most folks can not tell the difference between full and crop except in that special occasion when enlargements need to be very large. Steve

Great pictures from my home town. The Maritime Academy was not there when I was growing up. It was established by the same folks which founded and developed Northwester Michigan College, a community college with high regard. It has placed many students "on board" commercial vessels throughout the country, with their "ticket" and a career plan to work themselves up to officer status.

This debate has been going on for some time. Those in the know, i.e., those who have actually worked with a 10mm, would probably tell you to use the hood if outside in daylight; inside questionable depending upon room lighting. The problem is that you really don't know what you are going to contend with until you begin to shoot. My rule of thumb: purchase a 10 mm with a hood, keep it in your equip bag, then it's available if needed. A hood also is a great protection against lens damage through general usage. Better than a uv filter cuz it has a duel purpose. Steve

The Fuji X system is very much in play. Check out DPR for reviews.

If you want to try the Fuji X system, the kit lens is the 18-55mm stabilized, and it is excellent! Rave reviews from all quarters. Go to DPR for a review. Steve

Welcome to the real world of photography. It's experiment, experiment, experiment. Keep a small note book on things that worked, and things you did that did not work, at least according to your eye. Note IS0, f stop and shutter speed. After a while, you will really know the connection between you, your eye, and your camera. . . .Steve

There you go!! Good shot. Now try opening that lens up all the way, and adjust the other settings to compensate, and you will get some very smooth backgrounds. These type of shots almost dictate that you move the background out of focus, and you will end up a nice photo suitable for framing unless you want to picture the entire garden. . . . Steve

Since you were using a zoom, next time try stepping back a couple of steps and frame with the lens. It is my experience that most photogs do not get tight enough to the subject. You are the opposite, a little too close. What would happen if you physically moved a little to the left or right, then pulled back a few steps? For this type of subject matter, I move around a wee bit taking lots of shots. . . Steve

Next time try a timed exposure with camera on a tripod . . .Steve

Did you crop in post processing or naturally in the camera? For me the frame is a little tight. Nice smooth out of focus background which might be better if you loosened up the frame. I like the color rendition. Nice image. . . .Steve

I second the entry on the Fuji X-e2 plus the kit lens. A couple of things in its favor. 1) the logic of settings does not boggle the mind. 2). The x-e2 has outstanding color rendition which Fuji, also a producer of film is known for. 3) If you want to continue to build a system, Fuji has a complete lens package, something the others don't. 4) The kit lens (18-55) is extremely sharp and has received rave reviews from Pros as well as amateurs, and it is the type of lens you can put on the camera and leave it there for all-around shooting. 5) The electronic view finder (EVF) is very good, but has one drawback: you will need a 3X ND filter with the kit lens for bright sun light shooting because it stops down so it is hard to see. Can use the rear lcd which is very good. I have been using this camera for about a year, have purchased additional lenses, and find this is a great carry-arround-all-the time camera. Finally, there is a very good instruction book out on the X-e2 which can be found on Amazon. . . .Steve

Thanks. I am looking for a bag for two Fuji bodies plus lens plus stuff. I'll look at the one you mentioned. Steve

I am interested in which bag you selected. Steve

The meter debate will go on forever which is probably a good thing because we all might learn a new twist. Two things: 1) If you have questions about your camera's meter, check the camera's review on a site such as DPR. They always check out the meter's quality on their camera reviews. 2) If you are doing close up work, or general macro work, an incident light meter may be better then the one in your camera. But that is a judgement call on my part. Many of the above are correct: today's cameras have excellent light meters and will match any light meter except for the incident types (measures incoming light on a subject). Steve

"A" setting together with a medium high ISO like 400 or 800 is a good place to start learning the 100s. Then begin to vary the lens opening or the shutter speed tp understand what the camera does. Take lots of shots; you always can delete them if not keepers: it's not expensive like film was years ago. While doing this, one at a time, vary your white balance, and the dynamic range in the basic default setting using the "Q" button. Take lots of shot to see what is happening. Then vary the film simulations from default settings through the entire offering while taking lots of shots. Do all this stuff in all degrees of daylight outside. Try the 3-stop ND filter from the Q settings. Then begin to vary the f-stop one opening at a time leaving the shutter speed on A. The vary your shutter speeds, one position at a time living the f-stop on A. Once you have an idea of these setting, then start over with A and go inside with a higher ISO like 1000 or 2000. Also use the pop up flash. 4 or 5 months of this will pretty much teach you what the 100s can do. . . . Steve