*Newer cars, not just new. Ford's Sync 3 began offering this in 2017. Others probably did too.

Keep it up, Jerry, and your epitaph will read, "But- but- but I was following GPS!"

GPS is indeed a good tool (not great), but you need to review its recommendations. Haven't you read accounts of hapless travelers who, blindly following GPS, ended up stranded on a snowy road, or of a big rig stuck on a lonely dirt trail? Some have had deadly outcomes.

I must say, I couldn't agree more. That was cogent, kind, and-- well, perhaps the best reply I've ever read anywhere on the Hog.

This restriction generates heat, and something will fail when it gets bad enough. Sometimes it's the cord, and sometimes it's the device.

I didn't write anything about burning up an outlet, same or otherwise. My mention of an outlet was in describing a scenario where the failing appliances could be sharing limited watts with some other household device. Such a limitation could cause the appliances to burn up.

Had you even a fundamental understanding about what I wrote, you'd agree that restricting watts (amps and/or volts) to an electronic device often burns up the device (or restrictive wiring that supplies it).

The OP could have any number of issues. Based on the info given, I suspect a low wattage issue, but of course I'm not certain. It's just a plausible scenario. I wouldn't even say probable, but since it's an easy check, I'd start there.

***ALERT***

First and foremost, DO NOT open up and poke around inside the microwave oven's sealed electronics. All of them have a capacitor that can stay charged for days after the oven is unplugged, and the capacitors can have enough of a charge to kill you.

Three appliances burning up on the same outlet is not a coincidence (extraordinarily bad luck maybe, but I doubt it). I also doubt that it's a problem of too-high voltage, as that should burn up an appliance rather quickly. Rather, I suspect voltage that is too low, and surely that low voltage is transitory. Perhaps the outlet is on the same circuit as the air conditioner or some other device, and rarely do they operate simultaneously. Devices do not have to be on the same outlet to be on the same circuit.

You probably know not to use a cheap extension cord with power-hungry electronics. This is because the cord won't allow enough electricity (amps, or derived watts) to flow to the device. This restriction generates heat, and something will fail when it gets bad enough. Sometimes it's the cord, and sometimes it's the device. Now replace "extension cord" with "house wiring" in what I just wrote. Count your blessings; your devices burned up, and not your house.

Please do have a qualified electrician investigate, as surely there's an issue.

They are here on the Hog, too.

I use YouTube for so many things. I'm a DIY kind of guy, but I certainly am not a know-it-all. I've learned how to repair my oil furnace, pickup truck, make various home repairs, and more. Before I undertake a project or repair I've not done before, I'll find a YouTube video or two to watch first. Who wouldn't use such a vast (and free) resource?

But specific and relative to this site, I've learned most of what I know about post processing on YouTube. Photoshop especially, but even Lightroom. I've kept up with new features through a few YouTube channels I follow. Anthony Morganti is one such channel.

I used to carry gaffer's tape. Unlike electrical tape (or duct tape), it leaves no sticky residue even under the worst conditions.

A couple of wide rubber bands. I used to carry filter "wrenches," but I've found that rubber bands work just as well to remove a stuck filter.

Why not tell us it runs on electricity? That'd be about as useful as saying it's a core i7, has 32gb of RAM, and that it uses an ASUS mobo. Core i7 has been around for about 15 years. Is the RAM at least DDR4? And I had an ASUS motherboard back when Moby Dick was a minnow. Are the SSDs SATA or NVMe M.2?

Now that I'm done with my critique (you make it so easy sometimes, Jerry), I'll say that I've never paid retail for a Micro$oft license. Back in the day, I got them at "computer swap meets" in the greater LA area of SoCal. After escaping Commiefornia 20 years ago, I at first got them from eBay sellers who cleverly sold a Windows license with a piece of PC hardware, such as a motherboard, to skirt eBay's restrictions against OEM license keys. But the sellers said in their listings that the accompanying hardware was not functional and that they'd have to charge for shipping. Instead, they said, a buyer could opt for no hardware and email shipping of the key only and pay no shipping charge. I bought many keys from such sellers for $5-$10.

Alas, eBay no longer allows even that. Any listing for an OEM key is now removed promptly, no matter how it's presented. But fret not. A simple online search will reveal countless OEM key sellers. Many accept PayPal, which is a wise choice when dealing with unfamiliar online entities. Even the popular YouTuber PC Builder advertises an online OEM key seller. Going rate today is $20 or less for Windows 10 (or 11) and around $25-$30 for a Micro$oft Office suite.

For grins & giggles, I just searched eBay for a Windows 10 key. Yup, there are still sellers listing them, but they'll not complete a transaction on eBay. They know the listing will be removed in minutes, so they list their website and ask that buyers go there directly. I bought one or two keys that way a few years ago, but nowadays I just online-search for Windows keys and choose a US-based seller that accepts PayPal.

both

It's been a few years, but I always preferred the Big Cottonwood resorts (Brighton and Solitude) over Alta and Snowbird. Now, I'm stuck with Mammoth, June, and all the Tahoe resorts for a day-trip. I know, I have it rough.

But yeah, Alta is awesome.

Light loss depends on the type of polarizer. A stop or two is accurate for a standard CPL, but less than a stop can be had with a high-transmission CPL.

I've moved up from standard CPLs to the high transmission flavor. I own several because I, like the OP, keep one on my outdoor lenses most of the time. I don't like moving them between lenses. Most of my shooting is outdoors where a CPL is useful. I don't keep a filter on my 16mm lens (a CPL wouldn't work well) or my 24-70mm (I use it only indoors).

Heliopan, Breakthrough Photography, B+W, and K&F Concept are my brands (yeah, I'm as loyal as a two-bit hooker). My K&F Concept True Color Nano-X Series is the best bang for the buck -- it's a surprisingly good filter for around sixty bucks.

There are inexpensive filters out there, but whatever you do, don't put a low-quality filter in front of good glass.

Wow. Feel better now? Go pull wings off flies or something that better suits your kind.

Oooh, good one, except that I did post it here. I just didn't put the link in my initial post to prevent it from being moved to the "Links and Resources" wasteland. Most people get that. Sorry you didn't.