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Jun 27, 2017 16:17:53   #
mikeroetex wrote:
I used to shoot jpeg because of limited buffer size on my D7100 and later D7200. But since getting the D500, I shoot RAW. Does take a little more post processing time, but helps if I have any white balance issues from changing light conditions.


And that's only of a very few cameras that CAN shoot at full frame rate, while continuously recording Raw files.

Most of us commoners have much lesser camera bodies, and appreciate the faster frame rates/longer bursts that come from shooting jpeg.
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Jun 27, 2017 16:00:59   #
Linary wrote:
All photolife is balanced on "50%" grey. (This 50% varies all over the shop, but most shades of grey work well - even better if you can use the same grey each time as in a grey card.) If you use a white card, you could easily be trying to achieve white balance by using an overblown white, this does not work well


Never seen a '50%' grey card.
All the ones I know of are 17-18%.
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Jun 27, 2017 15:59:11   #
dangriss wrote:
Just one thought on your original question.

Shoot sports shots in JPEG only. While you lose the flexibility of RAW, you will gain shots. The camera will bog down writing the RAW files to the card, shortening the length of your photo "string".

Otherwise RAW is the best choice.


The vast majority of cameras shoot faster/longer bursts with jpegs, rather than Raw or Raw/jpg.
So, that's why almost every sports action photog shoots ONLY jpeg.

The D500 is an exception. It can shoot at full rate, continouously, Raw files, using a 2033x XQD card.
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Aug 16, 2015 19:29:45   #
Very nice!
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Aug 16, 2015 19:28:40   #
Seriously over exposed, probably when you made the digital copy. I'll bet the original isn't blown out.

OTW, nice shot.
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Aug 9, 2014 20:38:36   #
On my monitor, they look a little overexposed, and a definite blue cast.
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Aug 9, 2014 19:51:29   #
tschmath wrote:
I use a Mac all-in-one, and I have no idea how to calibrate the monitor, if that's even possible. Anyone know about this?


ANY monitor can be 'calibrated'.
It's not actually the monitor, but the setup file for the display that gets changed.
Spyder and ColorMunki both have Mac software to do that.
Even projector's and TV's can be calibrated.

Calibrating your monitor is the biggest thing you can do to get a better handle on printing issues like brightness and color balance.
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Aug 9, 2014 19:40:16   #
Doowopa wrote:
Thanks for the reply
I'm not sure you understood the problem.

My pictures all print fine.
except for these cloud pics.

When I print them the sky prints dark blue, if I lighten it the sky prints grey.
If it's the printer why do all of my other pics print fine ?
there is something about these files I'm missing, i was hoping someone else would have a clue.

Thanks again.


What PP software are you using?
What printer?
Is the printer or the software doing the color management? Make sure it's only one of them, not both.
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Aug 9, 2014 19:37:46   #
What you're forgetting, is that LightRoom 5.x is also included for the $9.99/mo. And several other programs I, myself, don't have any interest in.
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Aug 9, 2014 19:22:58   #
Winterbabybear wrote:
How many times can you re-format a memory card before it is no longer any good?


Formatting the card is not the measure of it's lifespan. It's the erasing of individual cells that's the determining factor. The cards themselves have, as part of their circuitry, a load leveler. That is, they never use the same cells twice in a row. And the lifetime of a card is in the 10's of thousands of erase cycles.
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Jul 13, 2014 19:11:22   #
Wahawk wrote:
The 'Sunny 16' rule is a great starting point!! Just imagine you are shooting a subject at 'high noon' and use those settings for good exposure of the moon if there are no clouds or fog in front.


Actually, it's the 'Looney 11' rule.
At f11, the shutter speed should be 1/ISO.
I found a discussion of the rule over here:
http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TRIPOD/TRIPOD4.HTM
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Jul 13, 2014 19:07:36   #
dcampbell52 wrote:
Actually, the Nikon D7100 has a database of lens adjusts also. the D5300 and below do not.
In the D7100, If I am reading the question correctly, it is in the AF fine tune under setup.

And I can save up to 9 non-cpu lens datas.
Not sure if that is what you were referencing or not.


You're correct, I forgot about that model.
And I DID say 'recent', since my D200's and D2Xs don't have it either.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:27:20   #
Dupe post.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:27:06   #
Mr PC wrote:
This is one reason I will need to move up from the D5200 eventually. Can't believe that you need a better body to calibrate focus. Live and learn. I feel a case of G.A.S. coming on fast!


Sorry, but focus calibration is a pro level feature.
Your D5200 is definitely NOT pro level.
You need a recent 1 or 3 digit model number for pro features.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:26:46   #
Mr PC wrote:
This is one reason I will need to move up from the D5200 eventually. Can't believe that you need a better body to calibrate focus. Live and learn. I feel a case of G.A.S. coming on fast!


Sorry, but focus calibration is a pro level feature.
Your D5200 is definitely NOT pro level.
You need a recent 1 or 3 digit model number for pro features.
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