I shoot the D850, and I wanted the high frame rate of the D500... so I added the grip and went from 7 to 9 frames per sec. No it is not the D5, but much closer, and it has the DR that is very helpful. The D850 will never be a D5, but it is pretty close. As for mirrorless... the technology is coming, but it is not here yet... maybe in 5 years will it be what a D850 or D5 are at that time... but it still needs time. Just my opinion, which is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
David, i dont have the D7100, but did have the D7000 and I do believe that your camera does have an equivalent setting to the D7000 and the D800 called Exposure Delay. On the D800 it is D4, and it is not the self timer. it needs to be set to off otherwise it will impose a 1, 2, or 3 second delay on all shots. Just go in and set it to off and I suspect that all will be good!
Kelly
How about the Note App already on your phone? I use this all of the time.
Kelly
I might suggest that you consider the Nikon 200-500 mm. yes it is more money than you spent on your camera, but that is normal for quality. No the 200-500 is not the most expensive lens even if it might look like it at first. A really good wildlife lens will cost you $10,000 US dollars or more where as the 200-500 is around $1400. If you wanted something a little less expensive maybe you would look at a used 300 F4... but it just depends on what kind of quality you want and how much you want to pay for it. I was where you are at one time. I got the D70 and the 70-300 and it was ok, then I bought the 70-300 VR... and it was better... then I bought the 70-200 and when I added that all up, I had spent about $2700 instead of $1700 which was the cost of the best lens that I was considering... and mind you this was in 2006-7. I am saying this only so that you dont buy the lens that is cheapest and then rebuy a cheap lens again and again only to spend more than you would have if you had bought the right lens first.
kelly
I am a Nikon guy, but my best friend shoots a canon, and he really likes his 17-40mm no vignetting and does not have the fish eye look. if you go much wider, you will see some horizon bending occur. I am certain that the 16-35 would work, but I dont know its quality, but i would be suspect of something in the 11 to even the 15 mm range... they start to bend somewhere in that neighborhood!
Kelly
for a nikon lens, you need the correct Nikon TC... for a Tamron lens, you need the correct Tamron TC. The tamron TC might fit the Nikon lens, but it will work best on a tamron lens... a Nikon TC will only fit a Nikon Lens. So if you have different brands of lenses... you need different TC's
kelly
If you have the xmp file set to be saved then you could delete the lightroom filmstrip at the bottom of the screen but do not delete the catalog. And further, only delete the filmstrip if you have the xmp files saved. if the xmp file is not saved then you have to reprocess every image. Now that all said, if you delete the filmstrip, then you can reimport all of the images and you will have a new film strip... but will this fix your issue? You say that your catalog is all screwed up... but that does not explain what is actually wrong... so I dont know if this is even a viable solution to your problem. truly you need to explain your situation and exactly what is wrong much more completely before we can really help you.
Kelly.
I believe that you will find that win 7 does not have a codec for the D850... if you can find one, install it and all should be well.
Kelly
Lester Dine 105 f2.8 is the dental macro of the best!
Kelly
I like my tamron 17mm spII (an old manual focus lens) but I also like my 20-35 f2.8 AF. they are both very sharp. If I had the money for the 14-24, I would consider it, but would want to shoot it first. I would also consider nikon 16-35... there is no magic lens, just one that does what you want it to on your D850. When i got my 850, I was told that I would have to replace all of my glass as the D850 was so demanding... (salesman said that...) he was looking to sell glass. I shoot a lot of older high quality glass, and the D850 does very well with them. just decide what focal length you want and then rent/barrow/test a few lenses in that range and you will know what you want! I can tell you all day what is my favorite, but you may not like it for one reason or another... I know that a lot of people love the 18-200 nikon... I bought one and hated it, but everyone told me how great it was, so thinking that I got a bad copy, I bought a second one... I should have saved my money and bought a real lens... that is how our opinions can very and yours will as well. try some out!
kelly
Fotoartist wrote:
Never heard of this. It's a large zoo. Lots of room. I'll be going next week with my cart, lenses, and tripod. My objection are the obstructions such as cut branches, loose logs, and debris that they place in the exhibits so the animals can hide behind. Some people answer with, how would you like to be on display all day? I say, I thought this was a zoo not an animal sanctuary. I've just spent $25 with parking to come in and see, photograph, and support the upkeep of, the animals. Maybe I will stay away next time? Is that what you want?
Never heard of this. It's a large zoo. Lots of roo... (
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I whole heartedly agree... but that is their way of doing things... I hope that you have better results than I did.
Kelly
Fotoartist wrote:
The only place tripods are not allowed in the Detroit Zoo is in the Butterfly exhibit.
You are correct that these are the zoo rules... however, I have been asked more than once to not even bring my tripod into the zoo. When I tell them that the rules state that it is only the butterfly's where one can not use the tripod, they have told me that I need to take it back to my car because they are changing the rules... just a heads up. They simply are not a tripod/mono pod friendly place, and I no longer even bother to take it in with me.
kelly
jcboy3 wrote:
Use the 55-200 and stick it right up against the obstruction. Shoot between bars; shoot through holes in chain-link fence. Shoot at your fastest aperture. Try to shoot at maximum focal length.
Shoot where the obstructions are in the shade; sunlight on the obstruction will cause flare and make them more visible.
Also, try to shoot while the animals are well away from the obstructions. The closer they get, the more resolved the obstructions become.
If you can't get really close to the obstructions, then you need a faster lens. Shallow DOF is needed to avoid the obstructions resolving in your image. I only shoot with lenses that are f/2.8 or faster. You might try renting a 70-200 f/2.8 lens.
Finally, at some zoos I have been able to use a monopod to raise the camera above the fence. Your camera is really not suitable for this. You need a tilt screen and remote shutter control as a minimum (so you can see where your pointing and shoot when you need to). But better is a camera with wireless remote control; I have a bracket that attached to the monopod and holds my iPhone. I can see the camera view on the iPhone, focus, adjust settings, and shoot.
I would not try this with a rental; you need time to figure this out. But you can easily do this with a modern compact camera. I have a Panasonic LF1 that shoots RAW, has WiFi control. I would check first with the zoo, to see if this is allowed.
Use the 55-200 and stick it right up against the o... (
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silverman, jcboy has just about covered things here... I would only add that renting a 70-200 f2.8 would be a great idea. I live about 45min north of the detroit zoo and so get there a few times each year. in May, you will find that there are a huge number of school children (several thousand each day) that will often be in your way or making it difficult to get the best angle to avoid the flare/glare/reflections of the chain and or glass. The fastest glass is at best in the detroit zoo your only real help. also, if you need additional light, make sure that your shoot at a 45 degree angle or less when ever glass is present. the closer to 90 degrees that you get the more reflection that you will have. There are several areas however that do not have any glass or fence in the way, and those should be maximized... the pond that is near to the reptiles, amphibians and the otters had several wood ducks about 1 month ago. the pond over near the polar bear will often have ducks, blue heron, and even some night heron in or around it as well as night heron in the polar bear exhibit.
one last thing, the Detroit zoo will not allow you to use a monopod or tripod... your all on your own. sorry!
I hope that this is of some help.
Kelly
underexposure will nearly always cause significant noise... at least 99.99999% of the time.
Kelly
a6k wrote:
I meant to give the URL for this but somehow I lost it.
"After ingest, I perform editing in Photo Mechanic. The reason Photo Mechanic is used for editing instead of Lightroom is that it's far faster to load and render RAW files. Unlike Lightroom, which will by default render its own image preview for every image, Photo Mechanic uses the built-in JPG of RAW files, which dramatically cuts down on processing time needed to display each image. "
My point here is that using the embedded jpg defeats the goal immediately.
I meant to give the URL for this but somehow I los... (
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You are correct that PHoto mechanic uses the built in jpeg for viewing which makes it very fast, but this is not the case for processing... nor has it ever! it only processes the Raw image when outputting to jpeg.
Kelly