Looks like it is sold!

Thanks!

I am selling my Sekonic L-478DR Lightmeter with all the accessories that came with it. I am including the optional 5 degree spot attachment and the X-Rite Passport ColorChecker that has both the grey cards for color balance and grey for calibrating your L-478DR to your camera.

It is like new condition.

This model has the built in Pocket Wizard that controls their Flex system and triggers their standard radios.

$400 + $10 priority mail within the US.

Some of the greatest photographers spent a huge amount of their time in the darkroom to "create" the image they wanted. Now, how is this any different than using our electronic darkroom? Except a whole lot easier and safer.

I just purchased the X100S yesterday, arrives next week. I saw a good comparison of the Lecia M, X100S, and the RX1 that Steve Huff did. Yes, you certainly can see the difference between the Lecia and the X100S, but at $9K difference, you should. What was interesting is the RX1 looked as good as the M in most all regards.

I just do not like the viewfinder-less RX1 and I don't care to purchase their "add-on" and I simply don't care to spend that type of money on a camera that limits my options for lens.

Bottom line, the IQ is good under most circumstances and with the prices lining up at: $10,000 vs $2799 vs $1299, I think the X100S does darn good.

I currently have 2 Nikon D800e's that I use primarily for weddings. It is a great camera with excellent IQ. But, I wanted several things the X100S provides. X-Sync all the way to 1/4000, good viewfinder, fast focus with the feel of a rangefinder, quiet shutter, and a nice carry around camera that I will actually carry.

I am surprised that the X-Sync capability of this camera is not talked about much. FP/HSS just does not cut it. I will be able to sync a really Speedlight or my Einsteins all the way up to 1/4000 second at f/8...1/1000 to f/2. This is really a nice feature for outdoor portraits. Plus if need f/2 with full sync but 1/1000 does not cut it, then use the 3-stop ND filter.

I believe the X100S will make a nice camera for unobtrusive shots at receptions and other gatherings. (Small size and almost nonexistent shutter noise)

Fuji seems to be stuck on the x-trans sensor...you either love it or hate it. I will not know until I use it. But, from some of the comments I've read, it produces a very nice "grain" type look to the image.

I saw several photographs that Mark Kitaoka captured with the X100S using high sync speeds, they are absolutely beautiful, well executed and darn good IQ.

Regards,
Craig

Depends on what you want to do with the flash and how hard you drive it as well as if you want to use Nikon's CLS... as in wanting the external flash to operate in Master or Remote modes.

I use both the SB-910 and SB-900 professionally. They are powerful, big and expensive. They fully support all Nikon's flash modes.

The SB-700 and SB-600 are good for all around flash use. The SB-600 cannot be used as a Master, but your built-in flash on the D600 can control it remotely.

The SB-400 is too little IMO to consider. Not much better than your built-in flash and no remote capability unless using radio system.

Or you could find a good used SB-800. It is still one of the best flashes Nikon produced. It is as powerful, yet smaller than the SB-9xx series, only draw back is the zoom range does not go out to 200mm like the SB-9xx series. And it works in Master or Remote modes too.

I use the same and as Alan points out, smokes through D800 RAW files with no problem.

I find the Retina display to be very accurate. I profile both my monitor and printer with XRite's ColorMunki. Everything from albums to professionally printed prints come out perfectly matching what I edited on screen.

The SSD drive makes a huge difference when using Lightroom 4 and Photoshop. Smoking fast drive.
Regards,
Craig

All the DSLR's I've owned have this, it is called "Depth of Field Preview" and is typically a button on the front of the camera....same place as the film cameras had it.

I have used and still use light meters (starting with an old Weston than Minolta, and for the pass 10 years a Sekonic). Currently use Sekonic L-478DR and although my D800e's meters are very good, the light meter is an excellent tool to have.

If anything, it teaches you to look at the light and understand what exposure is. I bet most photographers do not know what the Sunny f/16 rule is or how to apply it.

Most of the time the camera's meter does a good job, but it is a reflective meter trying it's best to make everything 18% grey. A light meter is an incident meter, so it reads light falling on the subject and not reflected by the object.

There is no substitute for getting exposure correct in your camera, though you can correct a lot in post, you still are losing information by not getting it right to begin with.

I used mine yesterday for an outside engagement shoot. As well as setting up my flashes when we moved indoors....though Nikon's CLS system is very good, at times, I like to take full control of the strobes and nail down my lights to what I want.

Hi PalePictures,
Beautiful images and very good technique and CaptainC as well.

Thanks (both) for sharing your thoughts and techniques.

Years ago, I used a plug-in from Fred Miranda, which did a fairly good job in conversion. I believe it's been renamed B&W workflow, but I have not used it.

Bottom line, it does take time and a good eye to represent B&W properly. I am amazed when I see a desaturated photo being passed off as B&W. To me, it resembles a dead person. No life in the photo and certainly does not approach any film look.

Your on-line presence is your portfolio. Bottom line, you got to have work to sell, then you have to promote it. In today's world, that is online through website, social networks, and stock photo sites.

But in the end, you will most likely make your living selling workshops, if you choose not to get into wedding and event photography.

Do you have a reference to this?

And how would you know who I voted for?

You need to build a portfolio, get a company like Getty Images to pick you up, then start selling workshops on how to make photographs that sell.

That's true from a legal standpoint, but no one is going to charge a homeowner defending his life and property with deadly force against an "army of 4" heavily armed thugs. Even and especially when the homeowner has them on the run. What if he stopped shooting and the thugs had a minute to think and regroup? It is obvious they where out to harm the homeowner with deadly force.

Let's stop defending thugs and defend the rights of our law abiding citizens.

Very good. Just keep on shooting and take your camera everywhere you go.