import the photo into coreldraw, size it and print it tiled

Just a viewpoint... electronic flash can give you freedom from shutter speed issues, lots of light for higher f stops and greater depth of field. If you are not doing focus stacking, you can even handhold and perhaps chase live subjects. On an old sony (f717) I built an aluminum "light pipe" that directed the pop up flash down in front of the lens and got nicely exposed photos at great magnification (the "lens" was a canon 50 f1.4 jammed backwards in front of the zoom)

Art is when someone with money exchanges it for an image. The image is sold to someone who is attracted to the impressions and feelings that the photographer (hopefully) put into it. Crass collecting or using paid images as clipart doesnt really count. There are photo cliches and other not "true" art. Debate with no real outcome swirls around the concepts but usually art has a monetary value.

Just a quick shot back to the past. A negative has a longer tonal scale than a paper print. Given that the brightest white is just a piece of paper a print does not try to convey all the negative data, only give a pleasing rendition of part of it. Taking a picture of a print is a lot like copying a jpeg. You dont "prefer" unedited raw files nor do you prefer to look at negatives. The world looks at jpegs and prints. PNGs allow you to have a bitmap with irregular boundaries and shapes on the web, all jpegs are rectangles. vector formats are a whole nother world.

The truth lies in perception. Airplane propellers and waterfalls and helicopters look unnatural when "frozen" If video looks good at 30 frames per second then your "biological shutterspeed" is in the neighborhood of 1/30 second, realizing that the eye is not hampered by a "shutter". You can use timing extremes to good effect. freeze a hummingbird's wings or pile on neutral density filters and shoot wind generators at 1/3 second.

Just having immediate feedback on success of shot is great for learning. Today's software is about a quarter of photography
(like Helicon Focus, ptgui and many view /edit programs)one quarter camera , lenses, tripods etc., one quarter photographer's skill and the last quarter , the real leveller is the subject. An instamatic at the scene of the crime is worth way more than 3 nikons at home in a drawer.

There is another route... I was all into darkroom years ago so I bought a 24 inch HP photo printer, laminator and framing saws. Stuck to aluminum frames cause it doesnt warp on 8 foot spans. First print off sold for $700.00. I like the control of my images not leaving the home computer and having control over the timing. I produce largish panoramas so shipping is a concern. Have not regretted the outlay ... not much different from overly expensive best quality cameras and lenses. Marketing for large prints is hit and miss but lots of fun.

If you look at some people who try to shut a topic down that really strikes interest with the theory that they already know the answer then they loose. Giant stereo systems went to garage sales with the advent of ipods. More jpegs are used everyday on facebook in quite low resolution than the output of raw by lots of professionals not to mention the flow of jpegs from amateur cameras and phones and tablets. My daughter had a personalized calendar printed and her "wedding photo album" is going to be a hardcover do it yourself storybook of you guessed it.. jpegs. Photography is really changing because of facebook and the web. More people look at "still pictures" in relatively low resolution and spend lots of time there on the web. So instead of nattering about raw is beautiful and jpeg is ugly remember that the raw file with all its detail is like the negative and prints with their murky blacks and dull whites are the jpeg of yesteryear ... only photographers enjoyed the negatives, people all looked at prints (with color slides being a middle ground). Be aware that todays trends are pointing to a future.

Just a few irrelevant comments. Audio has wav and mp3. one takes a horrendous amount of space. I find that after about 13 years of collecting images digitally ranging from early .3 megapixel to some over 100 megapixel (yes, panoramas) that the majority are jpegs. I started collecting raw with the D90 and in retrospect I would cheerfully throw away about 95% of them because they are record shots and not something I want to spend hours with. Sure that beautiful landscape or human subject has more detail in raw than in jpeg but the subject is continuous, moving, 3 dimension, rotatable (you can walk around and see different viewpoints). you cant take it all in. A photo at best is a slice in time which is why there is such a thing as frames per second. So if you cant really take it all in I still marvel at amazing jpegs, hate the large storage of raw files. Organizing and finding images in a "galaxy" of 50,000 or so ... it is better to be able to find it at all than to build larger and larger terabyte haystacks. Fuji's film analogs, the d90's wedding photo mild unsharpness are camera items and not necessarily a great thing to PP about. Cloning, healing and lots of other PP activity work on jpegs and if you want you can convert them to TIFFS if you are going to open and save multiple times

the extreme of dust on the lens is the technique of chain link fences and (a fairly fast)telephoto lens. Push the lens as close as you can to the wire, open it full aperture and the wires vanish. The farther away the dust from the lens surface or inside (where none of the light is in focus) the more likely you will have image problems. Dirt on a filter's outer surface or shooting through a smeary window is nastier than dust on a lens. The article of lens abuse in this blog where the author eventually destroyed the front element is an excellent viewpoint

if you really want text flexibility use corel draw where you import a jpeg (or other bitmap) and then do vector text etc with easy use of all kinds of text mods like outline colors, fountain fills and curved and modified letters. then print

pet peeve .... strap attachment points should be at the bottom of the camera so a long lens hangs down instead of sticking out, smashing into people in crowds or trees in the forest. I carry the camera inverted then take it off, put it on right side up, shoot, then invert again. Neckstraps also work with one arm through and the camera carried behind the arm which protects trees and adjacent pedestrians. You still have to take it off and fiddle with straps to shoot. If the strap is nylon and goes though adjusters and cinches, have someone with heavy nylon thread and stitching skills tack it together so it doesn't accidentally come loose.

mogul is onto it. our wonderful eyes cant tell spectral green from a mix of yellow and blue paint because we really only see 3 colors and so do our cameras. The spectrum generated by a prism is by wavelength and the colors are truly monochromatic.

I use 4 different digital cameras and have used renaming. Downloader pro can pull exif data including the camera model. Use 2 digit year 2 month 2 day camera name and a sequence number. If you encounter a camera which had the date set wrong or not at all, you can fix all the exif data with a program called exif date changer. Used this on sony mavica filles which rolled at 1000. Another valuable tool is DupDetector which finds duplicates based on file content not name or exif data.

I guess you mean a bridge camera and not the brooklyn bridge. I once owned a bagfull of Nikon and lenses and realized that I was not comfortable taking it canoeing. I use a Fuji s100fs and really don't need a camera bag. The lens does macro and has a good zoom range, panoramic techniques give wideangle views better than any wideangle lens. I also carry an Olympus stylus tough ... 3-1 zoom and waterproof and takes better closeups as the lens is not casting shadows and the optical axis can be placed 1/2" above the ground for real bugs eye view. Each camera has strengths ... For weddings and fast action Nikon and Canon are faster focusing and better in that niche. The fuji s100 is what I carry the rest of the time, with 2 polarizers and a monopod, no camera bag.