this has happend to me once with a T3i, I was shooting in a manuel/ semi manuel mode and I was shotting from strong light to my back and then turned to strong light faceing the lens. what I did not notice was my settings went behoned the camera and lens cappablity... ie apture,shutter speed, ISO were behond what the camera can handle. I thought the camera was capturing the photo but even after pushing the shutter release all the way down the camera refeuse to take the photo.. all photos were not captured with settings out of specs.

hope this helps.
sorry for your loss

I have the same camera
don't expect a great wide angle veiw from the T3i becouse its a croped sensor to begin with.
some examples to show you why your feild of veiw is going to be limited

You can also search the web like I did for
"wide angle lens for canon t3i" I found a site that has most all lens for our camera
http://lenshero.com/lenses/canon-t3i-wide-angle-lens

improvephotography


improvephotography

[quote=Meives]

I need to learn how to do that.

DING

ok gentleman back in your corners.

@ Scoutman, mcveed
I really never thought about the future referencing of information here and the effects of the topic heading. I will take note and correct for the future postings.

Ty

@ Wabbit Thank You.

I knew of limits to the kit lens I have but did not know where and how, Now I do and I'm quite sure I will find the other limitations to.

As for photo I#. I did 5-6 shots gradually increasing the shutter time. I was looking straight at mercury vapor lights and they looked real good but the rest of the photo was dark. All the shots showed the star effect. I believe with the shots I do have I can get a program and layer them, I believe its called HDR… at a later date. it was really a shot in the dark. This is the 3rd attempt of shooting at night.
The 3rd photo I used a Cokin P056 Prof Star 8, this is the first time I used the filter, at this point I’m not impressed and feel this filter will have limited use.

sounds like a plan, would using a wider aperture effect the depth of field?

Thanks you Wascally Wabbit

just curious why, when I do long exposures at night some of the light show up as if I were using a star filter? the first photo has a few dew drops on the lens but not where the lights are.
I do have a star filter but I know I was not using it for the first two shots.

Thanks

Alaska at Night, exposure abt 1 min


Florida Luau just after sunset exposure time abt 1min 20 sec.


this is the star filter on a 14 year old engine I detailed

:thumbup:

We have 3 registered TiVo’ in our house at least 2-3 time a week I get locked out of my TV because I have a wife who feels the need to record 2 shows at the same time on different networks. If this is done you can NOT go to a 3rd channel and watch live TV.. I just can’t take any more Honey Boo Boo drivel or Switched AT Birth or Dancing with the Stars . So I listen to the radio.

The things we do for love.
like walking in the rain and the snow
when there's nowhere to go.

Sorry for your misadventure

In the few photography class I have taken the one things the teacher was adamant about was “never edit or delete* photos on the card” its self in the camera or otherwise. One would think the filing process would be to store photos and information in a orderly manner in most cases it’s not so, the card can become corrupt to a point no program out there can retrieve the information or formatting can be done again… its toast.

As a personal note I never move photo files from where they are saved. Most all my photos are saved to a external hard drive fresh from the card itself,
this way if for reasons unknown I lose a computer I don’t loose everything.
I never alter or edit the original file. I copy the original and edit that file. This way I always have a clean starting point no matter what I do to the copied file, This includes RAW and JPEG.

It’s a OCD thing

* cleaning or formatting a card only after photos are safely stored.

I don't want to "High Jack" this post......... BUT??????

@ Lighthouse



can you please show by example of what crosshatch noise is plse

Thank You

this low laying fog rolled in and out in just a few minutes. what the camera could not catch was the soft moon lit rays casting threw the trees branches and mist. it looks fresh out of a horror movie.

I tried a longer shutter speed but the moon was bright enough to over expose, looking back with 20/20 I could of dropped the ISO to 100-200. but by the time the shot was set up the fog was rolling back out, I tried to force the shot by using the mag-light to soft light what fog was there.. ooh well, no biggie.. I like em all

Thank You all for the kind words and advice. I really like how everyone here has encouragement and ideas to aid in others to better them selves.

Thank You all again

here are a few I shot tonight.
heavy fog with clear sky..was trying to get the long light rays to shine through the tree leaves, it looks like a little started to appear on the last photo. Still need practice

bulb mode @ 10sec, F13, ISO1600. back flood lights were on


bulb mode @14 sec, F13 ISO 400 back lights turned off. flash light used to light up tree


same as above but lit the outer section of the frame with a 4D mag light

David

WOW ! ! ! words can not express the beauty you have captured.

did you use a tripod on the long shots? DOF are great
what did you use to watermark your photos?

Thank you for sharing

just going to throw this out there

but could he not put a slight delay on the flash so the shutter would not catch the full effect of the flash burst?

and or use a paper napkin as a diffuser?

just ask'n

this is so true.

the best advice I was ever give is
1. download photos to a CD and or to a external hard drive first"
2. never move them from there spot.
3. never alter the original
4. always copy the original.

Yes its true even a good quality CD will degrade over time. but if they are kept in a cool dry, sun light free area they will last a long time.