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Posts for: jamesl
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Nov 6, 2017 16:03:22   #
frankraney wrote:
Just because you have a software that is not supported by the mfg, does not mean you have to stop using it. There is still support through people on the web.....I still use Adobe PS CS2.....That's what I learned on and still use. I have other stuff also, but still use cs2. The limiting factor would be if you ever upgrade your operating system to something that would cause it not to work....File types don't change....the thing that changes are featured added to software...As long as you like it, keep using it and upgrade when you are forced to by operating system. Why get something new if the old still works fine. If you really want to change, all of the ones mentioned are fine. You just need to try and decide which one has the features you want... I also use an older ver of LR, I sue LR 5 and it woks fine with my CS2... I also have other stuff newer, but still fall back to these 2.
Just because you have a software that is not suppo... (show quote)


I still have Photoshop 7 and Lightroom 3 installed on one of my computers and they still work fine.
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Nov 6, 2017 13:33:29   #
bobbyjohn wrote:
First time questioner. I have Nikon D5200 and Nikon Speedlight SB-600. I'm a non-professional but like to take good pictures. My pictures are primarily for family and my wife's facebook page. My problem is that whenever I use the Speedlight flash (more power of course), the people come out over-exposed. When I take the same picture using the on-board flash, the exposure is normal. Both of the shots attached are in P-mode from about the same distance, using "Center weighted average" metering. Any idea why the Speedlight is constantly giving pictures/people that are over-exposed?
First time questioner. I have Nikon D5200 and Ni... (show quote)


In the picture on the left with the external flash your camera chose an ISO of 400 but in the one on the right with the built-in flash it chose an ISO 3200 a 3 stop difference in the lighting. What mode do you have the flash set on? for the way you are using it, I think the camera and speedlite should both be in TTL mode. Try repeating the process using aperture priority and a fixed ISO and see if that will make a difference. With those two locked in, only the shutter speed can vary and as long as the camera and speedlite are both in TTL the camera should adjust the power output of the flash to what it needs for the exposure. If the same thing happens and it is consistent you can try using some negative flash compensation to correct it.
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Nov 1, 2017 16:17:10   #
dyximan wrote:
I appreciate it but the question has been answered and when I used the word app I was referring to aperture. Thanks for the response and have a great day


Thank you. I wasn't sure about it.
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Oct 31, 2017 15:30:52   #
cony25 wrote:
How can I avoid the wrinkles of the background showing in the pictures?

I have all kinds of materials for backgrounds, but seems that there is no way to iron them all...


any suggestions?


Possibly you could use a steamer or spritz the material with some water from a spray bottle and give it a quick hit with a hair dryer.
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Oct 31, 2017 15:25:25   #
dyximan wrote:
My question is as follows if I'm shooting manual in app shutter and iso. When I adjust the exposure reading I do not notice any of the settings being changed what is exactly being changed in order to change the exposure of my photo.


Are you talking about shooting with a cell phone or a camera? I haven't heard of any "app" for or on cameras.
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Oct 29, 2017 16:01:17   #
I STOP TO SHOOT wrote:
So Ziggy if you were in bracketing, note that each time you leave the bracketing mode you need to reset to raw. I too have a Nikon D7100 and have learnt to do that after coming out of Bracketing


I've taken bracketed shots on numerous occasions to use for HDR and I so far have never had to change back to RAW. My bracked shots as well as all others are always in RAW.
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Oct 29, 2017 15:11:03   #
ziggy_nc wrote:
I usually keep my image setting on my Nikon D7100 to RAW. But every now and than it is switching on me to RAW+JPEG. I don't remember change it and when I look at the menu screen of recent changes, I do not see how it is changing. Does any one any clue on what is happening. I main notice it when I view the pictures on the PC and see jpg images, which I usually (hardy ever) us.

Zig


I have been using RAW only in my D7100 and so far I've never had it change on me.
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Oct 27, 2017 14:46:55   #
dhowland wrote:
I don't know much about the alternatives but am also thinking about the potential need for a switch. I don't do a heavy amount of processing but I do some and want to work the way I have with the desktop version of Lightroom. My first question is brought up in your quote above -- which programs work in virtual copies like LR? It's one of my favorite things about that program.


"ON1 Photo RAW 2018" is the program that uses the "versions", which is the same as a "Virtual copy" in Lightroom. You can create as many versions of a photo as you want and they will show up in browse. It is all non-destructible and only creates a an actual physical copy of a version when you export the version. When you export you have options for what file type you want and the color space you want it exported in. ON1 also has layers that Lightroom doesn't.
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Oct 26, 2017 17:25:22   #
Dngallagher wrote:
Last time I looked, ON1 was a BROWSER, not a catalog type program for asset management like Lightroom. Has that changed? Is it no longer a file browser instead using a database of your images for lightning quick searches ala Lightroom?

Like listening to many stock market pundits, everyday brings doom and gloom on the horizon, but so far ....



BTW - I too started with Aperture instead of Lightroom, I have now been using Lightroom CC for over 4 years after Apple announced EOL for Aperture - no price increase and no complaints. With over 50,000 images in my catalog, I would miss instant access of non-database metadata searches.
Last time I looked, ON1 was a BROWSER, not a catal... (show quote)


"ON1 Photo RAW 2018" does catalog your pictures and maintains a database. It also now has versions that work like virtual copies in Lightroom and offer built in HDR and Panorama modules to handle those within the program too.
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Oct 26, 2017 16:25:14   #
Chris T wrote:
If so, do you use the kind that goes around the lens, or the kind that's attached to a strap lug on your body? ...

If you don't use either kind ... what do you DO with your cap, when you're shooting?


I put it in a plastic bag either in my pocket or the camera bg to keep from losint it and to keep it clean.
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Oct 24, 2017 15:57:22   #
Rab-Eye wrote:
I'm interested in hearing from other hobbyists (pros will skew the results) who use off-camera flash: do you (like I do) use umbrellas as diffusers, or do you prefer softboxes? I've begun to become intruiged by the possibility of having control over the edge of the light that a softbox would give, so I'm curious to hear what other hobbyists are doing.

Thanks!


Yes, I use off-camera flash quite a bit of the time. I use light stands with umbrellas and softboxes both and some other light modifiers too such as snoots, barn doors, and diffusers.
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Oct 23, 2017 11:40:39   #
jaymatt wrote:
I am becoming disenchanted with all the continual changes in LR, and especially with the subscription version being different from the stand-alone version. As a result, I am seriously considering abandoning LR for Affinity, which sounds more friendly and apparently can work in conjunction with Photos, which I use on my Mac for basic editing.

Has anyone made such a move away from LR, and, more important, what is the general feeling here about Affinity as a primary processing program?


I got Affinity and I also got ON1 Photo RAW 2018. The ON1 software is the one that is more like Lightroom. Affinity is more a replacement for Photoshop then for Lightroom. I use "Affinity & ON1" in place of "Lightroom & Photoshop" and I don't miss either.
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Oct 23, 2017 11:01:23   #
LucyCO7 wrote:
Hi there,

I’m happy to be part of this forum. I have a very strong desire to become a better photographer by enrolling in some classes. I’m in need of a good camera to start with. From what I’ve read, in a beginner type of class they want you to have a camera that can switch to manual but, also be digital?? I have friends that are all about Cannon cameras. I’m open for suggestions, and am also on a very tight budget. Any suggestions are welcome:)


If you have a Walmart or Best Buy or some other similar store near you, I would check on what they have that you can look at and see some options. I understand being on a tight budget since I am retired and have limited resources available. If you go to one of the stores, take a look at whatever entry-level DSLR kits they have. As an example, where I live Walmarts have a Nikon D3300 kit with 1 or 2 lenses and they also have a Canon T6 or T6i kit with 1 or 2 lenses. These usually are somewhere between $500 - $600 range. A lot of times you can get either an older model or a refurbished kit for less. When I got my first DSLR, Walmart had a Canon and a Nikon kit but the Nikon D3100 kit was on sale at the time for $449 so I went with it since the Canon model was not on sale. The normal price is normally just about the same or either brand. If you don't already have money invested in lenses for a specific brand whether you choose Canon or Nikon doesn't really matter since Either would work well for you.
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Oct 22, 2017 03:51:51   #
PeggySue58 wrote:
What camera do you use your 50mm on? I have a D7200 and am thinking about getting the 50mm 1.8G. Have heard so many good things about it, I have the 35mm and love it but wanting something that is better at portraits, some say 50mm and some say 85mm, so I am trying to make up my mind, but leaning toward the 50mm since for indoors if I don’t have a lot of room to back up!!


I'm using it on my D7100. I used it last Saturday to take some Homecoming Dance pictures for my granddaughter and it works very well for portraits. You can make out every little eyelash. On the D7100 the 50 mm is equivalent to a 75 mm the same as it would be on your D7200. You will find the f/1.8 to ber very handy in lower light situations.
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Oct 21, 2017 11:43:10   #
Acrandell7100 wrote:
I have several lenses for my D7100, but none are very sharp. Can do digital sharpening via LR, but any suggestions on great, everyday lenses for D7100? I have the original kit lens 18-105, a Tamron 18-50 (non VR, regrettably), 35 MM Nikkor prime lens, and a Nikon 18-55 VR. My 70-300 is great for longer distances and as sharp as any. Thanks.


I have a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 that is sharp and I find I use quite a bit.
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