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Posts for: Kozan
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Nov 27, 2020 18:13:23   #
bdk wrote:
I am considering buying a mirrorless camera. I currently shoot Nikon.
The new Nikon mirrorless cameras have a different lens mount. Making all my lenses useless.

so I will look at the Nikon z5 and z7II

I read the new Canon mirrorless cameras use their same lens mount and
Canon lenses are def cheaper in price that a nikon lens.
Now that I am retired money is a lot more important than before.

but if you are using a mirrorless camera, what one are you using and how do you like it
and last but most important how is the picture quality compared to your old DSLR?

I have read reviews, I have talked to salesman . everyone has an agenda , as do some of you but I know i'll get some good answers.
Thanks
I am considering buying a mirrorless camera. I cu... (show quote)


I have the Z50 and the Z6. Autofocus is faster than the D850 and also sharper. I will probably get the Z6ii. For the price, you can't beat it. Also, I can use all of my Nikon lenses with the FTZ adapter.

I will sell my Z50, Z6, D850, D500 Nikon P1000, and several lenses. The lenses for the Z series of cameras are better than the DSLR lenses, from what I've seen.
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Nov 27, 2020 18:05:28   #
ecar wrote:
Is Focus Camera the reincarnation of a bad store?


From all the bad reviews, I would say Yes. Check out the reviews. It is best to stay with B&H Photo or Adorama. Both have excellent customer service. There has to be some good guys on the West Coast.

The bad stores change their name often. Just Google "reviews of Focus Camera".
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Nov 27, 2020 10:34:14   #
Scruples wrote:
Dear All: I would like to purchase a Light Meter? However, I have seen some meters over $100 and up to $2000. That seems like a large price differential. I might buy a light meter but don’t want to break the bank. Does anyone have a suggestion on a particular manufacturer and model number?


I've always used the Minolta Auto Meter IV F. It is now produced by Kenko model 1100 Profesional.
Since it does Flash and ambient light, it is all I would ever need. Adorama has them for $248.
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Nov 25, 2020 12:56:58   #
jerryc41 wrote:
This might help.
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/18612/how-to-measure-capacity-of-a-lithium-ion-battery/18613#18613

Connecting a multimeter will tell you what's going on inside.


You really have to check batteries under a load. Usually with a 1K resistor. Batteries can have the full-charge voltage but are not able to produce the proper current.
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Nov 19, 2020 11:08:14   #
jerryc41 wrote:
I've been watching a Spanish TV series - Alta Mar (High Seas). It's in Spanish with closed captions. I noticed that some of the "S" sounds have the tongue going between the teeth, as in the word "thin." What's the story with that? I haven't noticed it in Mexican Spanish, or maybe I just wasn't paying attention.


That's the Castillian spanish. Only pronounced like that in the Castillian district of Spain. For instance the word cinco in Latin America is pronounced SEEN-CO. In Castille it is pronounced as theen-co.
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Nov 17, 2020 12:25:13   #
mr spock wrote:
Is it just me or does no one say you’re welcome anymore? Whenever I am out in a restaurant, store etc. and someone does something for me I say “Thank You”
Almost invariably the response in no longer “You’re Welcome” but “No Problem”
Does it bother anyone else or should I get a life and not worry about it?


Yes. Change is hard for some of us. I still get mad when people say pairs of glasses when pair is both singular and plural. It's like saying "How many fishes did you catch".

But I think of the Spanish "de nada", which literally means "It's nothing." "No problem" means the same thing.
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Nov 15, 2020 21:15:04   #
ELNikkor wrote:
This is a lovely, spontaneous-moment type photo; no technical perfection needed! Some helpful friends on this site may use one of their programs to sharpen it, but even without the sharpening, the expressions and body language at play makes this a great memory for the bride, groom, and all family members.


I wouldn't do anything but crop out the flagpole on the left side of the picture. With today's AI , it may be possible to sharpen it, but I don't think it is necessary. I would think the bride and groom will love it the way it is.
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Nov 10, 2020 10:07:38   #
MrBob wrote:
Without going into the weeds can't we just say changing ISO lightens or darkens an image and base ISO for your camera will give you the greatest dynamic range and least amount of noise... This seems like one of those topics where the less said the better as it tends to confuse folks.


You are right. No need to complicate the situation. One can think of it as the old ASA film speed applied to digital. I don't need to understand Maxwell's Equations to understand radio waves.
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Nov 8, 2020 09:31:11   #
rmalarz wrote:
Kozan, what I did was based on a couple of principles. Light meters render an exposure that places whatever they measured in Zone V, middle of the Black to white scale.

So, if I'm shooting digital, I spot meter the brightest part of the scene, I can then increase the exposure an appropriate amount to place that metered part of the scene in a "brighter" and more appropriate Zone, based on my desire on how I want to represent that part of the scene in the final "print". Knowing how much additional exposure is required is arrived at through careful testing. Determining the portion of the scene to spot meter requires careful examination of the scene.

Incidentally, this is the opposite of shooting black and white film. In that case, I'd measure the darkest part of the scene and decide in which Zone to place that part of the scene. I'd then decrease exposure the appropriate amount. Like digital, the processing of the original will render the various brightnesses in the appropriate zones.

So, in this case, I spot metered a reflection off the water and increased exposure to place that in the appropriate Zone. This increased the exposure of the entire scene. In processing, I compensated for the additional exposure and, as you can see, the rest of the scene "fell" into place.
--Bob
Kozan, what I did was based on a couple of princip... (show quote)


Thanks, Bob. I got it now. It all boils down to knowing what zone you are metering.
I appreciate the explanation.

Kozan
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Nov 7, 2020 17:35:17   #
rmalarz wrote:
Just an example of ETTR and final photo. Experimentation to determine f-stop per Zone pays off.
--Bob


OK, I don't get what you did. Can you explain?
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Nov 5, 2020 11:48:25   #
starlifter wrote:
I am curious about how to pronounce the new Nikon Z's. Is it Z7 II as in roman numerals, or is it Z7 two? Not interested in owning one as I don't money to buy the glass to get to where I am with y D810.


It's actually Zed seven two. And the correct writing is Z7ii.
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Oct 25, 2020 12:35:52   #
Camlane wrote:
It is not an unsubstantiated rumor. He saw it. Are you calling him a liar?


Really? He saw it. So, that makes it real?
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Oct 25, 2020 12:33:28   #
Jim Eads wrote:
Not hacked. It was a direct email and, from their website and physical staged site using remote cam technology.


In order to know where it came from did you trace the IP addresses all the way back to the originator.
anyone can easily spoof an email making you think it came from someone else.

I doubt it was real. Probably came from the Russians or N. Korea.
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Oct 21, 2020 23:27:04   #
fjrwillie wrote:
Most of my photo taking I use the manual mode, RAW only. Most of my photos are taken during the day between 11am to 5pm. I am using the exposure setting for what I measure on the clouds or bright spots in the sky. This makes the exposure of my main subject to be under exposed.

All of my photos are post processed in some manner or form. The areas that are under exposed I seem to be able to bring back with post processing.

Attached 2 photos; One is SOOC the second was processed quickly as an example.

My question is>>>> Am I missing the boat on using the exposure setting from the sky and clouds so they are not over exposed and blown out ???

Willie
Most of my photo taking I use the manual mode, RAW... (show quote)


Willie, I don't understand why you would meter the clouds. The clouds in daylight are at least 2-3 stops brighter than what your camera's meter wants to see (a ZONE 5 reading, or 18% reflectance. If metering clouds, you would have to increase exposure by 2 or three stops, maybe 4. You could do exposure compensation of about +3 stops. That will get you back to ZONE 5 or 0 on your camera's meter.

Good luck. Learn the zone system and just meter on a zone 5 object.

Stan
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Oct 21, 2020 10:28:52   #
dzn1 wrote:
I am a D3200 owner but need to improve my kit with gear better able to do sports photography. Indoor and out. I have a budget of $500 and would consider a refurb P900 if it is up to the task for HD video and stllls. Post processing maybe, but not preferred. A one item solution is a plus as it will be loaned (given) to my daughter. Comments?


I have taken baseball photos at a minor league park with the P1000 and the delay from pressing the shutter and the picture actually being taken is about 1/2 second. To me, that is unacceptable. If you are really good at anticipating that delay, it might work for you.

Kozan
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