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Oct 24, 2017 10:00:32   #
If you have Lightroom 5 you can upgrade to Lightroom 6 for around $86.00. You do not need to pay the full price. That is if your Lightroom 5 is registered in your name.
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Oct 11, 2017 21:14:22   #
The download really makes the difference! Very nice!
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Oct 2, 2017 11:55:01   #
I would really like to start a conversation on how sharp and how much noise is ok to have in sports photography. Especially in the low light scenarios of high school football, hockey with poor lighting, and other indoor sports with low lighting.

There are many different objectives and maybe that is where differences lie. Do you shoot for family and friends? A school or team? For publication? Or MaxPreps?

Personally, I am just a mom that shoots high school football games for the team. Most pictures are posted in an online album for the families, but the Seniors each year choose some of the pictures to go on a banner to be hung at the stadium. I have been approved to be a MaxPreps photographer but I have not taken the next steps yet to post my first online album for review. I know they can be very picky and I am a little afraid to just do it.

What is your philosophy in sharpness vs noise? What programs do you use to make the most of your work? (i.e. Lightroom, PhotoShop, or any other)

Maybe we can learn a little from each other.
Thanks!
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Oct 2, 2017 11:43:44   #
I really like the pose and subsequent capture! The nit picky things that I find a distraction is 1) her eye on the right side is too dark - I would like to see both eyes and 2) the wood floor is nice and shiny except over on that right side where it is dull and distracting.
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Oct 2, 2017 10:25:54   #
amfoto1 wrote:
ISO 16000 with Canon 7D Mark II...



Above was a test shot RAW (lens happened to be 100-400 II), converted via Lightroom 6 using default noise reduction settings.

Yes, there's noise if you look at the image ridiculously large. But it's pretty well controlled and very manageable in post-processing. I use ISO 5000 and 6400 a lot with my 7DIIs... and sell prints as large as 16x20 from them. Less frequently, but if needed I'll even use 8000, 12800 or 16000, though I know the images will typically need more work in post-processing.

Besides shooting RAW, I also recommend being careful to avoid under-exposure. If you have to boost the image brightness in post-processing, that will greatly amplify any noise. Also apply noise reduction while still in 16 bit mode and before down-sizing the image at all (I use Imagenomic Noiseware plug-in with Photoshop, but there are a number of good NR programs, either free standing or plug-ins). And especially don't do any sharpening until after NR has been completed.

Oh, and don't evaluate your image quality at ridiculously high magnifications that are meaningless when it comes to the finished product. It's fine to use 100%, 200% or even higher to retouch images... But that's way bigger than the image will be used in the end. 100% of a 20MP image is close to a three foot by five foot print size, on the typical computer monitor. Unless you actually plan to print that big and then view the print as close as you view your computer monitor... back off! Use 25 or 33% to evaluate image sharpness, focus accuracy... and noise! Those magnifications are much closer to the size of the vast majority of prints and still larger than many uses (such as Internet sizes and resolutions).
ISO u 16000 /u with Canon 7D Mark II... br br ... (show quote)


Sorry to have upset you with my comments. For you, I will "back off!"
But for my high school football images I have to be able to blow pictures up to put on 6'X3' banners. So I want the sharpest, least noisy pictures I can get. Nobody likes to see a grainy image of their son all blown up. I don't have the time to do major retouches on the 100's of photos I take each week. I like to do the best work I can. I am just a volunteer and do not receive any compensation for the many hours of work I put in. Thanks.
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Sep 28, 2017 11:43:41   #
KEH.com
Craigslist (be careful though)
Adorama
B&H
Fred Miranda's website - the have a for sale section similar to here.
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Sep 28, 2017 08:55:23   #
The problem with the 7DII is that the sensor is older technology and a crop, so your low light performance with hockey will be noisy. Personally, I would go with a full frame. Either a used 1DX or a new 5DIV. the 5DIV will not get you as many frames, but it will do well with the low light and at 7 fps, it is no slouch. Also, with the 30mp you will be able to crop if using a 70-200 2.8. The 100-400mm II would be a great lens, but just not as great in low light.
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Sep 28, 2017 08:48:24   #
I think it boils down to what you would rather have - a lens with a little protection or a lens that can preform at it's best abilities.
Personally, I choose the latter. I need all the help I can get :)
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Sep 27, 2017 15:55:36   #
CathyPK wrote:
I am forced to use my DH film Canon EOS 620; I can't buy a new camera. The cost to develop is cheaper than any money that I could save up for a digital mirrorless camera. Maybe the digital mirrorless cameras will come down in price after Christmas so that is my goal to buy one then. With the Apple iPhone X as competition, I don't know what the camera companies are going to do. From what I've read, the Apple iPhone X is going to be spectacular. I'll decide after Christmas.


If you have not purchased a mirrorless camera yet but have $1000.00+ to spend on a new iPhone, that tells me you have not been too interested in purchasing a mirrorless camera. I think you will be happiest with your new iPhone X. Enjoy!
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Sep 27, 2017 11:42:48   #
bull drink water wrote:
why talk of wide open for landscapes?? I would shoot from f5.6-f8.


Your question tells me you either didn't fully read and/or fully understand the OP's question.
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Sep 27, 2017 09:11:35   #
rgeremia1 wrote:
Thank you for your reply. Do you or anyone know what the limitations are regarding the float plane. Currently there are four photographers going on the trip so far but more may join, anyway how many people are allowed on the plane and does anyone have recommendations regarding flight companies.


It depends on the plane. Are you using a flying service? If so, I would call and ask them what size of planes they use and the limitations for the plane. It is not only body weight but gear weight too. Where will you be flying out of? Anchorage? Kenai? Homer? You can fly a bigger plane into King Salmon and then fly to Katmai from there.
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Sep 25, 2017 21:07:58   #
Denali always has wildlife sightings along the road. Does your friend hike or want to go off road? Heading up towards Glennallen or up to Tok on the highway you can see wildlife just off the highway. Personally, I would find a guide that can take your friend off road and help get closer to wildlife viewing chances. It is kind of like hunting - sometimes you get lucky, sometimes not.
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Sep 25, 2017 20:01:04   #
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
Alaskan Mosquitoes are 747 size and F-22 Raptor sized in penetration power. The later in the season the better.


They are smaller the later in the season. They start out huge and at least they are easy to swat.
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Sep 25, 2017 19:59:52   #
Wingpilot wrote:
Actually, June is the best month for weather. It’s a bit unpredictable in July, and August is sketchy at best.


I always prefer July, June you can still have snow on the ground if you go to higher elevations (Hatcher Pass) and snow has been known to still be on the ground at lower elevations too. (in prior years anyway)
I was up on Hatcher Pass this July and you could still see snow around, although the road was open.
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Sep 25, 2017 16:48:23   #
July usually is the best month weather wise. There is so much to cover size wise. How much time will your friend be spending there? Your friend really needs to concentrate on a few areas and then make plans from there. Does your friend want wildlife, people, scenery, or all the above? If he already has a float plane ready to fly him out, can he have them continue to take him to other destinations that are off the beaten path?
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