Why do you keep asking the same thing? Do the testing that you were suggested to do last week and learn the correct and accurate answers! The very first picture you posted here looks fine for shooting at F5.6 if you are in the true macro range. Was it shot at 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, . . . ? Anywhere near the closest focus distance with that lens and the F stop you chose would indicate that your lens is quite sharp because the rounded subject shows you that you have very limited depth of field. That is the world of macro!!!! Always indicate the magnification ratio on a macro image, That macro ratio is as important as all the specs you posted. Us macro shooters set the lens on manual focus, VR off, and preset the magnification ratio. Move the whole camera rig back and forth to focus precisely, usually leaving the focus ring alone, already set for the proper ratio we chose! Try using VR on and off on the same subject and you will have the answer of why we turn it off.
Correct, the news print is rather coarse when magnified, but the paper fibers really pop out! And of course very cheap way of testing.
When you shoot a macro shot with close to 1:1 reproduction ratio the depth of field is very limited. Even at f-16 the depth of focus is very shallow. Many macro lenses seem to do best in the area of f-8 to F-11 from my experience. You do not need any fancy test charts to put your lens and camera through its paces. For a better test subject try taking a shot of some fine newsprint at a 45 degree angle ramped from the news paper base to the top which is canted away. Focus at a point in the middle of the news paper piece. Use various f stops to find out which are the sweet spot. Also shoot some at 1:1, some 1:2, etc and find out more about your lens and how it performs. You may have to shoot many pictures in order to really test that lens. Over a hundred is not unreasonable. Focus on the print in the center of the frame and see how much in front of and behind the focus point is sharp and you may have a better idea of the performance of your lens and tripod, or other gear. Using a flash during parts of the test may also be good to try as well. You will get a good grasp of what works best with your camera and lens in the field. By looking at the sharpness both in front and behind where you focus you will also know where you should choose for a focus point in the field. You will also see if the focus needs adjusting inside the camera? Have fun, this can be an interesting winters day project!
Inspirational, thanks for sharing the URL repleo !
Sent you a private message.
I was going to forward that to my wife of 45 years, then decided against it. She lets me buy beer, so live, and let live !
If Memory serves me correctly I believe the "Step Tablets" the original poster mentioned were often sold by Kodak in the old film days. Though with the demise of such things by Kodak, yes Stouffer is a large supplier of them still, along with Aperion and other companies. I seem to remember that the difference between the 2 and 3 was indeed the size of the tablet, and it was a Kodak product. I had many such tools in my darkroom back in the day for calibrating and fine tuning the curves for Zone System for a particular film/developer/paper combination. They were also useful when explaining zone system to students.
The "step wedges" were most often calibrated/developed film like material that was sold as a finished negative of various formats with the similar steps of density on them. I think the finest of those used carbon particles on a clear substrate rather than actual film? Far more archival. One could then enlarge and project the wedge onto photo paper with their own enlarger and lens and develop the print, then examine the final print with a reflection densitometer, or by eye, comparing it to a step tablet like above discussed. Much of this technique is also used in the printing industry.
There were a lot of picky and technical photographers using all formats of film, though maybe the most picky were large format sheet film users? We used many of these tools to fine tune our craft. I was one myself, using both reflection and transmission densitometers to measure and calibrate. I am not talking simple easel enlarging meters, but rather expensive lab grade instruments. The reflection densitometer used a calibrated glazed tile to adjust the instrument. The tile was made with both black and grey surfaces of specific reflection % to make sure readings were accurate. More than anyone wanted to know I am sure, though actually a short version! LOL !
No billnikon, that store in the old church, was called: "Columbus Camera Group" and was owned and operated by different individuals. CCG sold only used equipment, they were not dealers of new cameras. They were located on East Blake St. That business has closed the storefront and sold the bldg.
Midwest Camera was located on High Street for over twenty years until they moved a few years ago to their current new digs. Midwest also sells used equipment but concentrates more on new equipment sales, and rental/sales of pro equipment. They also have a large classroom to teach different aspects on photography. Midwest also has a darkroom they rent out to various artists. Well worth a trip to them to see the operation and talk cameras with the knowledgeable staff.
When myself and a group of fellow photographers from the Cleveland Ohio area made the trip South to Columbus, we always visited both establishments.
Yes, Midwest Camera in Columbus deserves kudos for the many years it has served the Ohio area. I live 150 miles away and had a bigger store in my own city, but made the day trip to Columbus with a group of area photographer friends about five times a year! We were always treated right by the owners and employees, and developed a solid relationship with them. They always gave us honest answers about products and steered us away from problem childs. Thank you Jim (owner) and all your employees !
The 200mm micro-nikkor is a D lens, not an AFS and as such will not focus with the mirrorless camera automatically. But then if you are shooting at the maximum macro capability, then you would manual focus anyways? Will it work was your question, so yeah it works, auto exposure is fine but no autofocus.
Lovely young ladies, well lit, and expertly posed. Just for thought, would cloning out the tattoo, and necklace, make the image even stronger, perhaps timeless?
The Miranda G model was called: "The poor man's Nikon F" back in the sixties. I started with it and added many screens, finders, and lenses. It was a very well made camera and highly versatile. The exact camera is still being used today by a close friend of mine that I gave it to maybe 25 yrs ago! Still works perfectly.
We are all happy with what we have until we see something that may do more than we envisioned? I love my D810 and my D500, among the five digital Nikons and several film Nikon cameras I own. But some day I may want a mirrorless? I held off buying the D850 for that reason. You never know what lies beyond the bend on our photographic journey. I am most curious to read about the new offerings from Nikon.
You can have it, but make sure you understand the conditions I mentioned above. I do not want my house destroyed taking the machine out. It would require two strong people to carry it out. and a small trailer to haul it. I was going to throw paper out in todays trash pickup, so you are just in time! Maybe you can give me your phone number and I will call you to discuss details? My name is Lou Olszewski