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Posts for: dsmeltz
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May 20, 2021 09:10:17   #
Sidwalkastronomy wrote:
How do you post process a light bulb?


The trash can? I do not think they are recyclable.
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May 20, 2021 08:39:44   #
LFingar wrote:
I gave my last smart phone, an iPhone back to the company when I retired in 2014. I may have accidentally dropped it on the ground and stomped on it. I hated that thing. I had Android based phones prior to that last one. Anyway, for the past 7yrs I have had an ATT 3G dumb phone, but, ATT 3G service is ending next year. Finally accepted the inevitable and bought an iPhone12 since my wife has an iPhoneX and can give me tips. One problem. There are so many apps that I get a headache just looking through them. I would like some suggestions as far as the ones you find most useful for photography, such as remote camera control of my Canons, etc. I don't use social media so those are of no interest. Wait, I lie! I opened a Facebook page about 10yr ago for a class reunion but I haven't visited it in probably 9yrs. I don't even remember the password to log on.
I am actually starting to enjoy this new phone. Maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I gave my last smart phone, an iPhone back to the ... (show quote)


You have listed a number of reasons I do not use iPhone. The big one being, IT IS NOT INTUITIVE!!!!! (You did not directly say that, but it is imbedded in what you did say) All this crap about Apple being intuitive drives me crazy!!!! Even people I know who are long time iPhone users say they L O V E it, but then have trouble finding apps, switching between apps, having their screens crack, etc..... And adjusting to iOS changes.... Don't get me started about how they struggle!
And finding out they have lost photos because they did not upgrade their icloud account and they could not figure out how to download the images to their computer because.....well Apple does not want THAT to be easy!!!
I just do not get the iPhone fanboy sickness.
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May 20, 2021 08:26:49   #
joer wrote:
It takes 100...one the change the bulb and ninety nine to tell you how they would make it better.

That is why one should take advice with a grain of salt or ignore it altogether...especially if you didn't ask for it.


300
One to worry about which bulb is better.
Three to offer useful advice based on the first one's stated needs.
296 to hijack the thread and talk about RAW vs. JPEG.
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May 19, 2021 07:14:44   #
usnret wrote:
I'm afraid Ma Kettle wouldn't let me buy a mirrorless camera body. She says I've already spent enough dad gum money on picture takin gear. Never mind what she spent on her new spring wardrobe!


WOW! That new spring wardrobe must be appreciated and admired or you, my friend, are in deep doodoo!

And what better way to admire and appreciate than with a beautiful photo of your lovely lady taken using equipment that is up to the task!
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May 19, 2021 07:07:52   #
JimPhotoGuy wrote:
What STUPID place doesn't allow tripods?


Museums, small tight caves and caverns, basically any busy and popular tourist attractions, you know places where your desire to setup a bunch of walk hazards does not trump other people's "stupid" desire to enjoy their visit without tripping over all of your stuff.
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May 18, 2021 14:24:04   #
fourpar wrote:
I'll be going to Luray Caverns in a couple of weeks. I have Nikon D3400 and 18-55 mm, 70-300 mm and a 35mm lenses. I don't think it a good idea to change lenses underground, so I'd like opinions on which lens to mount. My first thought is the 35mm.
I've checked with the office and tripods are allowed, so I plan on using one.
I look forward to your suggestions.
Thanks,


Do you like post processing?
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May 18, 2021 14:07:24   #
Yes.
Absolutely!
Perhaps even more so.

The cost of film used to be the barrier to dilatant photographers. With the low, low per image cost of digital, results and higher expectations are all that is left.
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May 18, 2021 14:04:44   #
Sidwalkastronomy wrote:
I have the newer TG6 and love it while kayaking without fear of ruining it. I put afloat on the strap in case it drops. BTW it's also shock proof


The TG line is all a novice, uncertain and unfocused underwater shooter like to OP needs. The OP simply has not shown a need for anything more sophisticated. Obviously pros shooting specific subjects will have more involved, demanding and focused needs, but the OP here should just get a baseline underwater point and shoot and be done with it.
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May 18, 2021 11:32:26   #
banders26 wrote:
I have used a TG-5 for years with excellent results


This is the place to start!
Not knowing the level of experience, the desired results, the use or the subject the OP is interested in, this would be an appropriate starting point until the OP has enough experience, knowledge and clarity on outcome to move to something more. Right now the OP has failed to express enough clarity to advise a more costly or targeted approach.

Until you know where you want to go, choosing a route is pointless.
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May 18, 2021 11:28:12   #
wmurnahan wrote:
Timing and selective framing. These where taken at a a busy park near us. The last one does have people but they are so small and distant.


And........ the relevance is.......??????
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May 18, 2021 11:27:01   #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
It seems to me that every day there is a unique, different, and obscure newfangled way of rating cameras as to sensor performance and a long list of ultra-minuscule microscopic standards that most probably would not to the average photograher- even advanced amateur and professionals. This ISO Performace has some relevance but is not, in my opinion, the singular determining factor in invest in a camera system.

Here's a link to an explanation of ISO performance.

https://vasphotography.wordpress.com/tag/iso-performance/

It kind of a gauge of signal to noise kinda thing. It is a measurement of noise at given ISO sensitivity settings- even low numbers like ISO 100 or 200. So a camera with a better rating will show less noise at high settings like 1000, 1600, 3200, etc.

This rating has nothing to do with the camera's maximum ISO setting in and of itself. It gauges performance at all the ISO settings that the camera offers.

The attribute factors in of you are printing or exhibit your work at great degrees of enlargement, especially if you are in many "black cat in a coal mine at midnight: situations and especially if you need to have high ISO settings, smaller apertures for depth of field, and faster shutter speeds to stop motion.

Depending on the kinds of work you are doing, comparing camera "A" to camera "B"- I would suggest there are many other factors to consider including ergonomic handling, format, lens and accessory selection, weight, portability, general build and quality, SLR or Mirrorless, and more- not to mention price and budget considerations!

Decades ago, in the film era, low light shooting involved high-speed coarse-grained film pushed processed in dynamite-like developers. This would yield excessive gran and oftentimes lack of shadow detail but a story-telling image was to be had. Nowadays in digital photography, even a high ISO setting- and even on some of the order mode cameras, the NOISE is not all that terrible. I have made mural-size display prints shot with an old D-300 and D-700 at ISO 800 and 1600 that were surprisingly "grainless"!

Simply works backward from the work you intend doig, the exhibition size, the light levels you may find yourself in, the need for high IOS settings, fast shutter speeds and small apertures and asses YOUR requiremets on that basis. If you really need that extra ISO performance- by all means, consider it. The ultimate test is in the results. Before investing in a system I want to get a thorough demonstration. Written specifications and claims are fine bit I wanna SEE the difference!
It seems to me that every day there is a unique, d... (show quote)


If someone is using ISO performance as the primary purchase criteria, there is not much hope for the outcome.
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May 18, 2021 11:25:21   #
This thread has gone stupid.
Bye.
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May 17, 2021 11:04:23   #
Ysarex wrote:
As BebuLamar noted those are DXOMark ratings. Here's what they say about those numbers:

"When shooting sports or action events, the photographer’s primary objective is to freeze motion, giving priority to short exposure times. To compensate for the lack of exposure, photographers have to increase the ISO setting, which results in a decreased signal-to-noise ratio (SNR). How far can ISO be increased while maintaining decent image quality? The DxOMark low-light ISO metric will give you this information.

The SNR indicates how much noise is present in an image compared to the actual image information (signal). The higher the SNR value, the better the image quality, as detail is not drowned out by noise. The SNR is given in dB, which is a logarithmic scale: an increase of 6 dB corresponds to doubling the SNR, which in turn equates to half the noise for the same signal. A SNR value of 30dB means excellent image quality. We have therefore defined low-light ISO as the highest ISO setting for a camera that allows it to achieve a SNR of 30dB while keeping a good dynamic range of 9 EVs and a color depth of 18bits. A difference in low-light ISO of 25% equals 1/3 EV and is only slightly noticeable. Low-light ISO is an open scale.
" https://www.dxomark.com/dxomark-camera-sensor-testing-protocol-and-scores/

That still leaves a lot of questions about their methodology but, fairly assuming they're consistent in what they do, you can at least use those numbers as side by side comparison values for their tests. In other words DXO assigns a higher value to a camera with better low-light performance on their tests is as much as you can take from them.

Do as Paul suggested and look at real samples from a reviewer like DPreview.
As BebuLamar noted those are DXOMark ratings. Here... (show quote)


Real world trumps DXO every time. They are still measuring static lab conditions. They are not measuring "Sh*t, what is that to my left????" While swinging left to capture a shot. For that you have to seek out what professionals use in those conditions....


Hint it starts with "Ca" and ends with "non". Canon is still the only company out there that thinks field conditions first and lab test results ..... 80th. Ok maybe Canon does not rank those lab results quite that high.
Honestly, if I come to a decision that is so close that I need to look at DXO results, I have to go back and reexamine my whole evaluation.
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May 17, 2021 10:55:21   #
tradio wrote:
You could take several pictures (tripod mounted) over a period of time and then stack them.


I think this is the preferred approach.
Taking long exposures allows to much motion in the wished for subjects. Either by the subject (wind etc. especially when trees are in the background) or in the stability of the camera and mount.
Taking a series over time that allows you to stack and eliminate can provide more detail in the final image.
However, even some cell phone cameras have modes that allow the long exposure approach. I have not played with them, but some people seem to have had success.
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May 17, 2021 10:49:45   #
jradose wrote:
I am one of those people who needs more detailed explanation, so please, help this dummy. In comparing two cameras, I see something like this for ISO performance: Camera A 2980 Camera B 2853, So Camera A has better low light performance. Now, to me, that doesn't satisfy my curiosity. Just how much better is Camera A in taking photos in low light conditions, is it dignificant enough to sway me over to camera A?


OK. Again (because this non-specific kind of question is asked over and over and over again), what kind of low light photography? Long exposure of stationary subjects? Concert photography? Astro? It may or may not be significant depending on what EXACTLY you are trying to do.
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