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May 4, 2024 10:13:14   #
larryepage wrote:
What is the maximum aperture available on your 28-200 vs. on the 150-600 at the focal lengths you are shooting with each?
I suspect that you may have an upper ISO limit set that will not allow your camera to achieve proper exposure with the superzoom. Or your camera may for some reason not be properly recognizing the 28-200. Do you have the most current firmware loaded? It's also possible that your lens may need a firmware update.


I agree with Larry. Please check all of the settings in Auto ISO to make sure that there is nothing to prevent the ISO from reaching the needed max number. On my D850 I am usually in Aperture priority with Auto ISO or Manual with Auto ISO. When in Manual with ISO I set the shutter speed on the camera by turning the command dial on the right side of the camera. When I use Auto ISO my max ISO setting is the max ISO the camera can reach.
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May 1, 2024 11:02:26   #
If you were getting a new one, something like this: The leg sections needed depends on your height and the length of the collapsed monopod. Some of the older three section monopods are loner when collapsed.


https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1291111-REG/manfrotto_mpmxproa4us_aluminum_xpro_monopod.html/reviews
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May 1, 2024 10:27:02   #
I would search for a used aluminum monopod that has three leg extensions that will allow you to use it at 6 ft or slightly higher. Why used and aluminum? To keep your costs down.

If your lens has a tripod collar mount, consider getting a Wimberley monopod head for the monopod. I use a Quick Release clamp on my monopod. And I attach the Wimberley head to it. See manual for it for more info and ideas.

https://www.tripodhead.com/products/Instructions-mh-100.pdf

I prefer monopods with a 3/8 inch post (not 1/4 inch).
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May 1, 2024 10:10:48   #
Sinewsworn wrote:
Selling some DSLR gear. Took my D500 in hand and snapped a few pics. Great feeling and sound. That mirror moving up and down brings back fond memories.

Anyone else?


I still have and use my D500 even though I have and use a Z9!
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Apr 30, 2024 10:14:29   #
billnikon wrote:
My advice. Buy the Z8 with the adapter. Then, try all your lenses and see what you THEN like and don't like.


I second this approach. Only you can decide what F mount lens will work for you on your new Z8.
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Apr 24, 2024 10:36:38   #
The choice is yours. All three brands are good to very good. The camera needs to fit your hands and the viewfinder needs to work for you. Which eye you use to view can make a big difference in what brand or body you select.
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Apr 24, 2024 10:33:19   #
Saxguy wrote:
Hey gang, I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion on tripods for a trip to Iceland. I have 2 tripods. One is a lightweight Dolica Proline which I have had for several years and it is very compact. The other is a Sirui S-2205-N which I am using with a Sirui K-40X ball head. The Sirui is pretty much a monster for handling weight. The Dolica can handle my weight limits, but I wondered what others had done in their travels to Iceland. My goal is to take some longer exposures with ND filters and of course capture the Northern Lights. I may use an attached speedlight if necessary. The main concern I have is wind and what others found to consider on this trip. Either tripod will be packed as non carry-on due to just the airline bag requirements for size. Thanks for reading.
Hey gang, I was wondering if anyone had a suggesti... (show quote)


You are right to be concerned about wind issues in Ireland. I recommend a tripod that is a series two tripod. Series three would be even better. My travel tripod has four sections in each leg so it collapses to a size that it fits in my suitcase. It is an Induro carbon fiber tripod series two. Induro is owned by Benro. I would check out all of the Benro models but first look at the Benro Adventure series.
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Apr 24, 2024 10:25:55   #
JD750 wrote:
Odd it WAS working.

I pulled it out of the drawer and swapped lenses before turning it on. Would not autofocus. Toggle M/AF switch on lens. Still won’t autofocus. Power cycled, no good. Swapped back to 24-200mm and it still won’t autofocus.
Checked menu:
A6 AF Activation is set to AF-ON only

But pressing the AF-ON button does not activate the focus system.

Anyone had this problem or have any suggestions?


The problem may be related to the lens on the camera. Make sure that the focus limiter switch on the lens is NOT set to a range you are not using. Select Full range. I have discovered on my Z9 that the limit switch on a lens often gets moved to a setting that effectively disables AF. If you are using a lens that has a Control ring, make sure the setting for it is not causing AF problem. I have disabled my Control ring settings on my Z mount 100-400mm S lens.
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Apr 23, 2024 10:18:04   #
I shoot mostly nature and wildlife. My mirrorless camera is a Z9. My practice is to never limit ISO--I want the max ISO available so I can use fast shutter speeds (if needed) in low light situations. Needed shutter speeds are the priority for me and not noise. If I get too much noise, I fix it during post processing.

When I am shooting landscapes, I do try and limit ISO, if I am shooting on a tripod. The limit is accomplished through my shutter speed selection--a low shutter speed.

The camera is always in Auto ISO.
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Apr 23, 2024 10:10:52   #
Welcome to mirrorless. If you have not already done so, download the free guides from Nikon for your camera.

https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/products/556/Z_6II.html

And consider getting a guides written by a third party, like Thom Hogan:

https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-system-books/complete-guide-to-the-nikon-5.html

On my Z9, I use Back Button focusing (AF-ON) to lock in the focus point.
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Apr 21, 2024 12:28:07   #
I will add some to my earlier post above. Back wen I was shooting with slide film, I often used a Nikon 500mm f4 P lens with both the Nikon TC 14B (1.4x tc) and the TC 301 (2xtc) attached to my film camera. Resulting images were useable and acceptable if the whole rig was adequately supported (usually with two supports) and the shutter was triggered with a cable release. Focusing was done manually. Support and technique was critical.

Now that I am shooting digitally, support and technique is still important for good IQ images both with and without tcs and with and without cropping. My personal preference would be to add a tc before cropping in post. However, if good support or technique is not possible, then I would likely not add the tc and just crop.
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Apr 21, 2024 11:16:14   #
btbg wrote:
I decided to post these images because of recent discussions about whether or not people should use 2x extenders. I know these are birds, but putting them in the bird subsection will prevent the converter discussion.
The photos are taken with a Nikon 400f2.8s lens. The built in 1.4 converter is being used and coupled with a 2x converter. The wren also has a 5mm extension tube for closer focus.
So, the question is are these photos sharp enough, or should people not use the converters and attempt to gain the extra reach by cropping. I believe that any loss of image quality from using the converter is more than offset by the additional reach and the ability to come closer to filling the frame, but I thought it would be interesting to see where any discussion would go. Those of you who believe that no one should use teleconverters, go ahead and have your say. The photos will be posted in the first reply.
I decided to post these images because of recent d... (show quote)


The first picture appears to be sharper than the second. Since long lens technique, tripod support, focus method used, etc plays a huge role in the quality of the resulting images, it is hard to make any rule or comment about the use of a 2x tc.
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Apr 18, 2024 10:47:55   #
GVC48507 wrote:
I am thinking of replacing my Tamron 150-600 Di VC lens. I have a Nikon D7000 and a new Z7ii. I have been very happy with the Tamron it works well on the D7000, BUT it does not auto focus on the Z7ii. As best as I can find it is the firmware/software on the lens and cannot be updated. I love the Z7ii and the focusing capabilities. I am thinking of the Nikon's F mount 200-500 f/5.6 E ED (used it can be had for 900 range at MBP) or the Z mount 180-600 f/5.6-6.3 VR (new 1,700 no used listed that I have found). I have the F to Z adapter. I have been happy with my past used purchases from the usual suspects (KEH, B&H). I have a few F mount lens those that autofocus work with the F2Z adapter and work on the Z7ii. I have two Z mount lenses 24-120 and the 105, both are S lenses and have to me outstanding image quality. I would be using this lens for birds and other nature photos. If you have either or both which do you think has the best image quality and would be my best option?
I am thinking of replacing my Tamron 150-600 Di VC... (show quote)


I shoot with Nikon glass on my Z9 and have no personal experience with Tamron glass.

Brad Hill recommends the Tamron Z 150-500mm F5-6.7 Di III VC VXD at his blog:

http://www.naturalart.ca/voice/blog.html

See what he says about Nikon and Tamron glass in his blog postings around Dec 2023 and 2024.

If I were you I would consider getting the Nikon 180-600mm Z mount lens for your Z7ii.

Based on just specs, unless there is not enough light, I think your current Tamron lens with the FTZ adapter ought to AF on your Z7ii.
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Apr 14, 2024 11:04:27   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Because you open the raw in Photoshop and PS doesn't apply the same settings you set on the camera so the pictures are different. So you have to make adjustment with the ACR to make the pic looks the same or better. If you use Nikon NX Studio to open the raw file they would look identical to the JPEG.


This is exactly what I was going to write in response to your post.

I will add: In your D500 (and any other Nikon camera) set Picture Controls for the look you want for the image captured by the camera and the Jpeg processed in the camera. If you do not know what Picture Controls are go to NikonUsa or your camera manual and read about them.

https://imaging.nikon.com/imaging/support/digitutor/d500/techniques/201601_12_02_sl.html


I use Nikon NX Studio to view my RAW images and cull them before any processing of RAW (NEF) files. NXStudio renders the imbedded Jpeg with the Picture Control settings. If you have an image where in camera color and white balance setting are important to preserve, make a Tiff of that image and then process the Tiff in your post processing softare.

For many RAW images captured correctly in camera, Nx Studio may be the only post processing program you need to use.

For some of my images, NX Studio is all that I use. For others I use DXO PL7 and the NIK Collection.
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Apr 11, 2024 10:22:10   #
Patrickf wrote:
Are you definitely pressing the OK button to confirm format, not just the centre button in the menu control. ( Done that myself).


Patrick suggestion is a good one. I have made this same mistake myself.
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