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Mar 26, 2015 10:24:45   #
JonZ wrote:
Back in the day, when using six fixed-focal length lenses, I practiced changing lenses quickly while sitting on my bed. You'll find a method that works best for you.

I hold the new lens in my left hand, rear facing camera, loosen the rear cap and hold it in place with my left hand little finger. I loosen the lens on camera with my right hand, take the rear cap from the new lens w/thumb and forefinger of right hand while holding old lens with palm and rest of fingers. New lens is mounted w/left hand and rear cap placed on lens just removed. Now, wasn't that simple?

Practice. Practice.
Back in the day, when using six fixed-focal length... (show quote)


How do you carry your bed when on a trek?
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Mar 26, 2015 08:39:15   #
Papa j wrote:


Secondly they are both manual focus and do focus nicely but I do not always get the in focus dot in my camera. Is it always necessary to get the in focus confirmation. The pictures do come out in focus
I am shooting a Nikon 7000 and 750
Thank you all


I'm not sure how well I can express this, but for most scenes where depth of field is important, I will use the focus indicator to nail the near and far distances, then set the aperture and focus according to the depth of field scale on the lens. Since I use single point focusing, when I compose that point may not be in focus and the indicator will not be lit. When the aperture stops down for the exposure, that point will be in focus (does this make any sense?).
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Mar 26, 2015 06:58:19   #
traveler90712 wrote:
I've followed this with interest.
A zoom lens may pose a different problem.

"The data fro different focal lengths can be entered as separate lens numbers........................" (pg 173)

Does this mean, that for each focal point one must enter the data as a separate lens OR just enter the aperture and not the focal length?

If I do not have to enter the focal length AND I have more then one lens that has the same aperture, do I have to enter the other len(s)?

OR

Am I up too late and have misinterpreted what I've read? :thumbdown:
Maybe I should just read it again in the morning.
I've followed this with interest. br A zoom lens... (show quote)


According to the Df manual, entering the focal length only enables the use of power zoom with certain flash units. Entering both maximum aperture and focal length, besides displaying the aperture, only enables color matrix metering and improves TTL flash metering. It would be a major pain to go into the menu each time you zoom, so with those flash units it would be best to use an AF lens. Otherwise, I see no point in entering the focal length.
And, if you're not entering the focal length, you only need to assign a number for each maximum aperture, not every focal length.
Personally, I've never been in that menu - just set the aperture and adjust the shutter speed to suit, spot and centre-weighted metering is accurate. Haven't tried a non-AI lens yet, though, only stop-down metering, AI & AIS.
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Mar 25, 2015 11:45:55   #
I was about to add "with the exception or ortho film," but I see I have been corrected. Thanks.
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Mar 25, 2015 10:30:32   #
Architect1776 wrote:
Yes it will as the DSLR "sees" all the color spectrum we can see. The safelights were for B&W film that was not sensitive (Very much) to the various safelights matched to it. So a "red" safelight will show red when photographed.


Actually, safelights are for black and white printing paper, not film.
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Mar 25, 2015 10:26:06   #
tomeveritt wrote:
Hi Jim Bob,

Try to ignore "SharpShooter's" condescending, holier than thou, remarks. Use your DSLR with pride and be happy. Many, Many, pros use only JPEGs. It must make him feel superior to talk down to people as the source of his imagined Wisdom.


Pretty hard to get down low enough to talk down to the likes of Jim Bob and his supporters.
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Mar 25, 2015 10:21:18   #
Also, for information on any other lens, check your user's manual, under "Non-CPU Lens" or "Non AI Lens."
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Mar 25, 2015 08:55:43   #
rehess wrote:
I got an Epson scanner but was dissatisfied with the results, partly because I had trouble keeping the glass clean and partly because of what I call "flare", very bright areas bleeding into adjacent very dark areas. I had much more success with a Plustek scanner, which is slower in the scanning partly because it scans each image twice and then provides an HDR-type correction, but required much less time in Photo Shop afterwards. My best scanner, which I have used to scan over 2500 slides over the years, is a Nikon LS-2000, which I bought refurbished on eBay, but Nikon no longer makes scanners, and this model requires that I keep a Win XQ computer going because of hardware and software compatibility issues.
I got an Epson scanner but was dissatisfied with t... (show quote)


I'm not sure, but perhaps this will support your LS-2000:

http://www.hamrick.com/
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Mar 25, 2015 08:47:06   #
Jim Bob wrote:
I know this topic has been covered with some folks saying they "always" shoot RAW and others indicating that in most cases with a good DSLR there is no noticeable difference except in huge enlargements. Let's see some proof, either way. I will note that I shot a photo of our house in both formats and could not see any difference in an 8 x 10 print.


Even a rank amateur has sense enough to know that any differences cannot be discerned on a computer monitor, so posting pictures in this thread is as pointless as the thread itself. I could add more complimentary comments, but must go shoot some RAW images now. Cheers!
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Mar 24, 2015 12:47:54   #
Papa j wrote:
Thank you so much you have been a big help.


Any time, feel free.
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Mar 24, 2015 11:16:46   #
Papa j wrote:
Thank you that worked fine. Any advise about the manual focus issue


If you're unaccustomed to manual focusing, it can take a bit of practice, especially with moving subjects. As always, you'll want your diopter properly adjusted, and rely on the electronic focus indicator particularly in low light and low contrast conditions.
If you're as old as me and remember the old adage, "keep the sun to your back," that holds for these lenses. While the optics are nearly the same as those in their pro-built counterparts, not all elements are NIC coated and you'll lose contrast shooting into the light, so a good hood is especially important.
Those are good sharp lenses - enjoy. :)
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Mar 24, 2015 08:00:49   #
Papa j wrote:
I recently purchased 2 used lens;
1 Nikon 50 E manual ( pancake lens) the lens is great it is clean pictures are clear and sharp. The aperture ring shows 1.8 but my viewfinder reads 2.8 and one stop higher for each of the other stops.

2 Nikon 70-210 f4 E great lens clean great sharp images the f4 stop reads 2.8 in my view Finder.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Secondly they are both manual focus and do focus nicely but I do not always get the in focus dot in my camera. Is it always necessary to get the in focus confirmation. The pictures do come out in focus
I am shooting a Nikon 7000 and 750
Thank you all
I recently purchased 2 used lens; br 1 Nikon 50 E ... (show quote)


In your user's manual, under "Non CPU lenses," it should explain how to enter the lens focal length and maximum aperture in the set-up menu. At least that's how it is with the Df manual.
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Mar 24, 2015 07:33:19   #
SharpShooter wrote:
DI, I don't know anything about Nikons except that Nikon people seem to hoard old glass, so your not likely to get any Nikon lenses.
So my suggestion is, since I assume those old bodies are all manual, and if not, the students will be shooting manual regardless, that you look to see what the cheapest lenses one can get, of any brand, then get cheap adapters to mount them.
Just a thought.
SS


We don't hoard them, SS, we USE them!
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Mar 24, 2015 07:29:17   #
jrf3253 wrote:
I was given a c.1972 Nikkormat and am wondering where some lense options might be.


Try a Google search, there are many available. For TTL metering, any Nikon mount lens with the meter prong will work.
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Mar 24, 2015 07:18:20   #
John N wrote:
Sad to say, but our village photography club is dying on its feet. There is about 8 - 10 regulars and sometimes a few others, but it's going nowhere positive fast. Myself I'm considering alternatives. But the local club has benefits, not least it's a short walk from home and it myself and a neighbour can pop into the 'Royal Oak' for a pint and a dram afterwards.

I'm not a great photographer myself, more a snapologist with some half decent equipment that I've yet to really get on top of. It would be true to say I know a lot more than I stop to practise.

At the end of a good presentation on white balance last night (just 8 there) I asked if anyone knew about the Village Community Facebook page. Don't do Facebook was a general reply. So I put a short message up and it has garnered more interest than our previous village show attempts over the past few years combined! I've pretty much suggested that equipment is irrelevant, a phone camera can do wonders these days. So I've ambled on long enough - but here is my question;

If you were in a similar position and wanted to kickstart the club with a new membership intake that might include raw beginners what subjects would you start off with? I'm thinking a 'types of camera' presentation (needs to be short) and a 'key points that might add a twist to whatever you're taking' chat. The hope is that some might go away and think a little more about what they see and return next Autumn invigorated and wanting more.

If this doesn't work I'm probably of myself.

All suggestions most welcome, and if you've been here before and have a presentation that you're prepared to let us use (I can only offer a credit to yourself and this site) it might prove most helpful.

Thank you

John Norris.
Sad to say, but our village photography club is dy... (show quote)


Rather than sitting around talking about it, get out and do it! Something like an excursion to Nottingham might be in order (the only Hooter's I'm aware of).
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