As the posting party mentions scratched plastic casing, note that there are fillers to address that.

The felt in larger cases is rarely so intact as yours and this is a huge plus. The key to desirability of any decorative arts or technical equipment is condition, for example, all-original and collector-grade mint, as in camera lenses. Look, for example at the scopes and scientific-measurement pieces in the Zwinger museum, as a baseline. You may be able to nail condition here, by completing the set -- authentically.

A second key to desirability, lots of fun, is identifying what the object is and that is often tough. You may need to go so far as to check factory documents, but it looks to me like you have an item from the golden age of Japanese camera-equipment making and I expect you can readily find a catalog on eBay that mentions your kit, as there are over one-hundred available right now. Identification establishes rarity. It is exceptional to have desirability, even with rarity, when condition is marginal.

To see how this catalog stuff can fill in your knowledge gaps, consider, for example, Nikkor lenses from about the time frame of your kit. To understand makers' intent for old Nikkors, I have assembled Nikon catalogs and a number of old books from the F-mount/MF/film era. For my three 50mm MF f/1.4s, this has helped me understand their development sequence and merits (like the coating improvement on the S.C which followed the three S models) among the nine pre-AF 50mm f/1.4 variants.

Wrt identification, last week, I wrote to a clock museum in France and asked for their help to identify a mantle clock (une pendule).
Before the museum responded my wife realized the maker's signature began with a Q, rather than with a G.
This resulted in finding out that the clock maker made the clock at the Montparnasse metro station, and that he enjoys quite a lot of recognition. This clock episode entailed lots of time, some despair, and finally a sense of winning, while reflecting well on my wife.

The item you have deserves to be protected from oblivion and destruction. For a quick win, consider identifying it exactly, enjoying it, and then donating a complete kit, while possibly securing a valid tax deduction.

Yeah. I've got 16 GB on one of those 2011 babies now. Just added a dock to get 3.0 USB to match my 33MB camera.
I think a search on my name at UHH would bring up more content on this topic, two posts.

I have lost a lot of time with continuous lights of all kinds. And don't even ask about too-small/weak softeners.

Wrt lighting, I have moved to true strobes for small-product photography; never going back.

I'm still working it out but a never-mentioned advantage of strobes is ability to finely control intensity of each source, say, to a tenth of a stop. That is, with continuous, you inherently have a problem of too much/little light -- so you get veiled flare/overexposure/underexposure -- when positioning the sources at a given distance. Put another way, how likely is a set of lights to be at just the right intensities? With three continuous lights the improbability is multiplicative three-fold and that is big-time unlikely, by definition. Just sayin'.

With the right strobes, you can make quantified adjustments and compare.

My digest daily email went away a few days ago. What to do to recover? My UHH Search on missing... produces a bunch of USA political stuff, LoL.

A post on this topic said, "...anytime." Actually, if you are on Pacific Time, FEW read your posts. This is a major, low-hanging opportunity for UHH to improve, for hogs in many time zones, if not for twenty-three zones; a case of GMT-ism?? Too bad that few will see this post from the Pacific time zone.

Often on eBay, non-AI (Auto, pre-AI) lenses are named as such but have been retrofitted with Nikon's factory-AI kit, converting them to the later AI mount. In other words, often, the seller does not know the offered lens carries the kit and so is more versatile and useful than a pre-AI lens lacking this update. Look for small white numbers under the fork/prong of Auto lenses; prong should have two "nostrils" rather than being solid.

The Nikon kit is about extending the life of an Auto lens, [i]via[/] the mount -- not about lens-camera digital communication. Don't bother trying to buy just these kits, for most lenses you are likely to have. Just buy a converted lens. These are readily found.

You can mill (trim) the bottom of an Auto lens to get you where the Nikon kit does. In my case I planned to do that and then realized that these lenses will endure for hundreds of years, as have my 18-th century decorative arts; we are just the transient custodians of Auto lenses; that is, we owe a responsibility to these lenses' integrity. Accordingly, you can consider how you feel about editing the intact form of an Auto lens beyond the maker's intent. In the case of 18th C furniture, the respect -- value -- always moves toward the pristine.

Similarly, many sellers fail to understand that Auto lenses with .C on the lens front are later and better-coated. For example, prefer the (later) 50mm f/1.4 S.C to the (earlier) 50mm f/1.4 S.

Finally, as one hog here has more or less said, consult (believe only) your user's manual about compatibility. Elsewhere, you may or may not encounter deficient information.

Oops! Sent this and realized that what I said about nobility applies to the name, Karoly, but not to your name, Nagy.
Your family name has three letters in Hungarian, N, a, and gy. So your family name lacks the y indicator of nobility.
Maybe you'll have to arrogate unto yourself, as I do, a Don! ;>)

Giving myself airs, when speaking Spanish, I identify myself a "Don." Always for laughs and to break the ice, but sort of like you do with Nagy.

Your mention of Hungarian-language Nagy Karoly (Karl ~ Charles) usage has a little-known feature which is the final "y", which [ee] sound reliably indicated noble standing earlier. So you are not only great but of the nobility!!!

In Hungarian, nagy means big (adj.) and, as you suggest, has been suitably extended in Hungarian usage to Nagy as "the Great".
Yeah about Charlemagne, but it derives from Lat. for "big Karl/Charles" -- Karolus Magnus. This origin in Latin accounts for the similar "Karol" root of the Hungarian name.

My favorite Mr. Big story is from a French newspaper headline in Montreal I saw about "Monsieur Big" whose identity is still not known; he was the brains behind a successful hijack of a gold shipment in the early-mid seventies at Dorval, the Montreal airport. So, the French speak of, say, le Grand Condé as great, including a capital G, but the French have a separate usage taken strictly from English's Mr. Big.

The whole topic is fraught...As I recall, and I am unsure, in Russian, the Prussia-born Catherine the Great is sometimes simply Yekaterina, written with Cyrillic's epsilon/єстъ (but pronounced, [Yay]). However, she is likewise "the Great: Екатерина II Велика. This optional simplification is just like Fredrich is simply Friedrich and also Friedrich der Grosse. And then we have Alexander (the Great). Apparently, if you are great enough, you don't need "the Great," as in Napoleon.

It's time to replace
If you should replace it, I'll buy it from you, Mr. Big/Nagy. Well, you asked for "informed ideas" - read on. I sense how serious you are.

Your 2011 machine is so good that Apple later began soldering memory, to keep people from upgrading memory and using these laptops forever. Check with OWC, a Mac vendor, to find out if your serial number can handle 16GB; their information is more authoritative even than Apple's and they are reliable. See comment from burkphoto about specs. Your Mac definitely was designed for 8GB but that is a "design error" because it can handle 16GB chips not available at time of manufacture. Yours could have been made in 2010 and sold to you in 2011; in this case, not all Macs from 2010 can handle 16GB -- the serial number and an OWC query are your key.

In fairness to you, I'd say go to a shop that works on computers and schedule same-day/overnight metrics and upgrades. Or, with a reservoir of trepidation, go to an Apple store and see if they will do all of the stuff in this post; they are better for peephole fixes. I have nearly fifty years of low-level computer experience including as a cloud architect; I stopped supporting my home equipment about fifteen years ago because I cannot know enough. I am really bent for your sake that you are trying to fix this yourself. There is too much you cannot know unless you work on this stuff daily.

It is cheaper and adequate wrt Creative Cloud to finish modernizing your 2011 and the results will be comparable to getting a new Mac laptop.
I know. Here is why I know.

I just last week upgraded my 2011 Mac laptop with Sierra, 16GB, SSD, internal backup drive (where the DVD sat) and ordered a Thunderbolt dock with (via Thunderbolt) USB 3.x for attaching my D810. At exactly the same time, I got my wife a NEW highest-end Macbook Pro 15". So far, life is good with our identical 34" curved IPS monitors. My wife is no longer is bedeviled by a Windows laptop and we are both more secure, backed up better, and she slickly picks up finished photo work from from my 2011 laptop. If the 2011 were at its end-of-days, I'd have got one of the new ones coming out in a few days for myself instead of staying with the 2011.

A serious error we make is to want to find the problem. Sometimes, it is not worthwhile and it is better to preclude the problem.

Some serious possible problem areas you can preclude through modernization -- you may be subject to one or all of these:
-Hard disk thrashing, off and/or on the disk, for any number of reasons; get an SSD
-Minimize use of most internal data paths: push IO through Thunderbolt; get a dock
-Have a service shop check your new 16GB of memory for availability and performance, in case of improper install or defects
-Have a service shop do a clean install onto an SSD, installing from scratch Sierra, tethering software, Adobe stuff, and Office 365; measure, at the service shop, when you bring it in and after all these things have been addressed
-To perfectly save your data when moving to an SSD, put your hard drive where your DVD drive is; don't forget to do a clean install of all software onto the SSD
-Look at your wireless and wired paths; consider an Airport Time Capsule (name??) tower and an external drive to bring in from your office or car once a week and plug into Airport; use cat 6 wiring wherever possible
-Scrap any Fire-wire stuff
-AT&T found four problems Saturday and raised my broadband download by speed over 50% to far above what I pay for; get your Internet provider on-site to analyze your service numbers, replace your aging interface to the street, check the lines to the neighborhood provider box, replace your on-premises gateway with a very very new model, and ensure a match of your backup gateway power to the new gateway (or better yet, ditch the backup power and accept an occasional outage)
-Upon recovering from this situation, consider getting a service contract; I think my two cost $300 or $400 each. This will keep you on schedule

Consider getting a 34" IPS monitor; you cannot be fully at ease about colors with the Mac screen, although the image is great.

Let the service shop do the backup before work begins. They can do this faster, with the drive in their own dock. But, see comment from letmedance.

To recover your schedule, ask your service shop if they will loan you a machine while they have yours.

"...there are a few of us here..."

First of all, I'm in love with your dog!

I'm using a Nikon and I bought an Asahi Pentax Takumar 135mm f/3.5 (SMC and maybe later than yours) on Oct. 19th ($38 shipped, now in transit) and a 55mm f/2 on the 21st ($50 shipped, now in transit).

My new lensless adapter (~$10) has already arrived, a Fotodiox Lens Mount Adapter (M42 to Nikon v.2 (Chrome)) -- call 866.812.1107. I have heard it is not useful at infinity but that is not where I shoot. Hope it is the right adapter for Nikon; we'll see.

This is a highly respected lens.

I realize that this now has sold, but here are comments that all concerned may find useful.

This has the appearance of an AI lens, being the post-H.C version, whose barrel moved into the AI version. The AI version of this lens is a great asset. Low distortion wide open. The BR-2 reversing ring delivers close-up and macro.

The "bad" news:
WRt comments on the model, this is without question a pre-AI variant.
The green coating is and the serial number support my remark.
So as originally manufactured, it cannot be used on, say, a D810.

The good news:
This non-AI lens has been fitted by an early owner with an AI mount.
The more desirable AI version of this lens is the same as this version on UHH, except the mount of the UHH lens has been updated to AI.
It is possible that the coating changed for the true AI version, but I very much doubt it.
There is no later version than the true AI version, so, for example, you are not able to get better optics or a NIC coating.

Price:
The seller's price is suitable. KEH charges more for AI; I know, as I bought an AI variant recently and recorded the prices as just under $100.
For all practical purposes, the UHH lens is an AI lens, but really, it is not because the pre-AI UHH lens shown here has been updated from pre-AI to AI, in a Nikon-sanctioned manner, using Nikon's factory kit.

A related example is the derivative of the 55mm, the 60mm micro from Nikon. It has a HN-22 metal hood. This implies that Nikon has for a very long time wanted a hood used with its recessed macro lenses like you have.

This is a genre (normal macro) question as much as a Canon question. I think Nikon would say, "Generally, use the hood." See third paragraph for some evidence.

It is widely commented that a recessed lens such as yours reduces the need for a hood so that a hood may be pointless, though a hood may be available. An article I read last night about a comparable macro lens to yours, Nikon's 55mm f/3.5, says as much: "La longue rampe très enveloppante est caractéristique de ce genre d’objectif, et rend le pare-soleil à peu près inutile." http://www.dg77.net/photo/nikon/micro05535.htm

A similar Nikon macro example is the Nikkor 55mm f/3.5. I've noticed my 50 1.4 Auto F hood fits that early Nikkor lens. The HN-3 hood and its variant fit, as well, and Nikon targeted this hood at the 55mm f/3.5, according to a hood box I have. That said, I try to always use a hood. Wish I knew why Nikon wants me to use the HN-3 hood but they certainly do.

A good example of a macro lens with high potential for interfering with the light, even without a hood, is the 40mm DX macro from Nikon. Common sense says Nikon would recognize the interference issue, and I seem to recall that my 40mm manual touches on the matter.

In favor of Nikon Camera Control Pro 2 (exact name?), which I have bought and which I'm installing now: Nikon sw shows the scene before you shoot. Lr cannot. How huge is that??

Such useful comments!
I'm taking delivery tomorrow of an Epson for photos, regular-size paper.