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May 5, 2020 07:03:15   #
rcarol wrote:
I use WeTransfer.com. I use the free version which is limited to 2 GB total.


Me too!
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May 4, 2020 06:58:27   #
I use CartridgeAmerica for ink no problems and use a variety of papers
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May 4, 2020 06:55:43   #
ImageCreator wrote:
I am using it as a plugin to photoshop. It was free with my camera purchase from B&H. I have used it mainly for sky alterations and have no issues. When I use it, its with RAW files and it seems to work fine. I can recommend it as a PS plugin.


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May 3, 2020 08:45:21   #
As for Nikon service, I have paid for shipping to them on all products. They paid shipping on warranty items back to me, otherwise I paid shipping.
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May 2, 2020 06:36:30   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
You can download a free PDF copy of the camera manual from the support section of the Nikon website. Simply search for the camera model on the site.


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May 1, 2020 08:53:18   #
Gene51 wrote:
Depends on the lens. Most lenses hit their stride stopping down 2-3 stops from wide open. On a 50mm F1.4 lens it is already sharp at F4 in the center, it gets a little better at the corners and edges as you stop down a little more. A 600mmF4 is usually sharpest wide open. Some actually get worse at F5.6. My Sigma 150-600 Sport is best at F7.1 - F8. And so on . . .

It doesn't matter how good your lenses are, this is a simple fact, lenses have good apertures, and diffraction, which is always there, will start to be significant at F11 on low res full frame cameras, and already impacting sharpness at F5.6 on M4/3 cameras. Smaller sensor cameras don't even have mechanical apertures smaller than F5.6 or F8, resorting to internal neutral density filters to control exposure.

The sweet spot is really helpful when you are doing focus stacking - no point in going through the effort if you aren't using the best aperture to get the best sharpness. Also, particularly on fast lenses, lens flaws like field curvature, coma, chromatic aberration and other flaws are at their worst when the lens is wide open - whether you spend $100 or $4000 for a lens.

Some lenses are exceptional - like the Nikkor 105mm F1.4 - which is oustandingly sharp at all apertures until diffraction sets in at F8. The 200mm F2 is in the same company, also extremely sharp - it should be for $7000. But even it improves a bit at F5.6 over F2.

Now you can get some excellent results using F11, F16 and in some cases F22 - with certain subject matter - like macro. The reason is that your visual perception is seeing fine details magnified - even if those fine details aren't that fine. I guess what I am trying to say is that details that you look for when viewing an image at greater distances by moving up close you can see because the macro image is magnified, without the need to move in. So the image "appears" to be super sharp when in reality it is a little soft. But the perception of sharpness is informed by the unusual amount of magnified detail that you would have to move up close to see. Not sure if my choice of words is making the point.

Ignoring the sweet spot is a bit like leaving money on the table in a business transaction. No point in getting the best lenses if you are not using the best apertures for the best image quality whenever possible - creativity with depth of field aside for a moment.
Depends on the lens. Most lenses hit their stride ... (show quote)


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May 1, 2020 08:51:58   #
Bob Mevis wrote:
I was a CAD Draftsman for ten years in the early 2000's.never lost a files and, we had hundreds of thousands of them and I still use our filing system to this day. Sorry for my panic.

Use a backup like BackBlaze
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Apr 30, 2020 09:38:31   #
BooIsMyCat wrote:
Practice, practice, practice.


My answer also!!
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Apr 30, 2020 09:36:59   #
burkphoto wrote:
Lightroom and Photoshop Elements are like apples and oranges.

Lightroom 6.14 is long gone, left in the dust. Photoshop Elements 2020 is still available. Serif's Affinity Photo is a much better value.

The least expensive Adobe Photography Plan ($9.99/month subscription) INCLUDES both Photoshop 2020 (the FULL, monster version), Lightroom CLASSIC (desktop computer successor to Lightroom 6.14), PLUS Adobe Bridge, an always up-to-date version of Adobe Camera Raw (ACR), and Lightroom CC, which is the cloud-based version that runs on Macs, Windows PCs, iOS tablets and phones, and Android devices.

Most of us here use Lightroom CLASSIC and Photoshop 2020. They complement one another.

Lightroom Classic is an image database, cull editor, rating system, raw developer using the ACR engine, parametric image editor, web poster, file exporter, print engine, photo book layout system... (Parametric means you use sliders to adjust global attributes such as contrast, color, exposure, etc.)

Photoshop is a completely different concept. It is a full-blown bitmap image editor with very mature and rich features developed since the late 1980s. It has no image database, although you can use it with Lightroom or Bridge to manage collections of images. Photoshop works in layers, has masking, text creation capabilities, and most of the image editing tools you could ever hope for. It is far more advanced than Photoshop Elements (which used to be known as Photshop Lite Edition).
Lightroom and Photoshop Elements are like apples a... (show quote)


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Apr 29, 2020 10:24:44   #
Classic is the way to go!!!
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Apr 29, 2020 07:51:05   #
kpmac wrote:
Steve Perry's ebook on wildlife photography would be a great asset for you.


Agree!
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Apr 28, 2020 08:07:29   #
rpavich wrote:
Ok...after a chat with adobe and a few mis-installs of the wrong product...lol...I'm good to go.

They certainly don't make it easy.


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Apr 28, 2020 07:37:53   #
Download LR CLASSIC, you will be fine then
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Apr 27, 2020 08:21:52   #
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
Since you have the latest version of Lightroom, you also have the latest version of Photoshop, right? Try right-clicking on an image in LR and choose Edit in Photoshop. Make sure Photoshop is open before the command is selected.

Once the image loads in PS, do Ctrl (or Command)-J to create a new layer, then choose the external editor like NiX, Affinity, etc. You should always apply edits in PS in a new layer. You have more control with blending the final image by adjusting Opacity.

When done, choose File/Save and the processed image will appear back in Lightroom as a TIFF or DNG file.
Since you have the latest version of Lightroom, yo... (show quote)


Or a PSD file, which I prefer.
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Apr 27, 2020 08:17:39   #
CO wrote:
The D7500 is a significant upgrade from the D5100. The D3xxx and D5xxx series Nikons have a pentamirror viewfinder. If you go to a D7xxx series or above Nikon you get a superior pentaprism viewfinder. The glass prism inside gives a larger, slightly brighter view through the viewfinder. The D7500 also has the great U1 and U2 memory banks on the mode dial, dual command wheels, and a superior autofocus system.


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