Nothing a little cropping won't take care of in post
I've got eight different true macro lenses from 55 to 180mm. Some are AF, others are manual focus. I do use a ring light for additional illumination. The other benefits of that are that it allows me to stop the aperture down for additional DOF and the short duration of the flash stops motion, be it mine or my subjects... My go-to macro lens is an older MF 105mm F2.8. A "faster" lens will allow more light onto the viewfinder than a slower one and that can help with focusing...Most zooms labeled "Macro" are in actuality just close focusing as noted before, and both Vivitar & Nikon marketed "True" macro zoom lenses, unlike most zooms they were flat fiels designs and went to at least 1/2 life size.. OP, you don't mention what camera you have. Many of the base model cameras will only work with current design lenses. I have 3 different Nikon bodies that allow me to use older MF technology and still get metering, should I desire to do so (I don't though).... The Flickr link after my signature will take you to my Flickr stream where you can see some of my macro shots.
A most humorous read. Pity the poor novice trying to learn something!
pesfls wrote:
I am curious although it’s not a big deal to me; I have a micro Nikkor P Auto 3.5 by 55mm I purchased new in 1971 or thereabouts. It is non AI. The barrel says at minimum focus distance it is 1:1. What am I missing. Regardless, it still functions perfectly and I like it.
I have an earlier f/3.5 and a newer f:2.8. Neither will copy a full 24x36mm 35mm slide... just 12x18mm. You had to have an M2 or PK3 or PK13 extender ring to get 1:1.
burkphoto wrote:
I have an earlier f/3.5 and a newer f:2.8. Neither will copy a full 24x36mm 35mm slide... just 12x18mm. You had to have an M2 or PK3 or PK13 extender ring to get 1:1.
I still have the extension ring but haven’t mounted it in years. Just the lens. That was my recollection but it’s been so long I wasn’t sure anymore. Thanks for rebooting my memory. Appreciate it.
Think of a Nikon 3300DX with a 35mm f1.8 prime lens. First, it meets your price point. Second, that body doesn't have an autofocus motor in the body--it relies on the lens have the motor. So that saves size and weight. Third, that 35mm prime is small and light, sharp, good for low light, and good for street photography. When I was using that lens, I got chromatic aberration in bright light but otherwise very sharp, quick and good for landscapes, buildings, and people (inside and out).
bankcspmte wrote:
Think of a Nikon 3300DX with a 35mm f1.8 prime lens. First, it meets your price point. Second, that body doesn't have an autofocus motor in the body--it relies on the lens have the motor. So that saves size and weight. Third, that 35mm prime is small and light, sharp, good for low light, and good for street photography. When I was using that lens, I got chromatic aberration in bright light but otherwise very sharp, quick and good for landscapes, buildings, and people (inside and out).
https://www.techtota.comThink of a Nikon 3300DX with a 35mm f1.8 prime len... (
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Thing is though, it’s not a macro lens thus this post isn’t relevant to this thread.
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