BebuLamar

How poor is the s/n? How many dB?

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

The nice thing is they are so small you'll hardly notice it, your strobe will sit slightly higher, which isn't a bad thing, and unless you are absolutely positively sure there is no issue, you went the safe route.

Leitz Loc: Solms

Please explain to us how a Safe Sync will make a Sunpak 611 sit higher.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Thanks Gene! I had that one in my computer but it would not download correctly. I know it does not specify the triggrer voltage but I thought the OP would find it useful- it's quite a well written manual. I suspect, sometime over it's production run the manufacturer modified the design of the trigger circuit. Even before digital camera, high trigger voltages coud damage synch mechanisms and if the polarity of the synch cord was reversed, the body of some cameras could become "live" and deliver some discomfort to the photographer and coase erratic firing.

Whenever these questions arise, there is always controversy and arguments- some folks insist that certain Nikon modes can tolerate higher voltages and that all theses warnings are myths. Regardless of the specifications from the camera manufacturers and the reported listings on the various old strobes, it's always a good idea to test for the exact trigger voltage especially on older flash units. Some of the old models have surprisingly high trigger voltages that were even known to carbonize and burn out synch contacts on film cameras. Even old units that are known to have lower trigger voltage may have become damaged or certain parts in the trigger circuit can malfunction and causes elevated voltages and currents to pass thru the camera. Some old units had a thyratron vacuum tube in their trigger circuits that acts as a relay or switch to minimize voltage entering the camera. If this tube malfunctions, the unit will still operate but the trigger voltage can be extremely high. A digital multimeter, like the one in my post, is not expensive. It can be used to check out trigger voltages and polarity, doing continuity tests of synch cords and cables, and testing household line voltage.

I don't know if it will interphase with any of the current TTL systems- seems doubtful but the auto flash feature is decent and of course, manual operation is no problem. As an off camera ligh source, it will operate with most of the currently available radio-slave systems- Pocket Wizard- Buff and some of the less expensive imports. It will also work reliably with a simple photoelectric slave cell, responding to an on-camera speedlight.

The Sunpack 611 is a nice unit- it is significantly more powerful than most current speedlights, has a nice ECPS rating and a decent angle of coverage. The auto-flash system works well. If the OP's unit is operating reliably and the capacitors have not been deformed due to age and dormant storage, investing the time in checking out the trigger voltage and, if required, purchasing a Safe -Synch adapter, it's worth the effort.

On older flash gear, it's a good practice to reform the capacitors by powering the unit up and allowing it to remain on WITHOUT flashing it for an hour or two. Then, resume flashing- if the recycling times are consistent and their are no crackling sounds, pops or smoke- the unit is ready to press into service.

As I have mentioned before, I used to operate a side business of electronic flash repairs, custom builds and modifications. I am not trying to be an alarmist and claim that all older flash gear are booby-traps and sources of electrocution waiting to happen. I shared my shop with a camer repair specialist and between us-well- we can tell some stories-not about death but about some rather nasty injuries and mostly injuries to the bank account!

There are some "myths" about cameras "frying, burning up, blowing up" etc due to high trigger voltages. Well- theses are colorful figures of speech but there is some truth. Simply sated, all the nice little semiconductors, chips and parts in you camera's electronics just don't like high voltages or currents- they operate on rather tiny voltages so if you over-volt them the won't violently explode, set fire to the camera or the photographer, or make noise- they just unceremoniously and quietly drop dead and sometimes beyond resurrection! Better safe than sorry!

BebuLamar

High sync voltage isn't only harmful to cameras. Voltages more than 100V can give someone a shock. So I can see the trend to switch to lower voltage began before the requirements by the camera.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Meant to be used with a bracket or hand-held connected by a cord to a unit that attaches to the hot shoe.

Sunkpak 611 AKA: Potato masher style

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Theses accessories fit on the hot shoe, so with a typical speedlight the flash unit will mount atop the adapter, thereby raising it by an inch or two- not significent. In other words, it goes in between the hot shoe on the camera body and the flas unit. BUT...you are not confined to that configuration. If you prefer to mount you flash unit on a bracket or use it hard-wired but off camera, the Safe-Synch has a standard PC (Prontur-Compour) sync socket. that enables synchronization by means of a standard flash cord. The 611 has the socket for such a cord.

Over-the- lens camera brackets, that are adjustable for horizontal and vertical camera orientations are prefered by many photograhers. The handle mount of you 611 already provides some height. If the lamp head is about 12 inches above the lens it gives you a little more vertical modeling and helps negate the distracting background shadows that oftentimes occur with standard "L" flash brackets. There are a number of theses bracket made my Stroboframe, Flash-Fram, Bower, Custom Bracket and others.

BebuLamar

I think what Leitz meant is that the safe sync in no way can make the 611 mounted any higher as the 611 can not be mounted on the hot shoe.

Leitz Loc: Solms

At least you and GoofyNewfie actually know what a handle-mount flash unit is!

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

The "hot shoe" adapters, and "safe" hot shoe voltage reduction adapter units all slide into the hot shoe (all the one's I've seen), and the strobe slides into a shoe on top of the adapter unit, thus it is sitting that much higher on top of the camera, a half inch or maybe 3/4". Hope that helps.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

I’ve used several:
Graflex 500 RG
Honeywell Strobonar 800
Braun RL-515 (my favorite, but it could be also mounted to a cold-shoe)
The Metz CT-60 was incredible.
And Sunpak...not really a fan.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Just some flash talk FYI:

Just for the newcomers to photography or the newcomers to old flash technology or flash in general, here's a little overview of older, newer and current electronic flash gear. Nowadays, Speedlight is the most popular flash units in general use in-on-camera handheld scenarios. There is, however, a little-known kinda subculture of flash gear that is in between speedlights and mono-lights and other heavier studio lighting equipment. Some call the strobes, power-pack units or portables.

The "heart" of all electronic flash unit is their capacitor(s). They store the energy and by means of the trigger circuitry release all of the power into the flash tube in a "jolt" rather than a flow. The capacitors are probably the largest and most space-consuming components in most flash gear. Bigger or more capacitors (called banks of capacitors) store and yield more power than smaller or single configurations. If the energy just flowed into the tube it would glow like a neon sign and not furnish us with the power and action-stopping flash durations we all know and love. Basically, the energy inputted to the flash tube is measured in watt.seconds.

Most of the popular speedlights house their capacitors in there comparatively small and compact bodies and there is just so much space to spare. As a result, most of the theses modern speedlight pack about 80-watt .seconds- adequate for many direct applications most modified and bounce techniques and for flash fill usages. For those who need more power in a handheld unit, there are a few currently manufactured units that are comprised of an on-camera flash head or lamp head and a shoulder carried portable battery operated power pack.
These units can accommodate more and larger capacitors or banks and the accompanying circuitry. These units can typically generate up to 200-watt .seconds and there are models that go up to as much as 400 to 800-watt .seconds.

Nowadays, the speedlight and the 2-piece portables are the popular selections. Some year ago, however, there was an in-between configuration- the handle mount type. In this design, the capacitors are housed in a cylindrical handle upon which the lamp head was mounted forming a moderately powerful one piece, perhaps more convenient unit. Certainly not a strange design for those who remember the yet older flash holders that were used with one-shot disposable flash bulbs where the handle housed 2 -4 3 C or D sized batteries or a 22.5 volt BC pack. with the bulb socket and reflector atop the handle.

Obviously, the more powerful flash units enable smaller apertures for more depth of field even with modified, indirect or bounce techniques. The can help in lighting larger areas when required and most of them can be powered down sufficiently when larger apertures are desired or for fill-in use in lower ambient light conditions.

Some of the older units may be somewhat compatible with current TTL programs in digital cameras. Many of them have built-in auto-flash thyristor systems which are self-standing in that the garter reflected light reading by means of their own onboard sensor - the model 611 is rather unique in that it has a hard-wired remote sensor that remains atop the camera and read light returning toward the lenses even if the hand and lamp head are employed in a bounced or modified mode and aimed elsewhere.

For those interest in acquiring a more powerful handle mount unit, there must be a plethora of them on the used market. They were made by just about every major flash manufacturer- Sunpack, Graflex SR, Honeywell (Hiland) Strobonar, Metz, Pentax, Nikon, and Rollei.

Portable 2-piece units with (shoulder carried) power pack units are currently made by Norman (up to 200 w.s), Quantum (Q-Flash) and Lumadyne whic has the most extensive line of various power supplies, and lamp head up and including 800-watt .seconds. Remember, these are not mono-lights or studio units, they are designed for handheld mobile use. There are many other makes still available on the used market such as Metz, Multiblitz Reporter, Refurbished Graflex Stroboflash, Ascorlight, Mightylight and more.

Watt.seconds are an electrical value that does not directly correlated to exposure.SOme flash gear is rated in ECPS or BCPS which stands for Beam or Effective Candle Power Seconds. These specifications are based upon the power and the reflector efficiency a provide a mathematical basis for formulating a guide number providing the units is used in direct lighting with its built-in or standard reflector- the way it comes out of the box. When reflectors are interchanged, modifiers are employed or certain modes are used in bare-bulb mode, all bet are off and exposure has to be meted or recalculated. All of these calculations apply in manual operation. Experience electronic flash users, regardless of these technicalities or nomenclature, still think of flash gear in terms of watt.seconds because the known from there experience how many of the popular units perform in practical circumstances at the rated power. I know, in my commercial work, a 2400 watt. the second system is not overkilling. Fro fashion a portrait work a few hundred w.s will do the job and for weddings and press assignments 100-2000w.s. is quite sufficient. A little Speedlight? Well, they suffice, especially when I am feeling lazy!

Seriously- the newer Speedlights when used in TTL systems are surprisingly efficient and accurate for their size, compactness and light weight. There are many "command systems" that enable single, bounce, modified and multiple electronic flash photography easy and convenient.

lucianj

I loved the Sunpak 611. When I was working for the USAF my camera was a D200. I used the Sunpak 611 routinely without any problems using the PC cord and socket. My SSgt would use a Sunpak 611 on her D300.

Brian Hartnell Loc: Marinette WI

I have used many a powerpack style electronic flash but my favorite workhorse was the Metz CT-60's for sheer portability and power with a huge range of f/stop. Used these units with medium format, 35mm and digital SLR's for over 20 years. Once I retired I sold them off to someone who had the need for the type of power these produce. They worked well in all of the industrial location shoots I had to do in hazardous sites where powerful flashes were needed to illuminate dark locations.They also served me well with my portrait and wedding assignments where their flexibility to bounce light worked real well to soften the lighting. Was a big fan of powerpack lights when I was shooting assignments. Now I use speed lights for portability since I do not need that sheer power.

User ID

Not with a 611 or any similar flash.

You can look that up.

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