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Auto ISO
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Jan 30, 2019 08:35:03   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
I use it indoors with dim light, like in a museum. Turns my DSLR into a smartphone. 😜😜. But seriously, I couldn’t figure out why my Nikon wasn’t doing as well as my daughter's smartphone in a museum until I switched to auto-ISO. That’s what smartphones use.

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Jan 30, 2019 08:40:11   #
billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM
 
I use auto ISO for lighted sporting events. I want the shutter speed and aperture set in manual and with changing low light conditions auto ISO gives me flexibility to not worry about exposure.

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Jan 30, 2019 08:54:15   #
peterg Loc: Santa Rosa, CA
 
Mac wrote:
I only use Auto ISO when I am in Manual Exposure and have set the the Aperture and Shutter Speed to specific settings I want for the picture, and there is changing lighting conditions.
Agree. For wildlife especially BIF. Gives me complete control. Make minor adjustments with exposure compensation. Example: Dark bird with a light sky.

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Jan 30, 2019 08:55:02   #
tradio Loc: Oxford, Ohio
 
I never use it.

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Jan 30, 2019 09:12:11   #
lamontcranston
 
gessman wrote:
If your camera delivers as expected on the assumed promise that it will always pick the lowest ISO given the other settings you've selected, more especially if you are shooting moving subjects, there's very seldom much reason, short of shooting for a special effects shot, to not use auto ISO because in good light it will pick the best/lowest ISO just as you would in conjunction with your other settings and in bad light it will pick what it needs to way before you can in order to let you walk away with shots you wouldn't have gotten otherwise even if it requires that you apply a little noise reduction/removal software. When shooting still shots where you only want base iso used, and may even be shooting in "bulb," auto ISO certainly could serve up some undesirable results.
If your camera delivers as expected on the assumed... (show quote)


I can't add anything to gessman's comments. I agree with him completely on this topic.

His final comment on the subject made me spit my coffee all over my laptop. Thanks for the laugh.

"I was around about twenty years before Ansel moved on and I don't recall there being anywhere near the fuss that's made about him now. Seems like he was just another goober running around with a big camera."

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Jan 30, 2019 09:19:40   #
BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD
 
I use it when the weather condition cause the light to be unstable and in some museums.

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Jan 30, 2019 09:31:38   #
BebuLamar
 
gessman wrote:
If your camera delivers as expected on the assumed promise that it will always pick the lowest ISO given the other settings you've selected, more especially if you are shooting moving subjects, there's very seldom much reason, short of shooting for a special effects shot, to not use auto ISO because in good light it will pick the best/lowest ISO just as you would in conjunction with your other settings and in bad light it will pick what it needs to way before you can in order to let you walk away with shots you wouldn't have gotten otherwise even if it requires that you apply a little noise reduction/removal software. When shooting still shots where you only want base iso used, and may even be shooting in "bulb," auto ISO certainly could serve up some undesirable results.

There's six kinds of people that I can think of offhand who don't/won't use auto ISO:

1) those who don't know about it,
2) those who don't understand how it works and its benefits,
3) those who never shoot anything but still subjects and mostly in good light,
4) those who like to shoot in early and late daylight but either shoot timed exposures and otherwise
won't start shooting 'til they can apply some variation of "Sunny 16,"
5) those who like to miss a lot of action shots due to the inability to rapidly adjust ISO on demand in
insufficient light fiddling with a special function button or users whose ISO setting is inconveniently
buried in a complex menu,
6) those who like to start shooting much later than others in the morning or have to put their camera
away well ahead of others in the evening because the light isn't "perfect," just as it used to be when
that person had 50 or 100asa film loaded and couldn't get a decent shot due to insufficient light -
those who've "by god, been doing it that way for fifty years" and ain't about to change regardless of
innovations that come along that allows them to overcome those deficiencies of fifty years ago -
those who, "if Ansel wouldn't do it, by god, neither will I."

Admittedly, some have higher standards than others, especially those who do it for "hire" who have to please customers. Those folks get special dispensation from my list above. By the way, I was around about twenty years before Ansel moved on and I don't recall there being anywhere near the fuss that's made about him now. Seems like he was just another goober running around with a big camera.
If your camera delivers as expected on the assumed... (show quote)


I use Auto ISO in A mode. I have the ISO range set at 100 to 12800. The camera follows a strict rule so I know exactly what it would do. I generally use f/8 (f5.6 if the light is low). In good light it would use ISO 100 and whatever shutter speed needed for the correct exposure. As the light gets dimmer it would drop the shutter speed down to 1/focal length (This is default but I can change this limit up or down. I am thinking of changing it up a bit as I don't seem to hold the camera steady enough at 1/focal length). When the light gets dimmer still it would keep the shutter at this value and starts to increase the ISO. It works well for me because I generally do not shoot fast moving object and the shutter speed only needs to be fast enough to prevent hand shake. Now that works if the meter would indicate the correct exposure but of course there are times it doesn't. In this case I would switch the camera to M and the Auto ISO off.

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Jan 30, 2019 09:31:44   #
chrisg-optical Loc: New York, NY
 
will47 wrote:
When are good times to consider using Auto ISO. I use a 7D Mark ll and mainly do landscapes, animals, birds, and I sometimes try BIF. Thanks.


I've experimented quite a bit with M mode and AutoISO for shooting BIF and posing birds (which is not true manual of course)...I would say it works best if you need a specific f# and shutter, and/or if the lighting changes greatly during your shooting session (partly cloudy skies or changing backgrounds)...but like auto-anything exposure control, the meter will get fooled at times with high contrast subjects/backgrounds...so long as the highlights don't get clipped, you can recover from a pretty wide latitude, especially in RAW/post. I've also experimented with M/AutoISO with -0.7 comp....that seemed to work well for me since I shoot RAW mainly.

For landscapes best to use fixed and low-as-possible ISO for the scene at hand in A mode (or S/M mode if you're trying to blur a waterfall, e.g.).

However, even with birds/BIF/nature and most other subjects I am leaning back towards a fixed ISO in all of the modes A/S/M as appropriate. I don't use P as that provides the least control especially in AutoISO. With animals you have to balance shutter and aperture - fast enough for the capture but with enough DOF depending on distance and FL....so if the lighting is not changing rapidly fixed ISO I think is best in M mode...pre-meter the nearby light tones (white preferably,in spot mode) and comp +1.3. Find the lowest ISO that gets you "in the ballpark" if the settings are not suitable. With a greyish midtone test subject don't comp 0.0.

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Jan 30, 2019 09:41:09   #
davidb1879
 
Re: Will47, auto ISO. One of my cameras, the panasonic lumix FZ300 has a 1/2 inch sensor which leads to noise. Therefore I keep ISO at the lowest level -200- even though it may require a slow shutter speed and a tripod. Davidb1879.

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Jan 30, 2019 09:52:16   #
BebuLamar
 
davidb1879 wrote:
Re: Will47, auto ISO. One of my cameras, the panasonic lumix FZ300 has a 1/2 inch sensor which leads to noise. Therefore I keep ISO at the lowest level -200- even though it may require a slow shutter speed and a tripod. Davidb1879.


Wouldn't have any more noise than any other modes. The ISO goes up as the light comes down and in any modes the choice is noise or no picture.

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Jan 30, 2019 09:54:11   #
boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
 
My usual setting is shutter priority to control camera shake. I set ISO as needed to get the best F-Stop for the situation. That's just me. As my 7D (original) is noisy at over 1000 ISO I like to keep it at 400 or below. But again, that's just the way I do it

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Jan 30, 2019 09:56:23   #
pahtspix
 
Unless I have a different task to photograph such as "macro" with my Nikkor 105mm 2.8, I use AUTO ISO with my Nikon D500 in manual mode virtually 99% of the time when shooting nature, especially with my Tamron 150-600mm. I've been doing this now for over 2 years!

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Jan 30, 2019 09:59:17   #
Kozan Loc: Trenton Tennessee
 
will47 wrote:
When are good times to consider using Auto ISO. I use a 7D Mark ll and mainly do landscapes, animals, birds, and I sometimes try BIF. Thanks.


For sports or anything where the light is changing, it's essential. The keeper rate really goes up when using Auto ISO. With landscape photography where you have time to look at the Histogram, you can set the ISO manual. Otherwise, use Auto ISO, even on Manual.

To answer the question, whenever the light is changing rapidly from shot to shot.

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Jan 30, 2019 09:59:42   #
gessman Loc: Colorado
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
After pondering what it means to the future of UHH that an x-ray of a dental implant screw made it into one of the coveted Photo Gallery Daily Digest slots, your treatise clarified with humor and insight. Many thanks, gessman!


My pleasure, ma'am but Yikes and WOW. How'd that make it into the Photo Gallery. I can't imagine.
Glad, if you got a chuckle. Reading that dental thread, it was refreshing to learn that some of our resident experts on all matters photographic are also experts on dentistry and dentures even though they have never worn any. Reminds me of that lady in the Clear Choice commercial who knew that "dentures wouldn't be right for me because I'm too active." Only thing I could figure is that dentures would, sooner or later when the swelling goes down, be falling out of her mouth but only because it is never shut. I'm pleased to have served up some perceivable jest for a change. I often try but it mostly misses, evidently. I figured I'd get a fresh load of tar and feathers out of the deal for attacking the photo "grail." I probably should just be "strung up."

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Jan 30, 2019 10:24:55   #
the f/stops here Loc: New Mexico
 
I use the 7DmkII in manual exposure mode most of the time. That allows me to select the aperture and shutter speed for the situation I’m about to capture. I start with the ISO in auto to establish what the ISO should
I set at. After looking at my histogram, I can either set my ISO to a specific number or leave it in auto and use exposure compensation to get me to the exposure I want. Canon charges you plenty for a great camera body that includes a terrific exposure meter. Let the camera be happy by doing something it was designed
to do like determine the correct exposure by selecting the best ISO.

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