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Advice on focusing rail
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Jan 9, 2019 19:43:01   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
I have a photography challenge that requires a focusing rail for focus stacking (which I’ve never tried before). It’s an industrial product shoot of an object that is 18” long and ~ 1/4” x 1/4” H & W. If I shoot it at right angles to the long side, I’ll end up with a 100x4000 image, so I intend to photograph it at an angle with a macro lens which will have a very short DOF at this distance. So, my plan is to use a focusing rail, take multiple shots and focus stack. I see focusing rails ranging in price from $40 to $600. This is a one-time application, and the customer is paying for the rail, so my question is: what’s a cost-effective rail of decent quality? ($600 is out of the question). Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Jan 9, 2019 19:49:30   #
BassmanBruce Loc: Middle of the Mitten
 
My solution to this was ebay and search for an Olympus or Minolta focusing rail. I got a Minolta for $60.00ish and it came with an auto bellows that I’m really getting to like.

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Jan 9, 2019 19:55:09   #
rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA
 
TriX wrote:
I have a photography challenge that requires a focusing rail for focus stacking (which I’ve never tried before). It’s an industrial product shoot of an object that is 18” long and ~ 1/4” x 1/4” H & W. If I shoot it at right angles to the long side, I’ll end up with a 100x4000 image, so I intend to photograph it at an angle with a macro lens which will have a very short DOF at this distance. So, my plan is to use a focusing rail, take multiple shots and focus stack. I see focusing rails ranging in price from $40 to $600. This is a one-time application, and the customer is paying for the rail, so my question is: what’s a cost-effective rail of decent quality? ($600 is out of the question). Thanks in advance for any advice.
I have a photography challenge that requires a foc... (show quote)


You can use a rail, but you can also do it manually. This slanted lens video is about a time lapse, but he does rack the focus for multiple images.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdS6HO1iAv0

One of these videos will give you the information you need:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=macro+focus+stacking+

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Jan 9, 2019 20:20:09   #
sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri
 
TriX, I shoot macro nearly everyday and I enjoy being out in the field hunting for insects. During the winter I shoot macro indoors with staged subjects.

Here's an excellent focus rail that I use and highly recommend. It is highly accurate and finely machined and it is on-par with those twice the price. It's a Leofoto MP 150. Leofoto makes many quality photo accessories. What's very good about it is that it has an Arca Swiss base so it will fit directly on most popular tripods. This is important for it keeps the center of gravity low and centered on the tripod. Any focus rail that sits up any distance will have a tendency to wobble and cause blur.

https://www.amazon.com/Leofoto-MP-150-Standard-Macro-Holder/dp/B07H4GCLW2/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1547082004&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=lefoto+macro+rail

If you search you will find them starting at $85.00.

Here's something to think about when doing 'focus stacking'. A macro lens has a very shallow depth of field which means that if you want pinpoint sharpness from end to end you will need to creep your way along. I do this by imagining that the crank on the rail is the face of a clock so one full turn is twelve increments.

Tonight I shot a cricket that I placed on a twig. The lens traveled 18 mm and it took 320 shots to do it just to give you an idea of what may be in store for you. If you are doing a photo session of a product, you may do well with a prime lens and an extension tube for you may not need a full 1:1 ratio or greater (my cricket was shot at 2:1).

Shoot in the Mirror Up mode to avoid mirror slap (unless you have a mirrorless camera with an electronic shutter). Use a shutter release or set your timer to delay a few seconds after you press it to let any vibrations settle down.

In addition to the focus rail you will need software capable of focus stacking to align and process all of the images into one image.

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Jan 9, 2019 21:09:52   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
TriX wrote:
I have a photography challenge that requires a focusing rail for focus stacking (which I’ve never tried before). It’s an industrial product shoot of an object that is 18” long and ~ 1/4” x 1/4” H & W. If I shoot it at right angles to the long side, I’ll end up with a 100x4000 image, so I intend to photograph it at an angle with a macro lens which will have a very short DOF at this distance. So, my plan is to use a focusing rail, take multiple shots and focus stack. I see focusing rails ranging in price from $40 to $600. This is a one-time application, and the customer is paying for the rail, so my question is: what’s a cost-effective rail of decent quality? ($600 is out of the question). Thanks in advance for any advice.
I have a photography challenge that requires a foc... (show quote)


This company has an assortment of rails in different sizes and adjustment methods - they aren't cheap, but it's hard to beat his quality.

http://www.hejnarphotostore.com/category-s/115.htm

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Jan 9, 2019 23:17:11   #
User ID
 
`

Have you considered a lens tilt adapter ?

For stacking via a rail, even at an angle to
the subject, for your 18 inch subject you'll
need about a foot of rail travel, and about
a zillion stacked exposures. Rotsa ruck.

.

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Jan 10, 2019 07:12:13   #
rdubreuil Loc: Dummer, NH USA
 
TriX wrote:
I have a photography challenge that requires a focusing rail for focus stacking (which I’ve never tried before). It’s an industrial product shoot of an object that is 18” long and ~ 1/4” x 1/4” H & W. If I shoot it at right angles to the long side, I’ll end up with a 100x4000 image, so I intend to photograph it at an angle with a macro lens which will have a very short DOF at this distance. So, my plan is to use a focusing rail, take multiple shots and focus stack. I see focusing rails ranging in price from $40 to $600. This is a one-time application, and the customer is paying for the rail, so my question is: what’s a cost-effective rail of decent quality? ($600 is out of the question). Thanks in advance for any advice.
I have a photography challenge that requires a foc... (show quote)


Trix,

Another option to using a rail you may want to consider is Heliconsoft's FB tube, about $200. It you have long travel issues the change in perspective can be an issue when stacking the images versus changing the focal point in each successive image, in other words moving the focal point rather than the camera and lens. As an example that's how the automated mode in the D850 works for focus stacking images.

https://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-focus/

Which ever way you go, good luck and I hope it turns out well.

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Jan 10, 2019 07:25:14   #
olsonsview
 
Just a few questions: What is going to happen to perspective when you travel along a rail with camera and keep shooting a macro lens at the same ratio? Seems like you will end up with far less than a realistic interpretation of what the product looks like, and the only focus rails that long are those maybe made for studio or video work? . Might be better to get further back and use a longer lens, frame the subject with the angle that pleases you, and while shooting the subject, without moving the camera at all, just adjust the focus so you can get the whole length of the object in focus. Only need to stack a handful of shots that way if a smaller F stop is used. If there is still too much negative space in the image why not shoot several of these same products together so as to better fill the frame? Or just fill the frame at a pleasing diagonal? Just some ideas for thought. In the old studio days one would use a view camera change the plane of focus so that you need only take one shot and the entire face of the product will stay in focus while still retaining perspective. Good luck.

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Jan 10, 2019 07:28:48   #
DaveC Loc: Illinois
 
You might consider renting a tilt/shift lens. Might even be able to do it with one shot.

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Jan 10, 2019 07:37:22   #
cactuspic Loc: Dallas, TX
 
If you go Zerenesystems.com there is a tutorial entitled “Is it better to use a focus rail or the ring on my lens?” Whether It is better to turn the knob on the rail or turn the ring on the lens depends on the magnification. In your case, it depends upon what diagonal you shoot your subject at. I find that at magnifications of 1:1 or less I use the lens ring to get the best results. The optics I use for magnifications greater than 1:1 do not have a focus ring and therefore I use a focusing rail. In the tutorial, I think the magnification where using a focus rail yields less distortion is about 1.5:1. But in my experience, the difference in performance at the magnifications greater than life size but less than 1.5 to1 is marginal.

Although it can be intimidating to turn the focus ring on the camera, it just takes a little practice. If you shoot your product shot in a tethered mode, it is easy to automate focus if you shoot Canon or Nikon. There are tutorials ar the Zerene site on how to advance the focus while tethered. I also believe that Helicon has a free program that will incrementally advance the focus while tethered. The advantage of shooting tethered is that you don’t have to physically touch the rail or the lens ring and therefore your risk of movement is minimized. It also avoids the cost of a focus rail.

These days, I shoot tethered by using CamRanger. If you happen to use it or similar devices, you will find it has a focus stacking mode that will automatically advance the focus and snap the picture.

I suspect you will be be shooting at a magnification of less than 1 to 1 and therefore would be best served turning the focus ring...either manually or by shooting tethered. It will yield the best result and you won’ Have to buy a precision rail.

Edit
One additional thought. Shoot in live view. In many models, it will lock your mirror up to avoid camera shake. In many models, it will also start your exposure by electronically starting the exposure, thereby avoiding the internal movement caused by a physically moving shutter.

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Jan 10, 2019 08:05:23   #
cactuspic Loc: Dallas, TX
 
olsonsview wrote:
Just a few questions: What is going to happen to perspective when you travel along a rail with camera and keep shooting a macro lens at the same ratio? Seems like you will end up with far less than a realistic interpretation of what the product looks like, and the only focus rails that long are those maybe made for studio or video work? . Might be better to get further back and use a longer lens, frame the subject with the angle that pleases you, and while shooting the subject, without moving the camera at all, just adjust the focus so you can get the whole length of the object in focus. Only need to stack a handful of shots that way if a smaller F stop is used. If there is still too much negative space in the image why not shoot several of these same products together so as to better fill the frame? Or just fill the frame at a pleasing diagonal? Just some ideas for thought. In the old studio days one would use a view camera change the plane of focus so that you need only take one shot and the entire face of the product will stay in focus while still retaining perspective. Good luck.
Just a few questions: What is going to happen to p... (show quote)


The software can usually account for the changes is size of the image. The perspective changes are another matter. There is a tutorial at zerenesystems.com that shows this effect. Particularly if you choose a pleasing diagonal as you suggest, this should be an unchallenging stack.

Unlike the old days when I would shift the plane of focus with my Sinar, focus stacking actually increases the depth of field. It is an amazing capability. If the ultimate in accuracy is required, focus stacking using a bellows and changing the focus by moving the back standard will yield images taken with the same lens position with only the point of focus changing.

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Jan 10, 2019 09:18:05   #
fetzler Loc: North West PA
 
You may be able to solve your problem with a tilt shift lens (rental would be appropriate). If you have a Nikon or Cannon, Helicon software might work. The software will adjust focus using the lens focus motor. With very small objects (requiring >1.5X magnification a rail works well. For less than 1 X using the lens focus motor works better.

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Jan 10, 2019 10:28:58   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
Thank you everyone for the excellent suggestions. I’m going to set up later today with a light tent and my Camranger for tethered operation and try several different methods. I wish The charges would justify a T/S lens (as I’ve wanted one for some time), but I beieive I can rent one locally if I pursue that method. Again, many excellent ideas, and I appreciate all of them.

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Jan 10, 2019 10:36:18   #
cactuspic Loc: Dallas, TX
 
Trix, when you use the CamRanger, use the medium sized step for focus stacking. I think you will be pleased. Both Zerene and Helicon have free evaluative periods for running their software. Both are fine programs. I prefer Zerene, but many would choose Helicon

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Jan 10, 2019 11:19:32   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
cactuspic wrote:
Trix, when you use the CamRanger, use the medium sized step for focus stacking. I think you will be pleased. Both Zerene and Helicon have free evaluative periods for running their software. Both are fine programs. I prefer Zerene, but many would choose Helicon


Thank you.

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