Levi M.

I've asked this three times in the seperate threads but it seems that people think I ask about the sharpness of the entire image instead of what's in focus, which is what I'm concerned about. I use a Nikon D5600 (APSC) and a Tamron 90mm Macro. The VC model. I want to be about to take macro shots handheld, which must be possible, but I haven't been able to get satisfying results.

I've a great passion for macro photography and I have a great appreciation for the small and fine details that can be found in things but I can't capture them. My subjects often aren't as sharp as they could be when in focus and I don't know how to correct that and get the details in things to show how beautiful they are. They are always fuzzy or grainy even when in focus. My hands aren't terribly shaky and VC is on. I'm. Not sure what else I can do to take better handheld macro shots.

Here are some examples of what I'm talking about. Subjects with good texture but the outcome is grainy or fuzzy even though they are in focus. I also feel as if there isn't enough quality in the image to crop to get "closer" to the details.

1/50, F5.6, ISO-100

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1/60, F5.6, ISO-100

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1/100, F5.6, ISO-100

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I'm aware that the first three are very dark. They are unedited. This one is edited, used a flash, yet still seems a bit fuzzy in the focused areas. Close but not quite what it could be. 1s, F13, ISO-100

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robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

Hand held macro only produces ultra sharp/high IQ when fast shutter speeds are used, none of your samples are anywhere near fast enough. At macro magnafication and distances even minute camera movement can ruin the IQ. For handheld macro with a 90 mm lenses I would say (if your hand holding is very steady) at least 1/200 or 1/250 if not higher. So lots of light and fast shutter speed or high speed sync flash. Those subjects you posted I would only do from a tripod but might try high speed sync with a SS of around 1/500 or so if hand held.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Turn off the VR as it isn't effective at true macro distances. Nor is AF... Look at the "True Macro" section here on UHH and emulate the steps we use....All of my macro is handheld... If it's not sharp, it's operator error...

Levi M.

Can you explain why VR is ineffective with true-macro, please? It makes sense to me to have some vibration reduction when shooting at 1:1 or more. What is the downside?

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

I’ll have to find links tomorrow as I’m turning in for the night. If you bought the lens new, the instructions that came with the lens would likely have noted it as well. If you shoot something a half life size it should be OK. I have 8 different macro lenses and none have vibration reduction. I use supplemental lighting and a flash has such a short duration that it stops all motion, be it my own or the subjects. On top of that, it allows one to stop down the lens allowing for increased depth of field (which is pitifully small as it is)

tinusbum Loc: east texas

i totally agree with Scott,i always shoot handheld.my setting are f9 to f11 ss 250 iso 400 always with a flash and diffuser

Grahame Loc: Fiji

With respect to the fourth image where you used flash with a Manual exposure of 0.8 sec, f/13, ISO 100, there may have been enough ambient light with that shutter speed to affect the sharpness of the image. When using flash and hand holding I always use my max sync speed.

With respect to the first three, as already mentioned the shutter speed was way too low for hand holding.

Levi M.

I forgot to add that the last image was taken with a tripod, but I wanted to use it as an example of image quality that I'm aiming more towards vs the other examples. But better eventually, of course.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

The responses remain consistent to the same question ....
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-563409-1.html
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-563394-1.html

olsonsview

Why do you keep asking the same thing? Do the testing that you were suggested to do last week and learn the correct and accurate answers! The very first picture you posted here looks fine for shooting at F5.6 if you are in the true macro range. Was it shot at 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, . . . ? Anywhere near the closest focus distance with that lens and the F stop you chose would indicate that your lens is quite sharp because the rounded subject shows you that you have very limited depth of field. That is the world of macro!!!! Always indicate the magnification ratio on a macro image, That macro ratio is as important as all the specs you posted. Us macro shooters set the lens on manual focus, VR off, and preset the magnification ratio. Move the whole camera rig back and forth to focus precisely, usually leaving the focus ring alone, already set for the proper ratio we chose! Try using VR on and off on the same subject and you will have the answer of why we turn it off.

fotobyferg

OK, maybe dumb question here:

If VC is better not used with macro, why do the lenses have it?

In my case, I also use my 90mm Tamron for taking headshots/portraits for my son’s rugby team website....but what’s the downside of using VC handheld for macro?

I do turn it off if shooting on a tripod.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Lenses have it as it is useful when the lens is used for "close up" or other non-macro images. It takes several milliseconds for the vibration control to settle down and if your subject is mobile, it could have moved......

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

A link for some of you...

https://www.outdoorphotographer.com/photography-gear/lenses/macro-lens-guide/#

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

A macro lens can also be used for portraits and other situations. That is where VC can begin to be useful.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

Not an expert by any means however I have spent a lot of time chasing insects through thickets and bogs.

The fellows here are giving you the same expert advice that they have shared with me at times which is; Keep the shutter speed set at least TWICE the lens focal length. Turn off VR control if you camera or lens has it. Shoot in the MANUAL MODE. Set the focus distance of the lens and use your body as you would a zoom to achieve a sharp focus. Shoot a series of shots for it increases your chances of getting a good one. When hand-held, use a stick (something like a pool cue) to help steady your hand and the camera. Pay attention to the f-stop and the magnification of the lens. For example a lens set at 5-times magnification and f-16 is equivalent to f-96 so adequate lighting and diffraction become something to contend with.

Enjoy your passion.