rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

Software calibration isn't going to be good enough, particularly if you begin printing images. You have to use something like Spyder Pro or ColorMunki.

katastrofa Loc: London, UK

Would this be enough: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Datacolor-Spyder-3-Pro-Monitor-Calibration/292471936679

photocat Loc: Atlanta, Ga

No one has mentioned sharpening for paper types

Just another important step in theprocess

photocat Loc: Atlanta, Ga

No one has mentioned sharpening for paper types

Just another important step in theprocess

katastrofa Loc: London, UK

That's also a complete novelty for me :)

Pandylou Loc: The Levant

"I refuse to believe there are no professional print shops in the UK."

I have used DSCL for many years and have been most happy with everything
they have printed for me ..........

http://dscolourlabs.co.uk

katastrofa Loc: London, UK

Thanks!

Largobob

I'm not familiar with the tool you used (calibrize), but it appears to be a software product. From my experience, in order to calibrate a monitor, you should have a product that includes a sensor that measures the exact output of your monitor.....and uses algorithms (software) to adjust monitor output. Such calibration systems (Datacolor, Spyder, etc) are not terribly expensive but will help you get your prints to look more like what you saw on your monitor.

Skeletal

Hi all… been lurking for a while, but this is my first post.

In response to the OP: I live in the UK and the printers I use are proAM: http://www.proamimaging.com

They have a low price for the prints, but the postage is high, so better to save up your prints and make one big order.

A couple of other points that you should know about:
1. Make absolutely sure that your set your prints up to your chosen print supplier’s specifications e.g. print resolution (proAM is unusual that it requires 402 dpi) and colour profile. This can be confusing, and all suppliers will be different, so you must follow their instructions; you may have to download a new colour profile (proAM uses FujiDP2).
2. Colour profiling your monitor is essential. But a further problem is that what you see from the monitor is radiated light, but a print is reflected light. This has two effects: your print will be influenced by the hue from the lighting when you view it; and it will probably look darker than on the screen. Nothing you can do about the hue except look at it in daylight (and be aware of the issue), but set your monitor to a lower brightness than you probably normally use. No higher than around 120 candelas (you should be able to get a brightness reading from your monitor calibrator). I usually add a little brightness to mid tones for prints compared to screen. Don’t just increase overall brightness because highlights will burn out. I’ve only recently come across info that suggested that it’s best to slightly reduce the highlight level as prints reach the “burn out” point a little lower than a screen (I lost a bit of feather detail on a white bird).

If you aren’t that bothered about ultimate quality, a quick cheap job from Boots (UK high street shop) will be "OK". The stuff I’m on about takes it to the next level.

Good luck!

katastrofa Loc: London, UK

Thanks!

philz Loc: Rockaway Township NJ

I think you guys went off topic. I use a local Costco for my printing and it has some information available that may be suitable for your printing needs. I access the printer profile that goes into my Lightroom or On1 Raw print module which I use for soft proofing and printer/ink combination, both critical to the result as the print will not look like what is on your monitor otherwise. Then I resize depending upon the print size as follows, per their recommendation:

Costco's printing department for specific picture sizes. 300 ppi resolution

4 X 6 = 1212 x 1818
5 x 7 = 1515 x 2121
8 x10 = 2424 x 3080
8 x12 = 2424 x 3636
11x14 = 3838 x 6464
12x18 = 3636 x 5454
16x20 = 4848 x 6080
20x30 = 6080 x 9090

http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/printing/resolution/1_which_resolution_print... <http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/printing/resolution/1_which_resolution_print_size_viewing_distance.htm

Then I hope for the best. Basic takeaway is that the print will be darker than what is on the monitor so one must soft proof a version, edit accordingly, and send that copy to the printer.

philz Loc: Rockaway Township NJ

I think you guys went off topic. I use a local Costco for my printing and it has some information available that may be suitable for your printing needs. I access the printer profile that goes into my Lightroom or On1 Raw print module which I use for soft proofing and printer/ink combination, both critical to the result as the print will not look like what is on your monitor otherwise. Then I resize depending upon the print size as follows, per their recommendation:

Costco's printing department for specific picture sizes. 300 ppi resolution

4 X 6 = 1212 x 1818
5 x 7 = 1515 x 2121
8 x10 = 2424 x 3080
8 x12 = 2424 x 3636
11x14 = 3838 x 6464
12x18 = 3636 x 5454
16x20 = 4848 x 6080
20x30 = 6080 x 9090

Then I hope for the best. Basic takeaway is that the print will be darker than what is on the monitor so one must soft proof a version, edit accordingly, and send that copy to the printer.

Skeletal

Picking up on Philz’s post… I should have said that you do chose the profile from Lightroom (or whatever your photo editor happens to be) as you prepare to print, but if the required profile is not there, you’ll have to download it; the FujiDP2 profile was not included in mine when I started the quest of printing.
Also, the link is interesting. I look at prints around the 20 x 16 inch size from about 8 to 12 inches away. This, very roughly, gives a ppi around the 400 mark.
As ever, everyone’s requirements will be different.

katastrofa Loc: London, UK

What does it mean to "soft proof"? Print to PDF?

Skeletal

Soft proofing attempts to simulate, on your monitor, how the photo will look with your chosen printer/ printer profile/paper/ink combination.

As part of soft proofing in Lightroom (other editors may be different) you can also chose “Simulate Paper & Ink” which simulates the reduction in contrast caused by dull white paper and dark grey black ink. Your eyes adapt to the colour and brightness of the whitest object in your view, making the soft proof look dark and flat.

You can thus fiddle about with settings to try to get what you want for that specific setup without creating numerous test prints.

Theoretically! It’ll still looks a bit different from paper. Like all these things it’s “OK” and some people like to use them, others not so much.