Unhappy with photos from Alaska Cruise
Jun 13, 2016 11:01:48 #
Bobb42
Loc: Ohio
I was using the best resolution available with the camera so I don't think that was the problem.
Jun 13, 2016 11:03:28 #
Bobb42 wrote:
Just returned from a Cruise to Alaska. The trip was very nice but I am not happy with the pictures. The camera is a Canon T3i using mostly a Canon 55-250 lens. Most shots were in Program mode using IS. Speeds seemed to be fast enough for the focal length used but they were just not sharp. Most of the shots showed an f 7.1. Other than taking another Cruise (not likely) what might have I done differently?
Bobb42-- Here is a post-processed version of one of your photos. I opened it in PS camera raw filter, adjusted highlights and shadows, added clarity and some sharpening in all of about 2 minutes. The result does show improvement so your photos are salvageable. I do however, agree with many of the comments posted with suggestions about what you could have done better.
Jun 13, 2016 11:05:13 #
Bobb42 wrote:
About half thru the ship window and the others in the open.
Were the 'in the open' pix better than the 'through the window' pix?
Jun 13, 2016 11:07:17 #
Jun 13, 2016 11:21:47 #
Brian in Whitby
Loc: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
Bobb42 wrote:
Just returned from a Cruise to Alaska. The trip was very nice but I am not happy with the pictures. The camera is a Canon T3i using mostly a Canon 55-250 lens. Most shots were in Program mode using IS. Speeds seemed to be fast enough for the focal length used but they were just not sharp. Most of the shots showed an f 7.1. Other than taking another Cruise (not likely) what might have I done differently?
I had a similar camera/lens combination, a T2i, the 18 to 55mm andvthe 55 to 250 mm kit lenses. Tired changing lenses, I bought the Sigma 18 to 250 mm lens and noticed an immediate improvement innimsge sharpness. This is not an expensive lens and is kuch morevconvenient especially for travel. An added bonus is its near macro capabikities. In only gives 0.9 x while true macro requires a 1x minimum magnification.
Kit lenses at least for entry level cameras are cheap and not great in the sharpness department.
Jun 13, 2016 11:28:31 #
Bobb42
Loc: Ohio
I have the Sigma 18-250 lens also but it is heavy and difficult to use with one hand. It's nice on a tripod but on a ship, the tripod was not convenient.
Jun 13, 2016 11:42:12 #
I agree with JCam.
The problem, almost certainly, is the engine tremble inherent on most motor cruisers, although I would not rule out the advices given by other Hogs.
Do not forget that most digital photos require PP sharpening. Most pics on this site will have had PP sharpening - perhaps the most useful PP adjustment of all - so all is not lost!
The problem, almost certainly, is the engine tremble inherent on most motor cruisers, although I would not rule out the advices given by other Hogs.
Do not forget that most digital photos require PP sharpening. Most pics on this site will have had PP sharpening - perhaps the most useful PP adjustment of all - so all is not lost!
Jun 13, 2016 11:45:37 #
mwsilvers
Loc: Central New Jersey
Bobb42 wrote:
I have the Sigma 18-250 lens also but it is heavy and difficult to use with one hand. It's nice on a tripod but on a ship, the tripod was not convenient.
I think few of those responding have read the whole thread and realize you were shooting one handed on a moving boat. Not only does that mean you are unable to hold the camera rigidly, but depressing the shutter button while holding it in one hand will cause significant camera movement. As I said earlier, given the circumstances, your results are better than I would have expected. Had you indicated the disability with your hand in your initial post, I'm sure many of the responses would have been different.
Jun 13, 2016 11:50:46 #
Bobb42
Loc: Ohio
Thank you for the kind comments. One-hand operation is certainly a problem. Decent lenses are heavy and more difficult to hold. Next time we do a Cruise, I will let the wife do the shooting on the ship. She can hold the camera better and also has an artistic eye.
Jun 13, 2016 11:58:56 #
Mark7829
Loc: Calfornia
This is a self inflicted wound. Shooting auto mode is problematic. The camera will choose and average to get what it thinks the exposure is and often it is wrong. I see blown out highlights and dark shadows along with color cast and other focusing issues. the solution:
1. Take a photography class
2. Know your camera inside and out
3. Learn how to focus appropriately for large landscapes and that includes shooting at f/11 to 16 not 6.3. Avoid auto anything, shoot Aperture Priority or better yet, Manual.
4. Learn when to shoot, shooting at mid day is going to render blown out highlights and dark shadows. We can't blame the equipment for such choices.
5. Learn to use a monopod and/or tripod or hand/bracing techniques to steady your shots in a moving environment, using all tools such as IS/VR and much faster shutter speeds.
6. Learn to post process properly
1. Take a photography class
2. Know your camera inside and out
3. Learn how to focus appropriately for large landscapes and that includes shooting at f/11 to 16 not 6.3. Avoid auto anything, shoot Aperture Priority or better yet, Manual.
4. Learn when to shoot, shooting at mid day is going to render blown out highlights and dark shadows. We can't blame the equipment for such choices.
5. Learn to use a monopod and/or tripod or hand/bracing techniques to steady your shots in a moving environment, using all tools such as IS/VR and much faster shutter speeds.
6. Learn to post process properly
Jun 13, 2016 12:14:32 #
Look into mirrorless, like a Sony a6000/a6300, or the new Fuji. Both less weight than what you're using.
Jun 13, 2016 12:52:56 #
Bobb42 wrote:
Shutter speed 1/320
Focal length 250mm
f stop 6.3
Focal length 250mm
f stop 6.3
I believe the T3i has a 1.6 crop factor that you need to allow for too. At 250mm the adjusted shutter speed should be at least 1/400 sec.
Jun 13, 2016 12:56:04 #
I've been reading most if not all of the replys since my post, confusion, how impaired is your left arm? if you don't mind me asking, can you steady the camera but not focus? Are you really shooting as a one armed man? possible different solutions. careful selectioon of focus points and using auto focus may solve most of your problems, if you need I have seen advertised belt pod gizmos that would assist when shooting one handed, hope you can find a solution that works for you, Bob.
Jun 13, 2016 12:59:16 #
picturesofdogs wrote:
Look into mirrorless, like a Sony a6000/a6300, or the new Fuji. Both less weight than what you're using.
Micro 4/3 - Olympus or Panasonic - might well be an even better answer. No harm in looking!
Jun 13, 2016 13:23:44 #
Bobb42
Loc: Ohio
My left hand and arm are the result of a stroke. So the only usage I have is with my right hand and it is difficult at times.
I love my photography and after about 50 years, it is still fun. Only problem I have is, the more I learn, it seems like the less I know. Always learning but then new problems always seem to raise it's ugly head.
I love my photography and after about 50 years, it is still fun. Only problem I have is, the more I learn, it seems like the less I know. Always learning but then new problems always seem to raise it's ugly head.
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