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Confused? Long exposures not working out for me.
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Feb 15, 2015 17:40:21   #
SteveC_ Loc: Oklahoma
 
I have a question that hopefully some of you more advanced photographers can answer/help me out here. I have a Canon T1i and I have been trying to do long exposures on water falls to get that smooth flowing effect and it seems that all I get is white out photo's on anything over 1.5 second. I tried everything, even bracketing exposures on every setting I have but I still get white out effect on any exposure over 1.5 seconds. What am I doing wrong or am I not using the right settings? It's aggravating to spend the amount of time setting up on a tripod and hoping that I can get the shot that I trying for. The lens I'm using is a Canon 18-55mm macro.

Thank you

Steve

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Feb 15, 2015 17:51:15   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
Use neutral density filters and expose for the water. (the rest will be under exposed so try different settings.)

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Feb 15, 2015 17:58:35   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
Steve, yes, you need an ND. If the water blows out at the settings you use, put the camera on a tripod and shoot it as an HDR. One of the exposures needs to be for the water. Good luck. ;-)
SS

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Feb 15, 2015 18:04:25   #
minniev Loc: MIssissippi
 
SteveC_ wrote:
I have a question that hopefully some of you more advanced photographers can answer/help me out here. I have a Canon T1i and I have been trying to do long exposures on water falls to get that smooth flowing effect and it seems that all I get is white out photo's on anything over 1.5 second. I tried everything, even bracketing exposures on every setting I have but I still get white out effect on any exposure over 1.5 seconds. What am I doing wrong or am I not using the right settings? It's aggravating to spend the amount of time setting up on a tripod and hoping that I can get the shot that I trying for. The lens I'm using is a Canon 18-55mm macro.

Thank you

Steve
I have a question that hopefully some of you more ... (show quote)


Neutral density filters are often needed especially in bright light. It is easier to shoot this type of scene in subdued lighting- early or late in day, shaded areas, overcast skies. Different waterfalls need different settings to achieve milky blur. Sometimes 1/10'of a second does the trick, sometimes 2 seconds. Depends on rate/amount of flow and other stuff. Requires lots of checking shot on LCD and histogram and reshooting till you get used to it. I always shoot them on full manual so I control everything and decide what compromises to make. Be sure you don't have auto ISO enabled, that will sabotage everything you do, base ISO is best.

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Feb 15, 2015 18:16:21   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
minniev wrote:

Requires lots of checking shot on LCD and histogram and reshooting till you get used to it.


Minnie, could you please pass me one of those bananas?! Please?! :lol: :lol:
SS

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Feb 15, 2015 18:24:45   #
BobR Loc: Norwalk CT USA
 
Use the lowest ISO setting and stop way down- f22 or more depending on the lens. If that doesnt do it you will need as others have mentioned an ND filter. Ive gotten away without one but only on fairly dark overcast day. Bob

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Feb 15, 2015 18:29:46   #
minniev Loc: MIssissippi
 
SharpShooter wrote:
Minnie, could you please pass me one of those bananas?! Please?! :lol: :lol:
SS


Actually, SS, you can have ALL the bananas to yourself or share them with the OP who may want some -Since I shoot m4/3 I don't have to chimp anymore, I see the shot I'm gonna take and it's histogram in my cool EVF before I press that little button! Simplified old Min's life a bunch :D

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Feb 15, 2015 18:51:07   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
minniev wrote:
Actually, SS, you can have ALL the bananas to yourself or share them with the OP who may want some -Since I shoot m4/3 I don't have to chimp anymore, I see the shot I'm gonna take and it's histogram in my cool EVF before I press that little button! Simplified old Min's life a bunch :D


Minnie, I'm a Master Chimper(MC)!!
I can chimp and shoot so fast...., I can chimp at 10fps!! People are so mesmerized as they watch me chimp, before they can recover I just walk on over a steal their bananas!!
Never actually have to bring my own.
LOVE bananas. When I shoot film, I actually have withdrawals!! :lol: :lol:
SS

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Feb 15, 2015 19:18:17   #
JPL
 
Like they say, low ISO, high aperture number, ND filter or take the picture on dark overcast day.
All this is valid advice and most people who do this kind of shots use ND filter to reduce light to the camera sensor.

One more thing you could try is to take the shot in the evening when it is getting darker outside or early morning while there is still not much light.

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Feb 15, 2015 22:02:34   #
Whuff Loc: Marshalltown, Iowa
 
I've never done that kind of photo before and I've never used an ND filter so what is the right one to use in most situations? Or is it best to have a variety in order to make sure you use the correct one for each situation? As I understand it they come in several densities.

Walt

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Feb 15, 2015 22:24:38   #
noel Loc: Virginia
 
Whuff wrote:
I've never done that kind of photo before and I've never used an ND filter so what is the right one to use in most situations? Or is it best to have a variety in order to make sure you use the correct one for each situation? As I understand it they come in several densities.

Walt

there is a variable ND filter,so you don't carry a bunch.Also a good tripod, late evening or early dawn or a dark overcast day, f-22 and vary the shutter speed. the water should be moving vigorously to obtain the effect you wanted..

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Feb 15, 2015 23:21:44   #
Whuff Loc: Marshalltown, Iowa
 
noel wrote:
there is a variable ND filter,so you don't carry a bunch.Also a good tripod, late evening or early dawn or a dark overcast day, f-22 and vary the shutter speed. the water should be moving vigorously to obtain the effect you wanted..


Thank you for the info

Walt

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Feb 15, 2015 23:28:29   #
TheDman Loc: USA
 
I almost never use an nd filter for water. I like shutter speeds in the .5 to 1 second range. Smooth but still some definition.

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Feb 16, 2015 05:03:32   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
SteveC_ wrote:
I have a question that hopefully some of you more advanced photographers can answer/help me out here. I have a Canon T1i and I have been trying to do long exposures on water falls to get that smooth flowing effect and it seems that all I get is white out photo's on anything over 1.5 second. I tried everything, even bracketing exposures on every setting I have but I still get white out effect on any exposure over 1.5 seconds. What am I doing wrong or am I not using the right settings? It's aggravating to spend the amount of time setting up on a tripod and hoping that I can get the shot that I trying for. The lens I'm using is a Canon 18-55mm macro.

Thank you

Steve
I have a question that hopefully some of you more ... (show quote)


Steve, you can't just change your exposure without changing anything else, and still expect the image to be exposed correctly.

You should be using the camera's lowest ISO, and preferably an Fstop no smaller than F11 - since diffraction will rob sharpness as you make the aperture smaller. No matter what, the exposure settings must be correct.

It sounds as if you have hit the limits of your camera body You can't shoot at a low enough ISO to allow a slower (longer) exposure time. A neutral density filter will block out additional light and provide more flexibility with ISO, and still give you a slow enough shutter speed to get the effect you are after.

I use two ND filters - a 400 and a 32. In dark light, the 32 which cuts light by 5 stops is great. But in bright daylight, even the 400, which lowers your light by a little over 8 fstops, sometimes comes up short. I sometimes put them both on a lens to get the desired effect. Depending on how close you are to the water, you will need anywhere from 6 secs (for a far distance), to 1 sec if you are very close.

Set your camera to spot meter, and let the camera measure your water. Dial in +1 to +2 exposure compensation - and you should be good to go. The water should be bright, but so much that you overexpose it. The rest of the image will be dark, but if you shoot raw (and this is an excellent situation for this) you will have more flexibility raising the darker levels in the image without losing the highlight areas.

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Feb 16, 2015 07:14:54   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
SteveC_ wrote:
I have a question that hopefully some of you more advanced photographers can answer/help me out here. I have a Canon T1i and I have been trying to do long exposures on water falls to get that smooth flowing effect and it seems that all I get is white out photo's on anything over 1.5 second. I tried everything, even bracketing exposures on every setting I have but I still get white out effect on any exposure over 1.5 seconds. What am I doing wrong or am I not using the right settings? It's aggravating to spend the amount of time setting up on a tripod and hoping that I can get the shot that I trying for. The lens I'm using is a Canon 18-55mm macro.

Thank you

Steve
I have a question that hopefully some of you more ... (show quote)

Here's some info on ND filters.

http://digital-photography-school.com/step-by-step-guide-to-long-exposure-photography/
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/10-Stop-Neutral-Density-Filter.aspx

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