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Is Vibration Reduction Important at Short Focal Lengths?
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Sep 3, 2014 10:10:17   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
A couple of other things people often forget about VR.

1. On cameras where it is in the lens (most), it affects the image you see in the viewfinder as well. It is like buying image stabilized binoculars. It really helps. More so for longer lenses, of course.

2. MT shooter notes that with some lenses (and I suppose cameras) it can cause the camera to take longer to focus.

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Sep 3, 2014 10:20:47   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
Mark7829 wrote:
Shoot as least as fast or faster than the vocal length. At 200 mm = 1/200 of a second, etc., handheld....


Unless using that 200mm lens on a crop sensor camera... in which case you need 1.5X, 1.6X or whatever faster shutter speed. 1/300 to 1/320 with Nikon and Canon.

Practice and certain handheld shooting techniques might allow some people to use slower than the inverse rules suggests.

On a tripod, it depends on the lens. Check with the manufacturer. Some must have stabilization turned off when locked down solidly on a tripod, or they can go into sort of a feedback loop that creates movement when there is none present. In my kit, I have a couple 28-135 lenses and a 300/4 that have this type of stabilization. These are normally handheld lenses for me anyway, so I've rarely had to turn it off.

Other lenses self-detect and turn off stabilization themselves automatically if and when they are locked down on a tripod (i.e., there is no movement), so there is no need to manually turn it off unless you just want to be sure. In my own kit two 70-200s, 300/2.8 and 500/4 all have this type of stabilization. Several of them I've used for over 10 years and don't recall ever turning stabilization off manually. But, again, the 70-200s tend to be handheld and the 300/2.8 and 500/4 tend to be used with the "loose gimbal" method mentioned above... in both cases leaving plenty to keep stabilization busy and out of trouble.

I agree that in-lens stabilization can be helpful stabilizing the viewfinder images...

But I disagree about it slowing focus... While it's possible that happens occasionally, a lot of the time I think stabilization actually helps focus speed and accuracy (i.e., it helps the camera "see" with its AF sensors, the same way it helps me see the subject in the viewfinder).

Stabilization does take a moment to occur... a very brief moment... and taking a shot too quickly might not allow time for it to "do its thing"... but focus and stabilization occur concurrently and most of the time by the time focus is achieved, so is stabilization... Still, as much as possible I start both focus and stabilization a bit before I take the shot, tracking moving subjects, for example.

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Sep 3, 2014 10:51:05   #
camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.
 
OddJobber wrote:
I'm now convinced that prime lenses are generally better than zooms in terms of image quality and am looking at what primes would be useful for me. Looking at shorter focal length zooms (50-100mm or so), there's sometimes (usually) a considerable cost difference with or without vibration reduction.

I keep reading that at shorter focal lengths, 35, 50, 58, 60mm, etc., VR is not so important, but it seems to me that if I move the lens 1 percent of the frame height or width it shouldn't matter what the focal length is, the amount of blur would be the same.

Having consumed, by my guesstimation, 9000 gallons of beer during my life, my hand is not as steady as before, therefore this is an important consideration for me.

Input and advice please?
I'm now convinced that prime lenses are generally ... (show quote)


If you do not have steady hands, VR or a tripod should solve the problem.
I do not tend to agree with you that zooms are of inferior optical quality compared to primes. Professional zooms are as sharp as primes at the same focal lenght.
I know of many professionals that use only zooms for most of their work and John Shaw comes to mind.

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Sep 3, 2014 11:05:06   #
bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA
 
OddJobber wrote:
But Juanita, real Oregonians don't use tripods. LOL Seriously I hand hold 95 percent of the time.
But they sure have great beer. Try the "Bend Ale Trail".

http://www.visitbend.com/Bend_Oregon_Activities_Recreation/Bend-Ale-Trail/

Took me 5 days and I got a rubber beer cup for a completion prize.

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Sep 3, 2014 11:08:07   #
roy4711 Loc: Spring Valley IL.
 
Before having a beer its not the camera that has camera shake it's me. :roll:

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Sep 3, 2014 11:34:00   #
OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR
 
bsprague wrote:
Took me 5 days and I got a rubber beer cup for a completion prize.

You mean the BPA free, unbreakable, customizable, microwave/dishwasher/freezer safe, 100% food-grade silicone Silipint? What a great idea and information we can all benefit from! :thumbup:

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Sep 3, 2014 11:36:14   #
bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA
 
OddJobber wrote:
You mean the BPA free, unbreakable, customizable, microwave/dishwasher/freezer safe, 100% food-grade silicone Silipint? What a great idea and information we can all benefit from! :thumbup:

Well, if you drop it on the patio, you don't have to worry about broken glass when your dear dog licks it up.

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Sep 3, 2014 11:45:06   #
Delderby Loc: Derby UK
 
camerapapi wrote:
If you do not have steady hands, VR or a tripod should solve the problem.
I do not tend to agree with you that zooms are of inferior optical quality compared to primes. Professional zooms are as sharp as primes at the same focal lenght.
I know of many professionals that use only zooms for most of their work and John Shaw comes to mind.


"Professional zooms are as sharp as primes at the same focal lenght." ???
You surprise me - no! you astound me - so why are primes still made? Pros go for convenience too. They (often) don't always have time to change lenses. :)

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Sep 3, 2014 12:14:55   #
Mark7829 Loc: Calfornia
 
Delderby wrote:
"Professional zooms are as sharp as primes at the same focal lenght." ???
You surprise me - no! you astound me - so why are primes still made? Pros go for convenience too. They (often) don't always have time to change lenses. :)


Primes are lighter and smaller...and likely the reason many consider them and why they are still being made..

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Sep 3, 2014 12:25:48   #
Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga
 
If you look at ratings at DxO mark, the zooms don't show up till go go past several pages of fixed focal length lenses. Plus, a zoom is optimized for a certain focal length. They can't perform the same at all focal lengths... That said, the IQ on the "Pro" series is good enough that the difference is negligible in real world shooting ( a reason I don't don't put much stock in rating sites)

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Sep 3, 2014 12:57:47   #
bewerner
 
Consider this: VR stops your movement but doesn't stop your subject's movement. I used to think VR was critical all the time. My revisionist thinking is that, unless you want some blur intentionally in your subject (movement blur for effect), you're better off using a fast enough shutter speed. Primes are perfect for this since they tend to be fast lenses.

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Sep 3, 2014 13:54:31   #
RJNaylor Loc: Delmar, New York
 
I am a fan of vibration reduction since it helps me. But not all systems are equal ... My second generation Nikon 18-200 is much better than the first generation -- you can feel the VR kick in and see the image settle. My Sigma 105 2.8 VR not so much but still better than nothing. I also think VR helps at lower magnification, for example, I am much better with my Sigma 17-50 2.8 OS than I was with the Nikon DX equivalent with no OS -- so I sent back the Nikon before getting the Sigma. Result, many more sharp photos. Of course, with a fast enough SS we don't need the OS but at some point we do and i would rather keep the ISO down.
In terms of primes though, most of them don't have OS, too bad. Even if we only get one or two stops of effective control at lower magnifications that let's us shoot one or two stops lower ISO.

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Sep 3, 2014 19:28:12   #
roy4711 Loc: Spring Valley IL.
 
pecohen wrote:
This relates to a question that occurred to me recently. Thinking back to the time when we bought rolls of film for our cameras and there was no such thing as image stabilization, my rule of thumb was that I could hand-hold my camera and a 50mm lens if taking a 1/60 second exposure. I might get away with 1/30 of a second provided I could hold the camera especially steady.

Now, with image stabilization and zoom lenses I don't seem to have any rule of thumb to go by. I get a little nervous when taking hand-held shots of more than 1/30 second but I've had quite decent results for much longer exposures.

Does anyone have a good rule-of-thumb to suggest?
This relates to a question that occurred to me rec... (show quote)

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Sep 3, 2014 19:28:55   #
roy4711 Loc: Spring Valley IL.
 
Drink a beer. :lol:

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Sep 3, 2014 22:14:25   #
Wild Life Loc: Sunny Southern California
 
OddJobber wrote:
Wow. I didn't expect so much input overnight. I'll study this a bit (and look for a paper towel tube) and get back here in a bit. Good stuff to think about.

In the meantime, if I wasn't so thickheaded I would realize that I can set a zoom lens at 85mm or so and experiment with and without VR. Duh. :)


Is that with or without a beer?

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