Capture48 Loc: Arizona

Knowing nothing about coins I would have suggested one of those white photo cube a thread and a small piece of wax. Hang from top at the angle you want and use a macro lens. The white thread won't show up. If it does easy to clone out.

Of course if the coins are very valuable I realize they may not want you to put even a tiny piece of wax on the coin.

izzi Loc: Fort Walton Beach, Florida

I have tried this but the gold is like a mirror and reflects everything, so I got the trees in my yard.

izzi Loc: Fort Walton Beach, Florida

I tried snapping them outside but got the reflection of the trees... the gold coins are like a mirror. Its frustrating.

izzi Loc: Fort Walton Beach, Florida

The coins are replicas, but still, they pick up everything from finger prints to everything in the background. Plus I want them to look shiny.

izzi Loc: Fort Walton Beach, Florida

I'm still trying to get the hang of conversing on a forum with several people at the same time.

tonyjag Loc: Bolton, Ma.

I concur. I have always gotten better pictures of coins by scanning.

merrill01

I am a numismatist (which is a fancy name for a coin collector) and have photographed coins of all types for years. My suggestion is to photograph them in the sun and hand hold the camera. This gives you more opportunity for different angles. A velvet background works well. I also have had good luck using close up lenses. These can be found in a set of four for less than 20 bucks. If you do not have a DSLR, I have had good luck just using my point and shoot camera. This set up works well for a small to medium amount of coins. Hope this helps. --- Mark ---

Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA

izzi,

One of the best ways to keep in context with your messages, and those who post to you is to use the "Quote Reply" link at the bottom of the message.

Michael G

wrogers Loc: Kew Gardens, NY

Once again, pop up light box

CAM1017 Loc: Chiloquin, Oregon

I normally use a Ring flash mounted on a Macro lens for this type of situation. Here are two examples. Close up work like this is fun. :thumbup:

5 dollar gold coin

(Download)

5 dollar gold coin

(Download)

PalePictures Loc: Traveling

These are well done! I collect(buy and sell) rare coins. These are as good as it gets as far as lighting. My coins are graded (encased in plastic holders from NGC and PCGS). These coins provide special challenges in getting good photos.

If you go to Heritage Auctions and look at there coins it will give you an idea of the type of quality you should be gunning for.

Russ Elkins

hughburden Loc: UK

Coins are very difficult to photograph if you are directly overhead; 3/4 views less so and are standard table top/still life fare.
For the overhead 'square on' shot use a view camera with a longish lens (to get far enough away to give lighting, mirrors, reflectors some space). By using the 'shift' your camera is no longer above the coin and thus is not reflected in it. One catch - too much 'shift' will result in a slight distorted view. You will have rack out your view camera a lot to get a good enough magnification- ideally greater than life size.
Additional work may be needed in photoshop - a method I have used for Royal Mint work is to photograph two images and comp them in photoshop. The reason for two or more images taken (using a rock solid static camera) is that if you use gold or silver mirrors/reflectors or maybe a negative reflector (black) to highlight/enhance one detail there is often a bad reflection elsewhere. Use one image for the each 'good 'bit.
As for lighting - small lampheads on 'bendy' arms are ideal as are lots of clamps, supports and gaffer tape.
Getting a great coin shot is fiddley, frustrating and time consuming.
I may have 'overegged' the reply as your client may not need you to go to such expensive and time consuming effort.
If you only have a DSLR and a Macro lens I guess you will have to accept some kind of black spot reflection of your lens somewhere on the coin (on highly polished mirror surfaced coins ). I would try slightly tilting the coin away from the camera and correct the distortion back to a perfect circle in photoshop. Maybe comping several images as above.
I have spent many a frustrating day tweaking and moving bits and pieces of mirror, reflector and lights where each mm of movement can make a huge difference.
Good luck :-)

CSI Dave Loc: Arizona

Put them in the freezer, take them out just before shooting, while there's still a little condensation to cut the glare. I learned this from my grandfather some 30 years ago. He was a professional photographer, his clients said they were the best coin photos they'd seen.

saxkiwi Loc: New Zealand

You need a tiny light tent.. cheap as chips you can fire flash through it or natural light. Pretty much only your lens pokes through the hole of the front of the light tent. For less than $20 from Hong kong on ebay.

christofras Loc: Gold Coast Australia

I have not tried doing this, but what about applying a thin coating of vasoline, or light machine oil