Taken with a Tamron SP Di LD IF200 -500mm 1:5-6.3
#1 1.0 sec exp F6.3 ISO250 focal length 500 =782
#2 all same except 2.0 sec exp
My question ? is the shadow a reflection on the lens. At a faster shutter is it not visible unless I turn light up high with Picasa.
All are as shot.
Question 2 ? what setting would have worked better
Canon 7d camera
Just after sunset 1
Just after sunset 2
Erv
Loc: Medina Ohio
Hi jdeanb, You are way over exposing these. You have to think of the moon as being lighted by the sun. Here are a few from last month I think.
First one was taken in the evening before the sun set.
ISO-200, SS-1/640,F16 EV-3 Nikon 28-300
The second one was at night
ISO-200, SS-1/500. F11, EV-2 Nikon 300 2,8 1.4TC
Forgot to add if you hit the down load button you can veiw a bigger picture.
Erv
jdeanb wrote:
Taken with a Tamron SP Di LD IF200 -500mm 1:5-6.3
#1 1.0 sec exp F6.3 ISO250 focal length 500 =782
#2 all same except 2.0 sec exp
My question ? is the shadow a reflection on the lens. At a faster shutter is it not visible unless I turn light up high with Picasa.
All are as shot.
Question 2 ? what setting would have worked better
Canon 7d camera
Erv wrote:
Hi jdeanb, You are way over exposing these. You have to think of the moon as being lighted by the sun. Here are a few from last month I think.
First one was taken in the evening before the sun set.
ISO-200, SS-1/640,F16 EV-3 Nikon 28-300
The second one was at night
ISO-200, SS-1/500. F11, EV-2 Nikon 300 2,8 1.4TC
Forgot to add if you hit the down load button you can veiw a bigger picture.
Erv
jdeanb wrote:
Taken with a Tamron SP Di LD IF200 -500mm 1:5-6.3
#1 1.0 sec exp F6.3 ISO250 focal length 500 =782
#2 all same except 2.0 sec exp
My question ? is the shadow a reflection on the lens. At a faster shutter is it not visible unless I turn light up high with Picasa.
All are as shot.
Question 2 ? what setting would have worked better
Canon 7d camera
Hi jdeanb, You are way over exposing these. You ha... (
show quote)
yes They are over exposed but what I was wanting was exposed to where you can see the dark part of the moon also . I took several shots with setting simular to the setting that you suggested and I got was just the lighted part.. Are there a way to achive this without over exposing the lighted part. I thank you for the info. And for stopping and looking thanks !
Erv
Loc: Medina Ohio
That is going to be a tough one. If you can get a shoot as early as you can with a little of of the Sun going down, maybe. I have never tried that. If the sky is clear tomorrow I might just try it. But i don't think you can over power the Sun hitting it. You might try a ND filter if you have one.
Erv
This link probably has everything you could ever want to know about shooting the moon (the one up in the sky, not your britches!)
http://www.calphoto.com/moon.htm
First I want to thank you for your help. Just love this site as there are so many people that wants to help guys like me. was into film cameras years ago with an Canon AE 1. then was in business so had no time for photos. Now here I am 30 years later with digital and I love it but after 30 years the old brain has forgot a lot of the old. Like teaching old dog a new trick. But have learned many things just by reading on this site. If you try to get the dark of the moon please post your results . Thanks again ! James
jdeanb,
You could set your 7D on either "P," "Tv," or "Av" and follow the manual for Exposure Compensation or Bracketing, on pages 104 and 105. Then look to see the settings chosen by the camera.
I'm like you....I like to see the bright side of the moon but to also see the whole outline with its dark side just simply adds an awesome mysterious wonder to it all!
I'm just now getting into photography and only have a Canon SX40 superzoom bridge camera. Here are a couple of moon shots I took using it....and there is no post-processing done and the camera was hand-held.
5 pm at Fort DeSoto, near St. Petersburg FL
Taken from my backyard, St. Petersburg FL
don't forget that when the moon is up during the day it is possible to "play" and get some pictures then also . Maybe not as good detail but still you can play .
BuckeyeBilly wrote:
jdeanb,
You could set your 7D on either "P," "Tv," or "Av" and follow the manual for Exposure Compensation or Bracketing, on pages 104 and 105. Then look to see the settings chosen by the camera.
I'm like you....I like to see the bright side of the moon but to also see the whole outline with its dark side just simply adds an awesome mysterious wonder to it all!
I'm just now getting into photography and only have a Canon SX40 superzoom bridge camera. Here are a couple of moon shots I took using it....and there is no post-processing done and the camera was hand-held.
jdeanb, br You could set your 7D on either "P... (
show quote)
Nice shots but what I am wanting is to show the dark part also. Think it would add a great dimension. Just like a new prospective to a old model that has been shot millions time all about the same. Thank you for your input food for thought.
THANKS FOR THE INFO, I"VE TROUBLE ALSO
The reason I mentioned using your "auto" modes and bracketing is so that you can see what over- and under- exposing the shots would take. This is what might allow the full circle (dark side) of the moon to show up. As it is, your photos are very close to getting what you want so just keep trying the settings, going up and down by one or two stops until you get it.
Thank you and yes you are right. I can get the dark side but not without blowing out the lighted side. Did some research and found that it suggested a .5 to 1 second shudder speed . I think I tried all type of shudder speed from 1/6 up to 6 sec. I started getting what I want about 1.5 sec but then the lighted side is blown out. Another problem is that over 1 sec there is enough movement of the moon that the movement shows up also. Going to play some more and if you find a way would appreciate knowing what you find. Again Thanks
The bright crescent of moon reflected sunlight is far brighter than the shadowed part the eye can just barely differentiate, the camera can not. So, the answer to your question is, no there is no setting to capture both.
However, from a tripod make several exposures (manual, not auto) slow to capture shadowed moonscape and faster for the bright. Then use HDR processing if you have it, if not overlay the best of both and use the eraser tool of the overexposed one. Such editing can be done faster than I can tell you.
Shoot 26.01.2012 handheld in full manual mode with Canon SX220HS-14x zoom + 2x DTC:
ISO 400 f5.6 1/100
very nice, do not miss Venus this coming June
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