light meter
Mar 5, 2014 16:13:50 #
amehta
Loc: Boston
MS. DONNA wrote:
they pic doesn't look bad, but I will try to shoot in manual. its tricky when the bird decides to fly so i choose to shoot in shuttter priority so i can stop the action of the wings but thanks for the advice I will manual a shot
When you shoot manual, you are still setting the shutter speed.
The light meter and camera's exposure meters are both tools. If you understand what they tell you, what they don't tell you, and when they will "fail", either will meet your need. If you want to mimic the information from the light meter, get a 18% gray card, put it on the ground, meter off that, and set that as your exposure.
EDIT: This has to be done in manual exposure mode (including manually setting the ISO).
Thanks, BullMoose.
Mar 5, 2014 16:16:17 #
amehta wrote:
When you shoot manual, you are still setting the shutter speed.
The light meter and camera's exposure meters are both tools. If you understand what they tell you, what they don't tell you, and when they will "fail", either will meet your need. If you want to mimic the information from the light meter, get a 18% gray card, put it on the ground, meter off that, and set that as your exposure.
The light meter and camera's exposure meters are both tools. If you understand what they tell you, what they don't tell you, and when they will "fail", either will meet your need. If you want to mimic the information from the light meter, get a 18% gray card, put it on the ground, meter off that, and set that as your exposure.
Ok, thanks that is much cheaper
Mar 5, 2014 16:21:24 #
roy4711
Loc: Spring Valley IL.
Where do you get a meter like that? I am looking for a simple light meter to use. Thank You. ;-)
Mar 5, 2014 16:23:10 #
roy4711 wrote:
Where do you get a meter like that? I am looking for a simple light meter to use. Thank You. ;-)
a gray card?
Mar 5, 2014 16:25:04 #
Mar 5, 2014 16:31:00 #
MS. DONNA wrote:
Ok, thanks that is much cheaper
Please understand that if you do meter from a grey card, or from the grass, or from your blue jean leg (another version of a grey card), you'll need to be in manual mode for that metering to do anything at all. If you're in any of the other modes, whether it be aperture or shutter priority, and you focus on your subject (the bird in flight in this case), the meter will change the camera settings to what it sees and thinks is best.
Mar 5, 2014 16:32:14 #
BullMoose wrote:
Please understand that if you do meter from a grey card, or from the grass, or from your blue jean leg (another version of a grey card), you'll need to be in manual mode for that metering to do anything at all. If you're in any of the other modes, whether it be aperture or shutter priority, and you focus on your subject (the bird in flight in this case), the meter will change the camera settings to what it sees and thinks is best.
ok thank you
Mar 6, 2014 06:10:08 #
DaveHam
Loc: Reading UK
We use light meters all the time in studio or on inside shoots where we may need to use flash or artificial lighting.
Outside I prefer to rely on centre weighted in camera metering particularly for subjects like wildlife where the subject may not be static. If it is static I use the in camera metering, check the histogram and work from there.
Outside I prefer to rely on centre weighted in camera metering particularly for subjects like wildlife where the subject may not be static. If it is static I use the in camera metering, check the histogram and work from there.
Mar 6, 2014 06:56:12 #
Donna, using a light meter may help, depending on what you are attempting.
Why do you think you need a light meter?
Why do you think you need a light meter?
Mar 6, 2014 06:57:11 #
I use mine all the time to meter the studio lights when doing portraits, to get the ratio of the lights correct..
Mar 6, 2014 07:09:34 #
Gray cards and incident meters are great when you have control over the lighting. But in scenes with lots of contrast or wide dynamic range, where the brightest element in the scene is 10 stops (or more) brighter than the darkest area, the cards/incident meters will only give you proper exposure for the mid-tones, and likely to underexpose darkest shadows, and overexpose brightest highlights.
For these situations it's probably best to use the in camera meter set to matrix, which are usually designed to provide the best exposure while keeping overexposure to a minimum. Looking at the histogram or preview image will help, quickly identifying the areas that are overexposed. From there you can either reduce your ISO, use a smaller aperture setting or a faster shutter speed.
Recording raw files rather than JPG images will provide greater latitude, more dynamic range and more options when post processing, especially with images where a lot of the detail is at the exposure extremes.
I have two light meters, but only use one when determining exposure for flash, in studio. Otherwise, camera metering is more than adequate. Over time you will be able evaluate lighting and be able to adjust exposure on the fly.
For these situations it's probably best to use the in camera meter set to matrix, which are usually designed to provide the best exposure while keeping overexposure to a minimum. Looking at the histogram or preview image will help, quickly identifying the areas that are overexposed. From there you can either reduce your ISO, use a smaller aperture setting or a faster shutter speed.
Recording raw files rather than JPG images will provide greater latitude, more dynamic range and more options when post processing, especially with images where a lot of the detail is at the exposure extremes.
I have two light meters, but only use one when determining exposure for flash, in studio. Otherwise, camera metering is more than adequate. Over time you will be able evaluate lighting and be able to adjust exposure on the fly.
Mar 6, 2014 08:27:11 #
mikegreenwald
Loc: Illinois
I have and occasionally use a light meter, generally for landscapes where the incident light function is appropriate. That said, the in camera meters work very well most of the time. If in doubt bracket. If seriously in doubt, bracket widely. If the situation contains widely varied lighting, use HDR.
Mar 6, 2014 08:28:08 #
mikegreenwald
Loc: Illinois
I have and occasionally use a light meter, generally for landscapes where the incident light function is appropriate. That said, the in camera meters work very well most of the time. If in doubt bracket. If seriously in doubt, bracket widely. If the situation contains widely varied lighting, use HDR.
Mar 6, 2014 08:43:26 #
DaveHam
Loc: Reading UK
Not sure if anyone else has noticed this but metering on live view and through the lens in at least some Nikons produces different results. I've seen this on the D4 and the D800, not sure that it is the same across the rest of the Nikon range.
Matrix metering through the lens generally produces a lower exposure than using live view. When I asked Nikon about this they told me that the live view uses a different area for the metering hence the different exposure. Strikes me as odd; why have the same metering produce different results according to the way you look at it?
Matrix metering involves a pre-set algorithm in the camera which clearly works differently in live view. So I for one will stick to using centre weighted or spot and make my own mind up how I want to meter.
Matrix metering through the lens generally produces a lower exposure than using live view. When I asked Nikon about this they told me that the live view uses a different area for the metering hence the different exposure. Strikes me as odd; why have the same metering produce different results according to the way you look at it?
Matrix metering involves a pre-set algorithm in the camera which clearly works differently in live view. So I for one will stick to using centre weighted or spot and make my own mind up how I want to meter.
Mar 6, 2014 08:44:15 #
mikegreenwald wrote:
Thanks for the tip, but I dont have HDR softwareI have and occasionally use a light meter, generally for landscapes where the incident light function is appropriate. That said, the in camera meters work very well most of the time. If in doubt bracket. If seriously in doubt, bracket widely. If the situation contains widely varied lighting, use HDR.
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