Nikon D5200 Liveview for bracketed exposures: I have been using a D5200 for about 6 months now and like to do bracketed exposures. I post process them in Photomatix and Lightroom 5...

Mr PC Loc: Austin, TX

I have been using a D5200 for about 6 months now and like to do bracketed exposures. I post process them in Photomatix and Lightroom 5 into HDR compositions. I use a tripod and a wireless remote when doing night time city skyline 3 shot RAW exposures and still get a little bit of vibration, possible from the movement of the mirror, even though I wait a second or two between each shot. Would putting the camera into Liveview eliminate this? Also, doesn't working in Liveview change which algorithm is used for autofocus? Finally, would turning VR and autofocus off on my lens also help eliminate vibration? Thanks for any ideas...

RE Loc: California

Hi Mr PC welcome to UHH! I am not a major skill photographer but I do use a similar camera as you (d5100) and I do take a lot of night photos. I too use a tripod with a remote, I have found for me that taking i off of autofocus helps tremendously. When taking photo's of the night sky I will sometimes set it up on the timer which allows for 999 photos to be taken at whatever interval you so choose (cannot use remote in this setup). I look forward to seeing some of you photo's!

alycrom Loc: Aberdeen Scotland

Hi
I also use a D5200 and have been told that if you are using a tripod it is essential to turn the vr off. This is because the way the vr works it actually causes vibration as it constantly looks for vibration when there is none. oh i thought i could explain this, perhaps someone else will be more succinct but yes you should turn vr off to improve sharpness when using a tripod.

Mr PC wrote:

I have been using a D5200 for about 6 months now a... (show quote)

MtnMan Loc: ID

Mr PC wrote:

I have been using a D5200 for about 6 months now a... (show quote)

You should turn off VR when using on a tripod. That is likely the source of your problem.

Liveview changes the way either exposure or focus is done but that is unlikely the problem as it will be the same for each shot.

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

I think your question has been satisfactorily answered with the response to turn off the VR. If you want to continue to work with such photography, your next step would be to get a body that will allow a mirror lock to eliminate the vibration from that action. Also an investment in the sturdiest tripod you can afford would be helpful. I have a friend that has just changed his approach to HDR and think you might find this useful as well. His camera will allow him to do a series of shots -- he can set his camera for a one-stop difference and five frames, push a button and the camera will take five shots automatically from -2 to +2. This is how he used to do his HDR. Now he has switched to live-view with the histogram showing in an upper corner. He will now take shots (using a cabled remote)until the white line of the histogram runs from a spike on the left to a spike on the right. This might take two, three, five shots -- whatever it takes to fill the histogram. Hope some of this helps.

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200789248166473&set=a.1241484210164.30448.1621082839&type=1

The above link will take you a shot done by the photographer I described. Copy and paste the link in your web-browser.

Mr PC Loc: Austin, TX

Thanks to you and everyone else here at the forum that has been so friendly and ready to help. I'll try all of these tips out. I just knew I was a few simple settings away! And, I'll try to pay-it-forward to anyone out there that I can help...

Mr PC Loc: Austin, TX

Thanks so much. I have an external bulb timer and am looking forward to getting proficient with that too. I'd like to do star trails, but will have to travel outside of Austin to get away from light pollution. I do travel a lot to Africa and have a blog that details my mission work and photo safaris. It can be found by searching for the phrase "notes from the mission field". I captured about two thirds of the wildlife and nature photos for my team on the last trip as I experiments with a 55-300 Nikkor lens. Hope you like them.

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

Mr PC wrote:

Thanks so much. I have an external bulb timer and... (show quote)

Before your next trip, you might think about trading in the 55-300 for the 28-300. This lens has gotten rave reviews and I use it constantly. I know it is a full-frame lens, but all the better because you will be using the "sweet-spot" of the lens and avoiding the outer edges where most distortion occurs anyway. With the crop frame you will have a lens with a range of 42 to 450 in full frame terms. The main reason I think you would do well with this lens is due to it's close focus capability. It focuses down to either 9 or 11 inches at all focal lengths! At 300mm you could fill a whole frame with a single flower. This way, you could shoot some of the interesting floral and insect life of Africa.
Best wishes on your next trip.

MtnMan Loc: ID

Bridges wrote:

Before your next trip, you might think about tradi... (show quote)

A much better choice for the D5200 is the 18-300. It is made for DX cameras. The lower end wide angle means you'll almost never want to take it off.

It is a bit less expensive than the 28-300, and last spring Nikon had a sale on it for $300 off. I doubt they'll do that again but you might keep an eye out.

Mr PC Loc: Austin, TX

MtnMan wrote:

A much better choice for the D5200 is the 18-300. It is made for DX cameras. The lower end wide angle means you'll almost never want to take it off.

It is a bit less expensive than the 28-300, and last spring Nikon had a sale on it for $300 off. I doubt they'll do that again but you might keep an eye out.

Thanks, what should I expect to pay? I moved up from the kit 55-200 to the 55-300 from a fellow photog for $265 and thought I did all right at that price, almost all of the American 5 year warranty was left on it.

MtnMan Loc: ID

Mr PC wrote:

Thanks, what should I expect to pay? I moved up from the kit 55-200 to the 55-300 from a fellow photog for $265 and thought I did all right at that price, almost all of the American 5 year warranty was left on it.

Seems very good to me. New list is like $595.

Morning Star Loc: West coast, North of the 49th N.

Turning the VR off when camera is on a tripod, has been adequately dealt with here.

One other, related caution:
Do not turn the camera off or remove the lens while vibration reduction is in effect.
See page 238 of the Reference Manual for this camera.

MtnMan Loc: ID

Morning Star wrote:

Turning the VR off when camera is on a tripod, has been adequately dealt with here.

One other, related caution:
Do not turn the camera off or remove the lens while vibration reduction is in effect.
See page 238 of the Reference Manual for this camera.

Yes, the lens manuals reinforce not taking off the lens but it really isn't a big deal. First, it does NOT mean when you have the VR switch turned on. It means when VR is actually working; i.e. you have the camera on and shutter half way depressed so it actively focusing. Even then it doesn't break anything. It is just a caution that the lens might rattle till you get it back on and working.

I think is a bad idea to take the lens off with the camera turned on anyway.

But I haven't seen anything about not turning the camera off with VR on. It would take some interesting movement to do that but I don't think it would cause a problem.

Mr PC Loc: Austin, TX

MtnMan wrote:

Yes, the lens manuals reinforce not taking off the... (show quote)