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Jan 5, 2013 16:03:05   #
Robertm Loc: San Juan Mtns of Colorado
 
New yo UHH. Wondering has anyone had problems with sharpness using a Canon 100-400 F-4.5-5.6 "L" Is lens. Trying to shoot Bald Eagles @ 400mm,ISO of800and have not been able to get a tack sharp shot. HELP !!!

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Jan 5, 2013 16:09:47   #
birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania
 
Robertm wrote:
New yo UHH. Wondering has anyone had problems with sharpness using a Canon 100-400 F-4.5-5.6 "L" Is lens. Trying to shoot Bald Eagles @ 400mm,ISO of800and have not been able to get a tack sharp shot. HELP !!!


What camera body are you using and what settings ie f/stop, shutter speed, and any cutom settings on the camera body?

Post an example and make sure you "store original" so we can look at it closely.

I own that lens, so I know some of its quirks.

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Jan 5, 2013 16:30:29   #
gtwhogger Loc: Lawton
 
Need more info? are you taking photos in flight? are you using(Nikon term)-"Single Point AF"? Or "Auto Area" focus(full frame area sensor of focus) etc...

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Jan 5, 2013 16:31:43   #
Robertm Loc: San Juan Mtns of Colorado
 
Using Canon 5D MK-2. F stop any where from F-14 to F-40. Camera selecting shutter speed

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Jan 5, 2013 16:32:51   #
Robertm Loc: San Juan Mtns of Colorado
 
Subject stationary,sitting in tree

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Jan 5, 2013 16:33:07   #
Robertm Loc: San Juan Mtns of Colorado
 
Subject stationary,sitting in tree

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Jan 5, 2013 16:48:17   #
birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania
 
Robertm wrote:
Subject stationary,sitting in tree


OK, here are a few things to check or try:

1. For a stationary bird, use a single focus point and place it on the eye of the bird.

2. You are shooting in Av, aperture priority. The sweet spot on that lens is ~ f/8-11. this will also get you a higher shutter speed. In direct sun at ISO 800, you should be at 1/1600 to 1/2000. That will eliminate camera shake.

3. Use Image Stabilization set to #1.

4. If these things don't work, look to see if anything else in the frame is in focus. If so, test that camera/lens combination for front or back focusing. I have had that problem with that lens.

5. If nothing in the frame is pin sharp, and there is no blur from camera shake or subject movement, then suspect that the lens itself is faulty. Some people find their 100-400's are a little soft, most do not. I have seen some very sharp images taken with that lens so I know it is capable. It may require Canon to recalibrate the lens to bring it up to specs.

One last thing: You state you have taken pictures up to f/40 which is n ot available on the 100-400, nor is f/4.0 if that was a typo. Are you using a teleconverter? If so, that may be the cause of loss of IQ...especially if you are using a 2X converter.

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Jan 5, 2013 17:41:45   #
steve6 Loc: Hull MA.
 
that lens is spot on ,now you need a great body and a great tripod with also a gimbal head. if that doesnt do it have the lens looked at .the body and lens do have to be in syc, thats factory.

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Jan 5, 2013 17:53:16   #
Festina Lente Loc: Florida & Missouri
 
Hello BirdPix:
Have you tried using Reikan's FoCal software? I'm cautiously impressed so far. See recent (today's) post here on UHH.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-87558-1.html
I'd really appreciate your opinion as my Canon 100-400 really came to life after calibrating it with my LensAlign jig, and the FoCal made it even more accurate. Pretty impressive (so far...)

birdpix wrote:
Robertm wrote:
Subject stationary,sitting in tree


OK, here are a few things to check or try:

1. For a stationary bird, use a single focus point and place it on the eye of the bird.

2. You are shooting in Av, aperture priority. The sweet spot on that lens is ~ f/8-11. this will also get you a higher shutter speed. In direct sun at ISO 800, you should be at 1/1600 to 1/2000. That will eliminate camera shake.

3. Use Image Stabilization set to #1.

4. If these things don't work, look to see if anything else in the frame is in focus. If so, test that camera/lens combination for front or back focusing. I have had that problem with that lens.

5. If nothing in the frame is pin sharp, and there is no blur from camera shake or subject movement, then suspect that the lens itself is faulty. Some people find their 100-400's are a little soft, most do not. I have seen some very sharp images taken with that lens so I know it is capable. It may require Canon to recalibrate the lens to bring it up to specs.

One last thing: You state you have taken pictures up to f/40 which is n ot available on the 100-400, nor is f/4.0 if that was a typo. Are you using a teleconverter? If so, that may be the cause of loss of IQ...especially if you are using a 2X converter.
quote=Robertm Subject stationary,sitting in tree ... (show quote)

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Jan 5, 2013 18:00:40   #
treadwl Loc: South Florida
 
OK, so I'm a Nikon user and have NO experience with your lens and camera. However, sharpness or the lack thereof may be due to many things. First is just what do you accept as being sharp--different folks, different strokes. The higher the ISO to softer the picture will be. I know camera companies brag about camera and high ISO, but lower ISO produces cleaner (sharper) results.

Long lens technique is another BIG issue. When I got my first really long lens it took me several months to really get consistent quality shots.

Use a tripod & use a gimbal type head. Don't press the shutter release, roll your finger over it (you will be surprised how much this can matter)

But please post a photo so we can see what your exact issues are.

Larry

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Jan 5, 2013 18:04:19   #
colo43 Loc: Eastern Plains of Colorado
 
Robertm wrote:
New yo UHH. Wondering has anyone had problems with sharpness using a Canon 100-400 F-4.5-5.6 "L" Is lens. Trying to shoot Bald Eagles @ 400mm,ISO of800and have not been able to get a tack sharp shot. HELP !!!


i do have the lens, and not had any issues with Sharpness.

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Jan 5, 2013 18:07:02   #
Dixiegirl Loc: Alabama gulf coast
 
Try using TV mode. It's the only mode I use when photographing birds. You really need a fairly high shutter speed when shooting birds to get the clarity you want. Check out my post "High ISO Birds" for examples.
Robertm wrote:
Using Canon 5D MK-2. F stop any where from F-14 to F-40. Camera selecting shutter speed

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Jan 5, 2013 18:19:01   #
Robertm Loc: San Juan Mtns of Colorado
 
here is an example of my problem



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Jan 5, 2013 18:25:09   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
Festina Lente wrote:
Hello BirdPix:
Have you tried using Reikan's FoCal software? I'm cautiously impressed so far. See recent (today's) post here on UHH.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-87558-1.html
I'd really appreciate your opinion as my Canon 100-400 really came to life after calibrating it with my LensAlign jig, and the FoCal made it even more accurate. Pretty impressive (so far...)

birdpix wrote:
Robertm wrote:
Subject stationary,sitting in tree


OK, here are a few things to check or try:

1. For a stationary bird, use a single focus point and place it on the eye of the bird.

2. You are shooting in Av, aperture priority. The sweet spot on that lens is ~ f/8-11. this will also get you a higher shutter speed. In direct sun at ISO 800, you should be at 1/1600 to 1/2000. That will eliminate camera shake.

3. Use Image Stabilization set to #1.

4. If these things don't work, look to see if anything else in the frame is in focus. If so, test that camera/lens combination for front or back focusing. I have had that problem with that lens.

5. If nothing in the frame is pin sharp, and there is no blur from camera shake or subject movement, then suspect that the lens itself is faulty. Some people find their 100-400's are a little soft, most do not. I have seen some very sharp images taken with that lens so I know it is capable. It may require Canon to recalibrate the lens to bring it up to specs.

One last thing: You state you have taken pictures up to f/40 which is n ot available on the 100-400, nor is f/4.0 if that was a typo. Are you using a teleconverter? If so, that may be the cause of loss of IQ...especially if you are using a 2X converter.
quote=Robertm Subject stationary,sitting in tree ... (show quote)
Hello BirdPix: br Have you tried using Reikan's Fo... (show quote)


RobertM, lots of good info here. I use your exact combo and am usually happy with the sharpness. Admittedly the 5Dll is not the greatest at focusing, but your birds aren't moving.
I find if you have to crop or lighting is poor, I am usually not happy. I think you need to be as close as possible to avoid cropping to be sharp.
Do any adjustments you can do and may be better. I'm usually wide open to keep my speed up, so way out of the sweet spot, but if I'm close and have good light, I'm sharp. Keep in mind, in relative terms it is an inexpensive lens. I used to have a 500, f4 and had the same exact issues. There is no substitute for getting on your belly and slithering or getting in a blind and waiting for that eagle to land on you.
Shoot a $5 bill at 50 feet and see if it's not sharp at 100%. I'll bet it is.
Have you used other similar lenses and thought you got better results? Or is this your first longer lens. Try to get a hold of a 400 prime and see if you are happier. I suggest get closer.

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Jan 5, 2013 20:35:26   #
treadwl Loc: South Florida
 
Looking at the example you supply I think I see part of the problem. I know the photo is small, and I'm looking at it on a computer as a second generation but you re shooting on a bright well lit day. The eagles have white heads and the heads look to be a bit overexposed. Long lenses need to be spot on to get the max sharpness possible. Also, I would bet you cropped this a fair amount. These things will greatly hurt sharpness. As sharpshooter noted, there is no substitute for getting dirty to sneak up on the birds, to get the shot you want.

Also, why were you shooting at ISO 800 on a bright day like the one shown in the photo?

Good Luck.

Larry

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