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Forced Perspective Photography
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Mar 15, 2023 21:31:09   #
mrchunko
 
I would like to tinker a bit with forced perspective photography which as most of you know creates an optical illusion.

The tutorials i have watched suggest a long depth of field (at least a 22) and a wide angle setting of approximately 35mm or less.

When I have tried this, I notice the red-dot focal points on my camera (Canon EOS t5i) focus on the object in the very front and leave the background and everything in it blurred. If I focus on the object further in the frame, the front is obscured. Any suggestions? If this method is going to produce results, everything has to be in focus.

Thanks!
Mike

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Mar 15, 2023 21:36:48   #
lukevaliant Loc: gloucester city,n. j.
 
maybe closer to subject will help?

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Mar 15, 2023 21:44:42   #
User ID
 
lukevaliant wrote:
maybe closer to subject will help?

Or more likely make the problem worse.

The real solution is a tilt lens. Lensbaby would be the cheapest. A Canon lens would be big $$. OTOH, I dont know if you can put a Lensbaby on a Rebel :-(

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If youre already to quit SLRs you could get a tilt adapter, but those are for EVF bodies using SLR lenses.

24mm T/S for SLRs. Under $700 new.
24mm T/S for SLRs. Under $700 new....
(Download)

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Mar 15, 2023 21:58:27   #
Cany143 Loc: SE Utah
 
I've no idea what tutorials you've seen, but the near/far focus problems you've described sounds as though --and is what I'd strongly suggest-- you'd be well advised to look into focus stacking.

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Mar 15, 2023 22:09:54   #
User ID
 
Cany143 wrote:
I've no idea what tutorials you've seen, but the near/far focus problems you've described sounds as though --and is what I'd strongly suggest-- you'd be well advised to look into focus stacking.

Thaz probably completely manual on the Rebel ... but it does avoid buying a lens !

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Mar 16, 2023 00:39:01   #
Grahame Loc: Fiji
 
mrchunko wrote:
I would like to tinker a bit with forced perspective photography which as most of you know creates an optical illusion.

The tutorials i have watched suggest a long depth of field (at least a 22) and a wide angle setting of approximately 35mm or less.

When I have tried this, I notice the red-dot focal points on my camera (Canon EOS t5i) focus on the object in the very front and leave the background and everything in it blurred. If I focus on the object further in the frame, the front is obscured. Any suggestions? If this method is going to produce results, everything has to be in focus.

Thanks!
Mike
I would like to tinker a bit with forced perspecti... (show quote)

What you are experiencing is the limitations of DoF (Depth of Field). The DoF is the 'depth' within the scene that will appear acceptably sharp when the pic is viewed from a certain distance.

I suggest you study and play around with a DoF calculator where you can glean such information as;

At focal length 35mm, aperture f/22, camera to subject distance (where you focus on) 10ft, acceptable sharpness within the depth of the scene will be from 4.8ft in front of the camera to infinity.

https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof

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Mar 16, 2023 05:49:20   #
Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis
 
Cany143 wrote:
I've no idea what tutorials you've seen, but the near/far focus problems you've described sounds as though --and is what I'd strongly suggest-- you'd be well advised to look into focus stacking.



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Mar 16, 2023 05:50:59   #
Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis
 
User ID wrote:
Thaz probably completely manual on the Rebel ... but it does avoid buying a lens !


Bingo
But manual is no problem for me !

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Mar 16, 2023 07:41:07   #
dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida
 
"forced perspective photography which as most of you know creates an optical illusion."
When we photograph two side by side tall buildings they tilt toward each other and change shape at the top. Even non-Adobe editing programs, not blessed by God and Mystics, have very effective "prospective tools," even in 3D... across and depth.

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Mar 16, 2023 08:06:09   #
Jimmy T Loc: Virginia
 
dpullum wrote:
"forced perspective photography which as most of you know creates an optical illusion."
When we photograph two side by side tall buildings they tilt toward each other and change shape at the top. Even non-Adobe editing programs, not blessed by God and Mystics, have very effective "prospective tools," even in 3D... across and depth.



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Mar 16, 2023 09:21:16   #
MrPhotog
 
Years ago you could buy a +1 close up lens which was not all there. It looked like only half of a lens (or filter). The other half was air.

Putting this in front of a prime lens allowed you to have half the image in focus at 1 meter, while the other half was in focus at infinity, with the lens wide open. Stopping down the aperture increased the depth of field. You could, of course, focus at a hyperfocal distance, stop down the lens, and have a large area in focus at a distance, and the foreground would be in focus at slightly less than 1 meter.

There was a distinct boundary area in the middle of the frame which became more obvious as the lens was stopped down ( you were getting a shadow from the edge of the 1/2 lens) but the pictures I saw using this setup were often composed with this effect in mind.

The nearest I have seen to this recently is half-frame reading glasses.

https://www.readingglasses.com/products/eurospec-39/?color=Brown

The tops of these eyeglasses are not high enough for a person to look through.
These are meant for a person to either look through ( by looking down ), or look over ( by looking up)

As an experiment you might try finding similar reading glasses at a discount or ‘dollar’ store, breaking the lenses out of the frames, and holding them in front of your camera lens. These reading glasses are sold in various ‘strengths’ or diopter ratings, which refer to their focusing distance.

You can calculate your focus distance in millimeters by dividing 1000 by the diopter number, so a +1 reader lens is in focus at 1000 mm while a +2 is in focus at 500 mm ( about 19”) You can find reading glasses going up to +3 in increments of .25 diopter.

Many of the cheap reading glasses are made with plastic lenses. You can use a power sander to reshape the edges to give you something other than a straight shadow line or blurred area across the middle of your pictures. These are cheap, so experimenting is too.

I’ve used this for a wedding ‘special effect’ where the bridal announcement or invitation would be in the foreground, ( and in focus thanks to the half-lens) while the ceremony or a portrait of the couple would be on the top half of the picture. The trick was to focus on the far image conventionally, then move the near image until it came into focus.

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Mar 16, 2023 09:34:46   #
dbrugger25 Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
When my Canon cameras focus, the lens is wide open so you don't see the depth if field through the viewfinder. You will see it when you look at the photos after taken.

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Mar 16, 2023 10:44:00   #
BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA
 
mrchunko wrote:
I would like to tinker a bit with forced perspective photography which as most of you know creates an optical illusion.

The tutorials i have watched suggest a long depth of field (at least a 22) and a wide angle setting of approximately 35mm or less.

When I have tried this, I notice the red-dot focal points on my camera (Canon EOS t5i) focus on the object in the very front and leave the background and everything in it blurred. If I focus on the object further in the frame, the front is obscured. Any suggestions? If this method is going to produce results, everything has to be in focus.

Thanks!
Mike
I would like to tinker a bit with forced perspecti... (show quote)


It sounds like you have a bit of experimentation in your future.

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Mar 16, 2023 11:25:23   #
StanMac Loc: Tennessee
 
mrchunko wrote:
I would like to tinker a bit with forced perspective photography which as most of you know creates an optical illusion.

The tutorials i have watched suggest a long depth of field (at least a 22) and a wide angle setting of approximately 35mm or less.

When I have tried this, I notice the red-dot focal points on my camera (Canon EOS t5i) focus on the object in the very front and leave the background and everything in it blurred. If I focus on the object further in the frame, the front is obscured. Any suggestions? If this method is going to produce results, everything has to be in focus.

Thanks!
Mike
I would like to tinker a bit with forced perspecti... (show quote)


You will have to shoot manual mode or aperture priority to maintain that small aperture to get the depth of field you want. Look up and learn about hyperfocal distance calculations and see if that can be applied to your shooting setup or staging. Also, look into getting a tilt/shift lens. There are some affordable tilt/shift lenses now available.

Stan

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Mar 16, 2023 11:56:08   #
Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore
 
User ID wrote:
Thaz probably completely manual on the Rebel ... but it does avoid buying a lens !


English translation
Thaz = that's
Forgive USER ID English wasn't taught to him being home schooled in his mother's basement. Only milk and cookies taught there

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