I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use more than any other lens. I have a light cube I shoot into for small objects. I have a Giottos MH 1000 ball head with a Nikon D810 & a D3 but every time I go to compose the shot it drifts out of composition just enough that it ruins the shot and fixed heads are worse, and I'm talking about a 30-degree angle. I have to guestamate where it is going to settle in the composition multiple times before I get the shot where I want it. I know the more expensive the ball head the less drift I get but I can't afford a $500.00 head. and I quit trying with the D3 because it is a tank. Any suggestions for it to stop drifting?
deerpark243 wrote:
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use more than any other lens. I have a light cube I shoot into for small objects. I have a Giottos MH 1000 ball head with a Nikon D810 & a D3 but every time I go to compose the shot it drifts out of composition just enough that it ruins the shot and fixed heads are worse, and I'm talking about a 30-degree angle. I have to guestamate where it is going to settle in the composition multiple times before I get the shot where I want it. I know the more expensive the ball head the less drift I get but I can't afford a $500.00 head. and I quit trying with the D3 because it is a tank. Any suggestions for it to stop drifting?
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use ... (
show quote)
I ran into the same problem due to the forward weight of the lens. I made a make shift lens support. Just a piece of wood or any other material to support the front of the lens after you compose the shot. I know that it sounds hokey but it did the trick.
Ron
fhayes
Loc: Madison, Tennessee
The adjusters on your head must be exhausted. The d810 and lens combined weigh in at less than 4 pounds. I would try turning the camera so it sits at 180 degrees off of the normal design. If this solves the issue you could get years of use!
I recently bought this head-
https://www.adorama.com/3pshpg.html and it's currently $50.00. It supports up to 20 pounds and allows for continuous adjustment by set screws! I like it more than the comparable Manfrotto head I bought many years ago.
My ball head tripod has two bolts to tighten it in. These are set at 90 degrees to one another. I’ve never had issues, even with old macro lenses from the 70’s, one in particular over 3 pounds. However, using only one bolt results in rotation around the axis of contact. Don’t know your set up, but my tripod is a knock off brand and I got it for less than 50 bucks.
deerpark243 wrote:
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use more than any other lens. I have a light cube I shoot into for small objects. I have a Giottos MH 1000 ball head with a Nikon D810 & a D3 but every time I go to compose the shot it drifts out of composition just enough that it ruins the shot and fixed heads are worse, and I'm talking about a 30-degree angle. I have to guestamate where it is going to settle in the composition multiple times before I get the shot where I want it. I know the more expensive the ball head the less drift I get but I can't afford a $500.00 head. and I quit trying with the D3 because it is a tank. Any suggestions for it to stop drifting?
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use ... (
show quote)
I used a 3 way geared head. My Manfrotto is rated to hold 4kilos/8.8lbs, the current price is just under $200 direct from Manfrotto. They do make much heavier geared heads.
The gears don't slip like heads that depend on friction to hold the position.
https://www.manfrotto.com/us-en/x-pro-3-way-tripod-head-with-retractable-levers-mhxpro-3w/
Look for a used copy of one of the beefier ball heads. My markins m20 can support a d810 way down the tracks on a full sized bellows at a rakish angle. Can be found used for $200. Also works well with super teles. Definitely go for arca swiss connectors.
deerpark243 wrote:
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use more than any other lens. I have a light cube I shoot into for small objects. I have a Giottos MH 1000 ball head with a Nikon D810 & a D3 but every time I go to compose the shot it drifts out of composition just enough that it ruins the shot and fixed heads are worse, and I'm talking about a 30-degree angle. I have to guestamate where it is going to settle in the composition multiple times before I get the shot where I want it. I know the more expensive the ball head the less drift I get but I can't afford a $500.00 head. and I quit trying with the D3 because it is a tank. Any suggestions for it to stop drifting?
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use ... (
show quote)
Get yourself a Benro Gear drive tripod head.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1410665-REG/benro_gd3wh_3_way_geared_head.htmlI did for astro using a D850 and a 70-200, and discovered it works incredibly well for macro shooting.
I bought an old abused rock solid FOBA ball head $75. Holds my 810 with 200-500 mm easily. I had to patient to fing good equipment
deerpark243 wrote:
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use more than any other lens. I have a light cube I shoot into for small objects. I have a Giottos MH 1000 ball head with a Nikon D810 & a D3 but every time I go to compose the shot it drifts out of composition just enough that it ruins the shot and fixed heads are worse, and I'm talking about a 30-degree angle. I have to guestamate where it is going to settle in the composition multiple times before I get the shot where I want it. I know the more expensive the ball head the less drift I get but I can't afford a $500.00 head. and I quit trying with the D3 because it is a tank. Any suggestions for it to stop drifting?
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use ... (
show quote)
One option is to purchase a cheap rail, you can then alter the centre of gravity of camera/lens to the ballhead. In addition, a piece of packing can be used between lens end and the rail.
Now you see why people recommend the $500 RRS ball heads, BH-40 and / or BH-55. As you save for this equipment, consider locking your current BH and adjusting the tripod leg(s) instead of the BH as a possible positioning technique.
deerpark243 wrote:
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use more than any other lens. I have a light cube I shoot into for small objects. I have a Giottos MH 1000 ball head with a Nikon D810 & a D3 but every time I go to compose the shot it drifts out of composition just enough that it ruins the shot and fixed heads are worse, and I'm talking about a 30-degree angle. I have to guestamate where it is going to settle in the composition multiple times before I get the shot where I want it. I know the more expensive the ball head the less drift I get but I can't afford a $500.00 head. and I quit trying with the D3 because it is a tank. Any suggestions for it to stop drifting?
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use ... (
show quote)
One of the concerns is keeping the camera/lens in BALANCE above the pivot point of the head. To facilitate this, you will need a long (4-6 inch) A/S plate on your camera and an A/S receiver type head so you can adjust for the balance. Otherwise, you will need a bigger/better ball head 8-(
.
imagemeister wrote:
One of the concerns is keeping the camera/lens in BALANCE above the pivot point of the head. To facilitate this, you will need a long (4-6 inch) A/S plate on your camera and an A/S receiver type head so you can adjust for the balance. Otherwise, you will need a bigger/better ball head 8-(
.
I wouldn't know where to begin putting an A/S plate on my camera, never heard of it. And, yeah, a good ball head is expensive.
Thanks for the info.
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