Walking (linear) panoramas...
Feb 15, 2021 03:45:14 #
This is about creating a panorama while moving the camera laterally to a wall, cliff, whatever.
I made this as an answer to a question posted in the main UHH channel.
- Camera lens choice. You must avoid wide angles because of the lens distortion. A normal lens or equivalent to a 50 mm works best for a single row linear panorama.
- Camera orientation. I found it best to use portrait.
- Camera be settings full manual Aperture, Speed and ISO. The WB must also be fixed.
- Set the visual horizon feature of your camera on, if you have this feature.
Warning:
Weather conditions will affect your images, especially if you have fast moving clouds. For me overcast seems to be better, uniform, soft lighting, no shadow.
Process...
- I would recommend a monopod to ensure that each capture is at the same height.
- If you are doing a single row, lock the camera in place. You may have to walk to the area in your linear panorama in order to make sure you do not truncate the top of the bottom of your panorama. If so, you will need to walk back a bit to prevent mutilating an innocent.... This will determine your shooting distance.
- Walk to one end of the area you want to capture.
- Try to keep the monopod vertical as close as you can. Use the virtual horizon display of your camera if available.
- Start shooting OUTSIDE the panorama one shot is sufficient.
- In order to be consistent check the lens capture limit - left if you shoot from the right or right is you shoot from the left-. This will be the place where you will take the next capture.
- If you are shooting a multi row shoot up/down for the first captures then down/up for the second and establish a similar pattern as you shoot. You can use Down/up then up/down but keep the pattern.
- Make sure you are keeping the same distance from the subject. Basically follow a parallel line.
Issues to be aware of:
Parallax, Parallax, Parallax, Parallax...
- Anything in the forefront and close to your subject will be victimized, meaning they will be truncated, sometime just hang in there. The solution is to go back and take a shot of each area object - from the same distance and focused on the subject, not the forefront object you want to recover then create a composite.
- Object closest to the camera can become an issue (I had a trunk in front of my shooting spot). The best solution it to shoot from the correct side STRAIGHT ON, do not try to compensate. Correct = right if you come from the right, left if from the left. All your capture points then shift right of left, depending on your decision.
If the sun comes out or hide, either wait for the calamity to pass or try again and pray that you do not have to redo too many times. Waiting is the best option. You may consider adjusting the exposure, but this choice will allow for strong shadows to appear (cloudy shoot selection) or disappear (sunny shoot selection).
Sample made over a decade ago
Other ops, please correct my English where needed and add/correct information or instructions as per your experience.
I made this as an answer to a question posted in the main UHH channel.
- Camera lens choice. You must avoid wide angles because of the lens distortion. A normal lens or equivalent to a 50 mm works best for a single row linear panorama.
- Camera orientation. I found it best to use portrait.
- Camera be settings full manual Aperture, Speed and ISO. The WB must also be fixed.
- Set the visual horizon feature of your camera on, if you have this feature.
Warning:
Weather conditions will affect your images, especially if you have fast moving clouds. For me overcast seems to be better, uniform, soft lighting, no shadow.
Process...
- I would recommend a monopod to ensure that each capture is at the same height.
- If you are doing a single row, lock the camera in place. You may have to walk to the area in your linear panorama in order to make sure you do not truncate the top of the bottom of your panorama. If so, you will need to walk back a bit to prevent mutilating an innocent.... This will determine your shooting distance.
- Walk to one end of the area you want to capture.
- Try to keep the monopod vertical as close as you can. Use the virtual horizon display of your camera if available.
- Start shooting OUTSIDE the panorama one shot is sufficient.
- In order to be consistent check the lens capture limit - left if you shoot from the right or right is you shoot from the left-. This will be the place where you will take the next capture.
- If you are shooting a multi row shoot up/down for the first captures then down/up for the second and establish a similar pattern as you shoot. You can use Down/up then up/down but keep the pattern.
- Make sure you are keeping the same distance from the subject. Basically follow a parallel line.
Issues to be aware of:
Parallax, Parallax, Parallax, Parallax...
- Anything in the forefront and close to your subject will be victimized, meaning they will be truncated, sometime just hang in there. The solution is to go back and take a shot of each area object - from the same distance and focused on the subject, not the forefront object you want to recover then create a composite.
- Object closest to the camera can become an issue (I had a trunk in front of my shooting spot). The best solution it to shoot from the correct side STRAIGHT ON, do not try to compensate. Correct = right if you come from the right, left if from the left. All your capture points then shift right of left, depending on your decision.
If the sun comes out or hide, either wait for the calamity to pass or try again and pray that you do not have to redo too many times. Waiting is the best option. You may consider adjusting the exposure, but this choice will allow for strong shadows to appear (cloudy shoot selection) or disappear (sunny shoot selection).
Sample made over a decade ago
Other ops, please correct my English where needed and add/correct information or instructions as per your experience.
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