ND FILTER VARIABLE OR FIXED FOR D850-TAMRON 24-70 G2
Jun 20, 2019 09:54:19 #
Hudsonwi
Loc: Wisconsin
boberic wrote:
Iknow it's just me. but I have a bias against " creamy" water, in that it doesnt look like water. I prefer a little detail in falls so a 1 or 2 nd filter is more than enough. BTW don't forget a really good tripod.And perhaps a gimbal head
I also don't like the over done creamy look. It is one of those things I have a strong dislike for just like over done HDR.
Jun 20, 2019 10:06:04 #
Kozan
Loc: Trenton Tennessee
boberic wrote:
Iknow it's just me. but I have a bias against " creamy" water, in that it doesnt look like water. I prefer a little detail in falls so a 1 or 2 nd filter is more than enough. BTW don't forget a really good tripod.And perhaps a gimbal head
Boberic, it's not just you! I, too, hate the silky smooth rendition of waterfalls. They look completely unnatural. Anything over 2-3 seconds exposure is enough.
By the way, you don't even need an ND filter to get the smooth look. Just take a burst of 6-10 images and combine in post.
Jun 20, 2019 10:12:09 #
Quality means a higher price (usually). I prefer variable ND. It is easier to turn it than unscrewing and screwing on another ND.
Jun 20, 2019 10:33:12 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
For photography, one or two or three fixed strength ND filters are your best option. When using ND for still photos you just need to fairly dramatically "shift" the exposure range and will still have plenty of adjustment with aperture, ISO and shutter speed. Usually two fixed strength filters such as a 3 stop and a 6 stop, which can be combined for 9 stop.... will handle all but the most extreme situations. High quality, multi-coated, fixed strength ND filters typically cost between $50 and $100 apiece, depending upon the size needed. Shop around the top brands.
For video, it might make more sense to get a Variable ND. There are fewer other exposure adjustments possible with video, so to shoot video with fixed NDs is likely to require many more different strengths. While fixed strength might still be the most ideal for image quality, it might not be practical to buy and carry a large number of them in a wide variety of strengths, for different effects under a broad range of conditions.
As noted, Variable ND are notorious for uneven effect.... particularly what's sometimes called an "iron cross" that appears as sort of an "X" in images. It's also not uncommon for Variable ND to add ugly tints to images. Variable ND also are expensive.... cheap Variable ND without multi-coating often cost around $150. Higher quality, multi-coated can cost as much as $400 or more. Even the best Variable ND aren't entirely free of "issues".
I agree that you may want a good tripod, too... But I don't see any need for a gimbal head with that camera and lens. In fact, it wouldn't even be possible to mount them on the typical "full size" gimbal, without additional accessories. That type of head is designed for use with lenses that have a tripod mounting collar... which your 24-70mm doesn't have. A standard ball head or a pan/tilt head would be a much better choice.
For video, it might make more sense to get a Variable ND. There are fewer other exposure adjustments possible with video, so to shoot video with fixed NDs is likely to require many more different strengths. While fixed strength might still be the most ideal for image quality, it might not be practical to buy and carry a large number of them in a wide variety of strengths, for different effects under a broad range of conditions.
As noted, Variable ND are notorious for uneven effect.... particularly what's sometimes called an "iron cross" that appears as sort of an "X" in images. It's also not uncommon for Variable ND to add ugly tints to images. Variable ND also are expensive.... cheap Variable ND without multi-coating often cost around $150. Higher quality, multi-coated can cost as much as $400 or more. Even the best Variable ND aren't entirely free of "issues".
I agree that you may want a good tripod, too... But I don't see any need for a gimbal head with that camera and lens. In fact, it wouldn't even be possible to mount them on the typical "full size" gimbal, without additional accessories. That type of head is designed for use with lenses that have a tripod mounting collar... which your 24-70mm doesn't have. A standard ball head or a pan/tilt head would be a much better choice.
Jun 20, 2019 10:41:03 #
Chucker2000 wrote:
I love this forum and hope you can assist with inf... (show quote)
You might have problems with the lens hood my Tamron 70-200 i cant get the hood on over my ND fader. Granted if i could i would still need to remove it to adjust the filter. The X effect if it occurs tends to be at high stops. You maybe able to get away with stacking e.g a 4 stop and a fader.
Jun 20, 2019 12:31:56 #
boberic wrote:
Iknow it's just me. but I have a bias against " creamy" water, in that it doesnt look like water. I prefer a little detail in falls so a 1 or 2 nd filter is more than enough. BTW don't forget a really good tripod.And perhaps a gimbal head
- not just you .....
Jun 20, 2019 13:03:41 #
jpgto
Loc: North East Tennessee
My $0.02. The Variable ND filter, ease, simplicity and small to carry. I have one, use it 'barely' but
when I do it serves it's purpose. The images taken using the filter I personally
am pleased with. Good luck, enjoy and have fun.
when I do it serves it's purpose. The images taken using the filter I personally
am pleased with. Good luck, enjoy and have fun.
Jun 20, 2019 13:24:14 #
rmalarz wrote:
I would stay away from the variable ND filters. They can produce an X pattern within the photograph. I was even advised to avoid Variable ND filters by an engineer at B+W when I called to inquire about purchasing one of theirs.
As for which brand, I've migrated to using B+W for all of my lenses.
--Bob
As for which brand, I've migrated to using B+W for all of my lenses.
--Bob
Ditto. Stay away from variable ND filters.
Jun 20, 2019 14:19:26 #
Use a variable ND filter. I have tried two different brands and you only get an "X" across your image if you exceed the range of the ND filter. The ND filters will rotate a full 360 degrees. However, watch your markings on the outer ring and you will not have a problem with an "X". I've used variable ND filters for years and learned about the "X" problem and never had a problem since then.
Jun 20, 2019 16:54:23 #
fehutch
Loc: gulfport, ms
Keep the UV on. Put the camera on a tripod and shoot at 1/10th of a second, adjusting f:stop and ISO as necessary to avoid overexposure. A lot simpler than fooling with filters and having to change them in an outdoor environment.
If 1/10 is too fast, go slower and “fire for effect” as they say. I found 1/10 and 1/2 sec at f:8, 11, and 16 provided useful results in the past. ISO varied by existing ambient light. Good luck.
If 1/10 is too fast, go slower and “fire for effect” as they say. I found 1/10 and 1/2 sec at f:8, 11, and 16 provided useful results in the past. ISO varied by existing ambient light. Good luck.
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